mmccurdy

I'm fairly new to towing, but I would really like to be able to tow a camper (Airstream) that weighs 3500lbs. dry, probably around 4300lbs. loaded. The second number exceeds the "recommended" tow rating by about 800lbs.

Further, I have replaced my factory tow hitch with one built in to a Body Armor bumper (this one). When I installed the bumper, I peeled off a sticker saying it was only for recovery purposes, though I've discussed that already on here. I've also installed a 3" lift and 35's.

My general questions are: am I out of my mind for trying this? Are there any actual legal/insurance implications for slightly exceeding the recommended tow rating? If so, is it possible to get a rig re-certified for a higher tow rating after modifying it accordingly?

I am willing to do any or all of the following, but I'd like some feedback from JK folks who tow a lot before just jumping in:

• Further suspension beefing (front HD coils? airbags for rear coils?)
• Re-gearing (should I go to 4.88 or 5.13 w/ 35's for towing?)
• Grinding off () the "recovery" hitch on the Body Armor bumper...
  ... and replacing it with a true "Class III" hitch? (are these available?)
  ... and replacing it with the factory 2" hitch, even though it's being called a Class II?
  ... and replacing it with something custom that I weld up?
• Further beefing the Body Armor hitch to convince myself it'll hold?
• Get rid of the Body Armor bumper entirely and find something that won't interfere with the hitch?
• Installing a brake controller and 7-pin connector (this is a no brainer)

Any and all feedback would be great... Thanks!

BigJerm

if you get in a wreck the insurance company could bust you for exceeding the tow limit and that cause you to loose control/ not slow down quick enough. As far the weight of towing. Its not so much the coils or hitch, its the weight of the trailver vs the vehicle

mmccurdy

I'm struggling with this one, because I've heard the same thing, but there are many counter examples out there:

Jeep Liberty
Curb Weight: 3898lbs.
Wheelbase: 104.3"
Tow Rating: 3500lbs. w/ 3.55:1 gears, 5000lbs. w/ 3.73:1 gears. (hmm...)

Nissan XTerra
Curb Weight: 4402lbs.
Wheelbase: 106.3"
Tow Rating: 5000lbs.

JK Unlimited
Curb Weight: 4075lbs.
Wheelbase: 116.0"
Tow Rating: 1000lbs. w/ 3.21:1 gears, 3500lbs. w/ 4.10:1 gears (hmm again...)

So my point here is that the 4dr. JK is nearly identical in size/weight to those other two vehicles, and I would think the JK's running gear is at least as stout as the Liberty (don't know too much about the XTerra). The one thing that seems to systematically have an effect on the tow rating is the gears, which leads me to assume that the 3500 lbs. cap is for performance and economy rather than safety.

I read an interview with Jeep engineering where they said something to the effect of "we felt that 3500lbs. was the right place to be for the JK in terms of capacity vs. performance."

So following this logic, sure, I'll take a hit in gas mileage for throwing 4.88 or 5.13 gears in there, but as far as safety is concerned, it doesn't seem like it would be a problem. I have found nothing but ambiguity on this topic from massive amounts of googling....

mmccurdy

Hrm.... this is a little worrisome. I do have a manual trans, not sure if that helps or hurts in this case. I wouldn't really expect it to be able to power up a hill in 6th, and I do a fair bit of downshifting even as-is.

The fact that you were hitting the redline even to maintain highway speeds would suggest that the engine may be just flat under-powered to handle it.... though again I would question how the Liberty w/ it's 3.7l V6 manages a 5000lb. rating...

ez__rider

Let's assume ample torque from the engine for these loads. I hear this trans is carry over... from TJ Rubicon and/or Unlimited? of course, we need to distinguish between Auto and Manual now.

Transmission design is most closely related to towing capacity. If yours is an auto, does it have a cooler inside, below, or in front of the radiator?

The trans and rear end are your 2 areas of concern: increasing load of the vehicle = more torque = more heat = NEED HEAVY DUTY.

35's and 4300 lbs is PUSHING IT!!!!

You can ignore this. Maybe it'll be ok. But that's a LOT of load. There's a reason people have V8's in their pickups for towing.

mrsig

The most I have towed is my 3000 lbs Bass boat and it was fine on the highway.

adaycj

I towed a 4500# trailer with my JK 4dr Rubi for a short distance (about 3 miles). You really are not "slightly" over you are way over. You would be exceeding the GVWR, the frontal area of the trailer, the weight of the trailer, and the tongue weight of the trailer. A WD hitch could help with the tongue weight, but you are still not going to be happy doing this.

My experience with a similar trailer tells me that the handling was a mess, the power was inadequate, and there was wind induced sway. I even have a few issues towing my 2000# pop up.

Insurance is the least of your worries. If you get in an accident and kill someone you could be charged with involuntary manslaughter. While unlikely, there are reported convictions for this type of stuff.

Sorry man, but it really is just a no-go. I hope you stay safe if you decide to try it.

JUSTIN01

I thought the tow rating was lower than that for the 3.21 gears.....I seem to remember mine being in the 2000's.....I'll have to check my manual.

seal20

This is like a guy with a 610tq Cummins asking if it's cool to tow 20K!!!!

DON'T DO IT!!!!

Geeper4x4

I would also say this is not a good idea. If you needed to move something on the farm from the back of the barn to a pad in the front maybe. If you intend to get out on the road I think this is asking for trouble.