bradsm87

I would like to run shocks with around 11.5" travel while maintaining stock bump stop height for maximum up-travel in both the front and rear on a JK 2-door. I want lots more up and down travel than factory, while lifting it as little as possible. I'll aim to find some springs for around 2" lift in the front and 1.5" in the rear with long open lengths to remain captive with big droop. While not relevant to the question, to save anybody asking, I plan to run 285/75R17 tyres on 17x8.5 5" backspace wheels and cut factory fenders.

I want to run the longer Bilstein 5160 shocks which are 15.9"/27.45" in the front and 16.1"/27.4" in the rear. I'd extend both the front and rear upper shock mounts up by 1.2", bringing the effective stock mount equivalent lengths down to 14.7"/26.25" front and 14.9"/26.2" rear, perfect for factory bump stop height and no front driveshaft issues at full droop either!

Has anybody considered or done this? It would be very easy to fabricate the mount modifications but what is directly above these areas (I don't own a JK yet)? The front looks like something plastic. Is it the fender or a liner inside the engine compartment? The rear is sheetmetal. What inside the vehicle is directly above the shock mount? Something that would be OK with a bump bashed into it?

I know there is an aftermarket bolt-on rear upper shock mount but I don't want to change the shock angle. I would prefer to go straight upwards.

Thanks in advance

karls10jk

You'd have to cut out the stock front shock tower and you could gain a little more clearance there. The rears could be done in a similar fashion but the tub is just about the mounts. Using the relocation brackets would probably be a better bet.

I'm not sure what your budget looks like but the metalcloak 6pak shocks tout more travel because they can compress and extend tighter than most shocks of similar extended/ collapsed measurements.

What you're looking to do isn't really the specialty of this forum, they're more bolt-on with the exception of a handful. Pirate4x4 is where you'll find more of the hacking and chopping to make things fit.

kjeeper10

Ive seen somebody cut the front upper shock tower away. Then use the MC 6 pack upper mounts to run a longer shock up front.

mhockey9090

Not true, we have several members here who can give you great advice. Below are the usernames and their build threads.

It can be done, but will require extensive medications and what you're willing to spend. Do all that work only to run 285s? This will still be a limiting factor in your off road capabilities when it comes clearance over obstacles.


Invest2m4

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-g...angles-312761/

Maertz

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...thread-294934/

Ringer

Ringer's Build up of JKarl

Dirtman (has the sticky thread on top of this part of the form)

The time has come.....TheDirtmans level 4 build...Ha!...ha!....ha!...cough!...cough!

karls10jk

Those are all great examples but with the exception of Dirtman, you'll often find those members making larger progress on other forums where the "build" is encouraged and you're in a community of people who build.

I agree that they're all creative in making unconventional things work but they run into the brick walls here of people who insist bolt-on is the only way and that a bolt-on kit will give you the same travel as a cut/ weld kit.

TheDirtman

I have been on a 2.5 year break on doing extreme mods due to no shop and being in a rental while building the new house and shop but we are finally moving next week and hopefully some new stuff will be happening with the rig.
I would agree with Karl that this is more of a "what lift" and bolt on forum where many are more interested in the bling and look vs wanting to actually learn about their jeep and suspensions.

bradsm87

From looking at it, I wouldn't consider the work extensive. I'd do the fab work myself so just some scrap metal and welding. Pretty much $0. Easy 1 day job tops, maybe more if I get fussy with the rear.

I'm talking 285/75, not 285/70. True 34" diameter, same as a lot of 35" advertised tyres. It's commonly known that there's no performance gain going wider, just more unsprung weight. The people that I'd travel with have far less capable vehicles so not much point going bigger than 34".

Very minimal lift with cut fenders is awesome for stability but usually comes at the cost of reduced travel. This mod would give me the travel, getting me best of both worlds.

mhockey9090

Having the ability and knowledge to fab this up definitely helps.

But theres nothing wrong with building your rig for what you're going to use it for, but only you would know that. I was just curious as to why you were only going to run 285s.

For me out here in the Sand Hollow area 37+ tires are beneficial due to the obstacles and rocks in the area.

TheDirtman

There is defiantly a performance gain in going wider in terms of stability. One thing for you to consider in running low bs wheels and skinny tires is the axle rotation while articulating with long travel shocks. This is something that most don't take into account and run into it most on the rear when running outboard shocks.

As for what you are describing about doing makes sense with the shocks and you would be looking at having 6.5-7" of up travel using a 2" lift and factory bump stops. I think the problem you are going to have is that you would be fully compressing the coils before you hit full bump with that much up travel. Coils like shocks have extended and compressed limits to them.

karls10jk

Dirtman- In regards to "axle rotation and using long travel shocks", are you referring to the tendency of the shocks to bend on the frame up front or losing the effective shock angle in the rear when the axle is rotated out of the resting position?