resharp001

Long story short for those that don’t already know……I replaced my factory shock mounts with ¼” Artec mounts. I previously used the Metalcloak relocation brackets bolted to the factory shock mounts to outboard the shocks so they wouldn’t hit my frame rail under flex. Now, when welding on the new brackets one would think the obvious solution is to just outboard them and eliminate the need for an additional bracket. Due to the gussets on my Rubi axle, the new brackets could only be outboarded about 3/8” or so, which is not enough to keep the shock body from hitting that frame rail. It really aggravates me.

I’ve decided to continue using the MC brackets, but since the Artec shock mounts are so much beefier than factory, the MC brackets won’t fit around them. I cut the inner side of the MC brackets off (the side that would be closest to the LCA), and am planning to weld them to the Artecs. I figure if I weld along the bottom of the inner side, across the bottom to the outer side, and then up the outerside, with a few welds on the ends where the brackets contact each other, that I should be fine in regards to strength. I will wallow out the hole of the MC brackets a bit (the hole is a little off due to the Artec thickness) allowing me to put a bolt with a spacer through the Artec shock mount as one would during a regular install, but this seems to be more superficial to me given the welds.

Does anyone have any thoughts or concerns as to doing this? Surely the welding would make that a rock solid mount right?

Pictures of the MC bracket after I cut the one side off, with red lines indicating where I'm planning on the welds.



On a side note, add this to the list of things that can be debated on the build a D30/44 vs. buy an aftermarket axle. I rationalized my build cost in a different thread, but for most people the cost of building a rubi 44 gets right on up there close to an aftermarket axle, and you still end up with a weaker axle. Every $50-$100 put in to a built axle adds up.

resharp001

Maybe I've asked a dumb question and it's just overkill to weld that much. I fitted the cut bracket up last night and now thinking I could probably get away welding only the red line in the pic below......essentially securing the one side which I cut off for it to fit. That would also make for easier removal should it ever need to come off in the future.

SPRSLO

I'd run the spacer through the old bracket still as prescribed by Artec. I think beyond that personally that a good weld along the inner vertical side, and touching horizontal edges of the new bracket on to the old would be plenty. You're removing the twist and bind from the bracket by rotating the shock parallel with the tires. Any force great enough to break the bracket would have to be a very severe frontal impact. Can you use the piece you cut off, drill a hole in it, and space the new bracket out a little further away to 1/4" more space?

resharp001

Yes, I plan on still using a spacer on the inside of the Artec bracket where the shock would normally mount. Bolt will run through the MC bracket and through the Artec bracket holding the spacer in place....not like I think the 1/4" Artec will compress on me, but may as well. I'll also secure the MC bracket with a bolt from the bottom (up through the Artec) as one would on the factory bracket. I am thinking now that a good single bead along the cut edge (red line in pic above) would be enough to secure the one side of the bracket.

This confused me. Are you suggesting I take the piece I cut off, and use it as a spacer between the MC bracket and Artec bracket....in essence outboarding the shock even further? The Artec bracket was outboarded maybe 3/8" from the factory location when welded on, so in total I’m probably outboarding ½” further than if you bolted that MC bracket up to a factory shock mount. That wasn't really the goal, but the current situation. Was originally hoping the Artecs could be outboarded enough on their own to not have to deal with the MC bracket again.

SPRSLO

Gotcha, that's where I got lost I suppose is you saying it wasn't outboarded enough already. Nevermind that part then, was just trying to think of how to get it out just a hair more.

resharp001

Watch, with my luck it will be a comedy of errors.....I will not be outboarded too far and cause some other issue!

SPRSLO

Break the stem off the top of the shock.

resharp001

You won't be laughing when it halts your progress on the trail LOL

SPRSLO

It'll be me that breaks I'm sure.

Trail Jeeps

I've stared at this a couple of times today trying to figure out what I would do. I'd fab up a plate and box in the other side and capture it with your bolt, that way it fully encapsulates the old mount and is fully boxed in (if I'm fully understanding your plan).

You're putting a lot of leverage on the Metalcloak shock mount, and while it's definitely strong enough for its intended purpose, I would do everything I could to help it out.