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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Modded Dana 30 vs Stock Dana 44

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Old 02-23-2010, 06:57 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by joneszj
This is the best thread i have found on this topic. Kudos, WOL. I have been banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how to run 37s effectively on my D30 while regearing and adding lockers. Here's what I now have come up with:

5.13s
ARB lockers
ARB stainless airlines
Cromo front axle shafts
Riddler covers
New driveshafts
I already have the Evo gussets and LCA skids on. Am I missing anything?

I don't see the point in sleeves for the wheeling I do, never do stupid jumps or anything crazy enough to bend an axle housing. I've only ever seen it happen in person once in my life.
Be extra careful on the skinny pedal. With this setup your week link may be your ring and pinion.
Old 02-23-2010, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Scooter Scott
I don't do any crazy jumps or anything stupid either....should I save my money on the sleeves if I am moving to 35s and 5.13s and ARB lockers? I have gussets to get installed but everyone is making me feel like that sleeves are useless for my setup.
if money is no object, sleeves aren't gonna hurt anything. they simply aren't "needed" as some would suggest. for your purposes, i would say save the money and invest it in things that will really help you
Old 02-23-2010, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Scooter Scott
Thanks WOL. I already own the sleeves...they are sitting in my living room. I am getting my gears done this weekend and was going to have all this done at once. The only thing I do not have is chromolly shafts. I think I might just run the stockers for right now...and if they break it's easier to justify to the woman that I need to buy new shafts as opposed to right now where they are still fine
that's always been the way i deal with most things - drive it till it breaks and then deal with it then
Old 02-23-2010, 07:49 AM
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Best thread in months, if I see another " need help picking suspension or tires" .......
Old 02-23-2010, 08:42 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by porters
WOL is right one the money. One thing I would add is when you are doing any axle mods keep the weak link principle in mind. If you beef up one part then sure that stronger part is less likely to break, but the next weakest part of the axle will break instead. One example would be a Built D30. If you put RCV shafts in and an ARB locker and regear to 5.38. The week link is the teeth on the R&P. Break a few teeth off the R&P and you have a problem that will be a bear to fix on the trail and expensive to repair when back to the shop. If your weak link is something easy to get to, cheap to replace, and easy to fix on the trail you are much better off.
I have chromo shafts, e-lockers and 5:13's on my D-30 and it has held up through some pretty tough trails for about 18 months. We had some snow and ice two weeks ago and guess what happened when I went from zero traction spinning on ice, to full grip in between two huge rocks? Yep, you called it. Shattered half the teeth on my R&P. Fortunately, I was able to drive home in 2WD.
Old 02-23-2010, 09:07 AM
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I was open. Would not have had a problem locked. Just couldn't resist playing on the ice...

I'd like to upgrade but I can't afford 60's right now. What can I do to strengthen the R&P?
Old 02-23-2010, 11:54 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JoeBlob
I have chromo shafts, e-lockers and 5:13's on my D-30 and it has held up through some pretty tough trails for about 18 months. We had some snow and ice two weeks ago and guess what happened when I went from zero traction spinning on ice, to full grip in between two huge rocks? Yep, you called it. Shattered half the teeth on my R&P. Fortunately, I was able to drive home in 2WD.
Dude, that bites!

But its good news if you end up with a D60.

Last edited by porters; 02-23-2010 at 03:10 PM.
Old 02-23-2010, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooter Scott
Get a bigger axle
X2. I was stuck in a snow bank this weekend and did the same thing. Spun until it slightly hit dirt and bang! Not only did I spin off ANOTHER chromoly axle I lost a tooth on the ring gear as well and I noticed a buncha the others are cracked. I readily admit I am no finesse driver. No where I go will backing off the skinny save my sorry ass much less that pos D-30. D-60's for me. I'd be halfway there if I didn't waste so much $ building that damned useless D-30. Anyway mall crawling for me for a while.
Old 02-23-2010, 03:14 PM
  #29  
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More stuff to keep in mind if your considering a D60. D60s are typically wider than stock D30 or D44s. Some D60s also have a different bolt pattern as well. If you have a D60 up front that is wider and a different bolt pattern than the rear you may have to compensate with wheel spacers on the rear that convert bolt patterns and make up for the extra width on the front.
Old 02-23-2010, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by porters
More stuff to keep in mind if your considering a D60. D60s are typically wider than stock D30 or D44s. Some D60s also have a different bolt pattern as well. If you have a D60 up front that is wider and a different bolt pattern than the rear you may have to compensate with wheel spacers on the rear that convert bolt patterns and make up for the extra width on the front.
Talking to Dynatrac this morning about my "issues" and ya their 60 is wider by I think 3.5 inches. 68.5 wms to wms. That means new drag link and tie rod while your at it, not to mention wheel adapters or new rims. Pricey hobby we have discovered here...


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