I'm looking into replacement tie rods. I'm leaning toward the steer smarts yeti. I like the no flop design. I have a synergy drag link that is seriously beefy and has given no problems but it "flops" down with has always bothered me...it actually makes slight contact with my factory tie rod. My question is does anyone have the yeti in combination with the synergy drag link? I'm wondering if there will be any clearance issues. I could go with the synergy and get the misalignment boots that will limit the movement i suppose. If I went that route, the synergy would be roughly $60 more. Any thoughts?

 

Have you looked at something more diy like the ruff stuff tie rod? "No flop" sounds like fantastic marketing but I can't say I ever noticed one way or the other with my stock links.

 

I don't know the specifics as I don't have the yeti tie rod but had a friend recently returned his due to a very loose fit on the tapered ends (it should be a tight interference fit).

You are going to get a lot of differing opinions here but add Fusion 4x4's steering to your list to consider. Lots of people here are running it and are very happy. Last tie rod you'll ever buy.

 

I have the yeti drag link and tie rod and they are exceptionally stout.
I'm curious about the loose tapered end as mine are a tight fit.

 

Is he the one with Reid knuckles ? SteerSmarts/Power&sons supplies OEM including jeep.

 

A few companies now are building less forward/backward misalignment into the tie rod ends including SS, MC, TF. Synergy/RS use spacers to prevent flop in their joints.

 

Ah yes good call. I had forgotten about that. Although it WAS the yeti tie rod that was specifically for Reid knuckles. If people have had a good experience with yeti, then by all means, go for it. This was just an odd situation that caused my friend to question their quality and I know the company was looking into the issue.

 

Which wad odd because SteerSmarts rep Ron Is a big fan of the Reid knuckles. I believe it had to do with the stud length and contacting the drag link.

Edit it was the DL stud hitting the tie rod forging.

Screen shot BF rig

 

This is becoming a bit of hearsay but there were two separate issues. There was a concern about the stud length but that wasn't the cause of the loose interference. He could have ground down the stud to fix that issue, but the concern still remained about the second part of that.

 

I did not hear about that. But what if the stud bottoming out prevented the taper from seating ? Or was it with both sides ?