Mirror relocation brackets help needed (rugged ridge)
01-18-2010, 08:39 PM
#21
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Drivers side:
It warmed up today. Off to the spray wash and back home a couple of blocks into the (non-heated) garage.
I already knew what to do so I thought "this will only take a few minutes.." and actually it did..about all of fifteen.
Removed connecting bolt from mirror head to support arm. Grab mirror and "gently twist/push/pull"..it's moving..more...it's moving..more..it's SNAP
out...
Factory arm off. Wipe area of water. Filler plate in..lined up..tighten top-bottom-top-bottom-top. Good. Windshield frame screws out. Wipe area of water. New arm on..lined up..tighten top-bottom-top-bottom-top. Good. Looks good. Now to go figure out wtf to do with my broken mirror
Here's the rub..
The mirrors housings are plastic. The support post is metal. The factory arm housing is plastic. The factory arm itself is metal. When removing the mirror ONLY GRAB AT THE VERY BASE OF THE HOUSING WHERE THE ARM CONNECTS TO THE MIRROR HEAD. USE A BREAK FREE SOLVENT OF SOME TYPE!!..It still may not help. I held the base ONLY as I was pulling up and it was giving. I didn't grab the solvent this time because I wanted to see if my D side was as loose as others on here have stated theirs were. It sure seemed like it. I can tell you now that the 'give' was the plastic. There are three tabs (connection points) inside the mirror head plastic housing. The shaft (this is starting to sound totally gay..) is metal. Like the movie title says..somethings gotta give. IF I had used lube (see I told you it was sounding gay) on my shaft..er..uh..the mirror head shaft..it might have given way at that point. Now I'm minus one mirror. I MIGHT be able to order the housing and take this one apart to repair it..
DAMN IT! At least it could've broke while out wheeling so I could have a cool story instead of.."Yeah I break stuff in my garage".
Now that I look at it..I'm thinking this: The hole in the arm for the screw to secure the head to the arm is NOT threaded (makes sense based on earlier reports of having the screw half out and tapping up on the mirror to get it out without it 'flying off'). I wonder if a longer screw would work..undo factory screw..insert longgggg screw and tap on the screw ONLY to push mirror up and out of arm. That way you don't have to hit the mirror housing (plastic as mentioned) and risk breaking it (like I did).
pics:
It warmed up today. Off to the spray wash and back home a couple of blocks into the (non-heated) garage.
I already knew what to do so I thought "this will only take a few minutes.." and actually it did..about all of fifteen.
Removed connecting bolt from mirror head to support arm. Grab mirror and "gently twist/push/pull"..it's moving..more...it's moving..more..it's SNAP
out... Factory arm off. Wipe area of water. Filler plate in..lined up..tighten top-bottom-top-bottom-top. Good. Windshield frame screws out. Wipe area of water. New arm on..lined up..tighten top-bottom-top-bottom-top. Good. Looks good. Now to go figure out wtf to do with my broken mirror
Here's the rub..
The mirrors housings are plastic. The support post is metal. The factory arm housing is plastic. The factory arm itself is metal. When removing the mirror ONLY GRAB AT THE VERY BASE OF THE HOUSING WHERE THE ARM CONNECTS TO THE MIRROR HEAD. USE A BREAK FREE SOLVENT OF SOME TYPE!!..It still may not help. I held the base ONLY as I was pulling up and it was giving. I didn't grab the solvent this time because I wanted to see if my D side was as loose as others on here have stated theirs were. It sure seemed like it. I can tell you now that the 'give' was the plastic. There are three tabs (connection points) inside the mirror head plastic housing. The shaft (this is starting to sound totally gay..) is metal. Like the movie title says..somethings gotta give. IF I had used lube (see I told you it was sounding gay) on my shaft..er..uh..the mirror head shaft..it might have given way at that point. Now I'm minus one mirror. I MIGHT be able to order the housing and take this one apart to repair it..
DAMN IT! At least it could've broke while out wheeling so I could have a cool story instead of.."Yeah I break stuff in my garage".Now that I look at it..I'm thinking this: The hole in the arm for the screw to secure the head to the arm is NOT threaded (makes sense based on earlier reports of having the screw half out and tapping up on the mirror to get it out without it 'flying off'). I wonder if a longer screw would work..undo factory screw..insert longgggg screw and tap on the screw ONLY to push mirror up and out of arm. That way you don't have to hit the mirror housing (plastic as mentioned) and risk breaking it (like I did).
pics:
Last edited by SUNPRO; 01-18-2010 at 11:56 PM.
01-19-2010, 04:46 AM
#22
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To solve the visibility issue, I used a round 2" adjustable spot mirror on the lower outside corner of the passenger mirror. Once you get it stuck on, you spin the mirror to adjust it so you can see down the lane next to you. I was amazed at how well it worked going down the road at highway speed. It gives a clear and stable veiw all the way back in that lane. I'll see if I can take a pic later and post it to demonstrate.
The ones I bought were less than $6 a pair. Just Google "Adjustable Convex Blind Spot Mirrors" and you'll get several hits.
LR
The ones I bought were less than $6 a pair. Just Google "Adjustable Convex Blind Spot Mirrors" and you'll get several hits.
LR
01-19-2010, 05:01 AM
#23
It looks to me like you could repair that.
There is a plastic weld product that I think would support the weight. It's a 2 part bumper repair product, and is black. I used it to install the second set of lights on my quadlight bumper.
There are also several heavy duty epoxies that may work.
I'd glue everything inside real well, then put it together and duct tape the outside tightly for a couple of days to let it fully set before removing duct tape and reinstalling.
Even if it broke again down the road, it would put off having to buy a new mirror, maybe even give you time to find a used one.
EDIT: when you duct tape it, use something between the glass and tape...at least 1" thick.
it will protect your glass, and will press to assembly further in to keep it tight for the curing process.
There is a plastic weld product that I think would support the weight. It's a 2 part bumper repair product, and is black. I used it to install the second set of lights on my quadlight bumper.
There are also several heavy duty epoxies that may work.
I'd glue everything inside real well, then put it together and duct tape the outside tightly for a couple of days to let it fully set before removing duct tape and reinstalling.
Even if it broke again down the road, it would put off having to buy a new mirror, maybe even give you time to find a used one.
EDIT: when you duct tape it, use something between the glass and tape...at least 1" thick.
it will protect your glass, and will press to assembly further in to keep it tight for the curing process.
Last edited by AlmightyCrash; 01-19-2010 at 05:21 AM.
01-19-2010, 05:09 AM
#24
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I leave my drivers side RR relo brackets on all the time.
I switch my passenger back on forth when I switch tops.
I found that the easiest way, as stated by others, backing the screw out about 1/2 way and then a few gentle taps wth a block of wood and hammer.
Screw keeps mirror from falling out when it breaks free.
Then a touch of grease, and they seem to come out a little bit easier after
a winter of salt and other crap.
I switch my passenger back on forth when I switch tops.
I found that the easiest way, as stated by others, backing the screw out about 1/2 way and then a few gentle taps wth a block of wood and hammer.
Screw keeps mirror from falling out when it breaks free.
Then a touch of grease, and they seem to come out a little bit easier after
a winter of salt and other crap.
01-19-2010, 05:17 AM
#25
Also, for anyone else....heres the best advice I can give for mirror removal and separation:
take your door off...its easier than you think (if you havent done it yet)
take it inside on carpet or lay a blanket out.
flip it upside down and work with gravity, not against it.
the carpet/blanket/rug will protect the top of your door and keep your mirror safe when it falls (flies) to the floor.
Tapping it wont work. It has to dislodge the tabs, so it just needs one solid hit. Dont just go whacking at it....think about what youre doing.
SunPro's idea of using a large bolt or steel rod in the underside to hammer on will protect your mirror.
If youre going to hit the mirror head though, hit it as close to the base as possible, and use a rubber/plastic mallet or wrap your hammer well with a towel/washcloth.
take your door off...its easier than you think (if you havent done it yet)
take it inside on carpet or lay a blanket out.
flip it upside down and work with gravity, not against it.
the carpet/blanket/rug will protect the top of your door and keep your mirror safe when it falls (flies) to the floor.
Tapping it wont work. It has to dislodge the tabs, so it just needs one solid hit. Dont just go whacking at it....think about what youre doing.
SunPro's idea of using a large bolt or steel rod in the underside to hammer on will protect your mirror.
If youre going to hit the mirror head though, hit it as close to the base as possible, and use a rubber/plastic mallet or wrap your hammer well with a towel/washcloth.
01-19-2010, 09:04 PM
#26
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It looks to me like you could repair that.
There is a plastic weld product that I think would support the weight. It's a 2 part bumper repair product, and is black. I used it to install the second set of lights on my quadlight bumper.
There are also several heavy duty epoxies that may work.
I'd glue everything inside real well, then put it together and duct tape the outside tightly for a couple of days to let it fully set before removing duct tape and reinstalling.
Even if it broke again down the road, it would put off having to buy a new mirror, maybe even give you time to find a used one.
EDIT: when you duct tape it, use something between the glass and tape...at least 1" thick.
it will protect your glass, and will press to assembly further in to keep it tight for the curing process.
There is a plastic weld product that I think would support the weight. It's a 2 part bumper repair product, and is black. I used it to install the second set of lights on my quadlight bumper.
There are also several heavy duty epoxies that may work.
I'd glue everything inside real well, then put it together and duct tape the outside tightly for a couple of days to let it fully set before removing duct tape and reinstalling.
Even if it broke again down the road, it would put off having to buy a new mirror, maybe even give you time to find a used one.
EDIT: when you duct tape it, use something between the glass and tape...at least 1" thick.
it will protect your glass, and will press to assembly further in to keep it tight for the curing process.
01-19-2010, 09:11 PM
#27
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01-19-2010, 11:51 PM
#28
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Absolutely..BUT with some of the components being metal and our roads COVERED in salt.. if I drive around for a while with those areas exposed and IF I have a chance to "fix" it.. I worry it might screw something up . There are some pretty good ideas that come from here...I'm hoping someone has one. Otherwise..yep..It'll be going on as is for a bit.
Last edited by SUNPRO; 01-20-2010 at 06:40 PM.
01-20-2010, 03:47 AM
#29
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Don't worry If you have RR brackets they'll rust up faster then your mirrors. Mine are less then a year old on my car and already rusting....debating just removing them and selling them, then buying some cheap mirros to drop into my holes for my doors.