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Metalcloak Thread

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Old 12-04-2013, 04:20 PM
  #491  
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I wouldnt call there shocks an advantage. Especially in up travel. Down travel yes not up. They move the upper mount for a reason, but they should have just made correct shock lengths instead of having to go back and make fenders to allow better use of them.. Also if you use there fenders the 3.5 coils can limit you before the shock will.
Old 12-04-2013, 04:36 PM
  #492  
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Originally Posted by jnabird333
1- the big advantage to the game changer (shocks) is up travel. The 2.5 and 37s will limit this unless using the overline fenders. 2- shouldn't be any issues 3- you can but the sway bars have little effect on flex (as least with the front disconnected) 4- i don't know, but there is no reason to change it from what you have 5- 1310 is a reference to u-joint size, if it's in the drive shaft it is small for 37s and hard wheeling. If it's in the front axle they should have full circlips and not c-clips. Sent from my wiz-bang time killing machine
Went with 1310s instead of 1350 purposely based on the fuse concept. Not a big deal to me if I have to replace every once and a while. I'm ordering trail spares. If I break to often, will upgrade to 1350.

I suspected as much on the 2.5. I'm currently running 35s. So I might start with the 2.5 and R2 springs when I move up tires in the spring. Don't want to run MC fenders.

Not sure I understand your answer re Antirocks. Don't they negate having to disconnect sway bars...

If the MC trackbar doesn't work, I'll Craigslist it. Both are quality.

Thanks for taking time to answer.
Old 12-04-2013, 04:39 PM
  #493  
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Originally Posted by Roryslife
Went with 1310s instead of 1350 purposely based on the fuse concept. Not a big deal to me if I have to replace every once and a while. I'm ordering trail spares. If I break to often, will upgrade to 1350. I suspected as much on the 2.5. I'm currently running 35s. So I might start with the 2.5 and R2 springs when I move up tires in the spring. Don't want to run MC fenders. Not sure I understand your answer re Antirocks. Don't they negate having to disconnect sway bars... If the MC trackbar doesn't work, I'll Craigslist it. Both are quality. Thanks for taking time to answer.
Guys running 40's and 42's are running 1310. The "fuse" logic is a great reason. The other is the that 1350 can't flex as much (something like 30% less). If you're running 40's and a hemi, then you have to weigh the pros and cons.
Old 12-04-2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Maertz
I wouldnt call there shocks an advantage. Especially in up travel. Down travel yes not up. They move the upper mount for a reason, but they should have just made correct shock lengths instead of having to go back and make fenders to allow better use of them.. Also if you use there fenders the 3.5 coils can limit you before the shock will.
The two rods in the shocks allows for it to have almost twice the length when extended. Since the shocks have a similar extended length to any 4 to 6" (27ish) the only gain is compression 14" as opposed to 17ish for a standard shock.

This is also why they don't suggest doing a drag link flip as it kills up travel.

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Old 12-04-2013, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jnabird333
The two rods in the shocks allows for it to have almost twice the length when extended. Since the shocks have a similar extended length to any 4 to 6" (27ish) the only gain is compression 14" as opposed to 17ish for a standard shock. This is also why they don't suggest doing a drag link flip as it kills up travel. Sent from my wiz-bang time killing machine
Thanks. The drag link flip kit was the thing I was considering. Now I know not to bother.
Old 12-04-2013, 04:49 PM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4

Guys running 40's and 42's are running 1310. The "fuse" logic is a great reason. The other is the that 1350 can't flex as much (something like 30% less). If you're running 40's and a hemi, then you have to weigh the pros and cons.
I understand the fuse logic but don't agree with it. Mostly because the stock shafts are stronger than a 1310 joined shaft. I also agree that they have less flex, (not 30% less), but less. This is only a factor with extreme flex though, and a JK on a 4 or 3 link will never see an amount of flex where this is a factor.

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Old 12-04-2013, 04:50 PM
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Not sure what this fuse logic is you guys are talking about. Guess I have more researching to do tonight!

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Old 12-04-2013, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Nibsirb
Not sure what this fuse logic is you guys are talking about. Guess I have more researching to do tonight! Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum
Would you rather break a u-joint on a drive shaft or grenade your ring and pinion? That's basically it! Haha. Best place to have the weakest link.
Old 12-04-2013, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Roryslife
Not sure I understand your answer re Antirocks. Don't they negate having to disconnect sway bars...
Sorry, you are correct that it's both an advantage and disadvantage to them. You either sacrifice road stability or bind free flex. They are adjustable, but the guys I know that tried them never found a sweet spot they were happy with. FWIW I have read some say they love them, and I have never personally ran them so my experience and knowledge is second hand.

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Old 12-04-2013, 04:57 PM
  #500  
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Originally Posted by jnabird333

The two rods in the shocks allows for it to have almost twice the length when extended. Since the shocks have a similar extended length to any 4 to 6" (27ish) the only gain is compression 14" as opposed to 17ish for a standard shock.

This is also why they don't suggest doing a drag link flip as it kills up travel.

Sent from my wiz-bang time killing machine
Well aware of how they work and it doesnt kill uptravel using a drag flip. You just have to do stuff correctly and when it makes sense. I stand by what i said and metalcloaks confirmed it.


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