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Metalcloak Thread

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Old 11-26-2013, 01:01 PM
  #381  
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The control arm lengths are probably one of the last reasons of death wobble....id bet most of the time its worn part in the front end or alignment, but theres many variables. Correct cast is good to have though.
Old 11-26-2013, 02:33 PM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
Ok, thanks. Think I got it. I'm getting the 2.5" lift. Am hoping the front stock DS will last for a bit before going to double carden and pr44. So what I have learned so far:

1. Remove shocks and springs.
2. Install LCAs adjusting length to align bumpstops. This should put the axle in the same position as stock in relation to wheel well.
3. Install new shocks and springs.
4. Install UCAs setting length to achieve 4 * of caster (at ride height?).
5. Install trackbar to correct length to recenter the axle.

Good so far?
Getting there
here's a good writeup. Now this is for a Tj so don't pay attention to the numbers.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/ho...ms-387330.html
Another idea is to use Poly/Synergy's numbers as a base. Most have the front lowers around 23-231/8. This will give you a good starting point.
Old 11-26-2013, 03:22 PM
  #383  
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Anybody have a part number for the springs?.....just want to make sure I have the correct ones for a 2.5

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Old 11-26-2013, 03:30 PM
  #384  
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lift installed. drives really nice! couldn't test it too much because of the cold wet roads.
still have a lean to the right and I feel like the front is sitting a bit higher than the rear.
Old 11-26-2013, 09:40 PM
  #385  
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I was pretty set on the MC 2.5" Dual Rate and use the shock extensions/mount kit until I could save up for some shocks, but with Northridge's BF sale, I can get the RK 2.5" Stock Mod and Synergy shocks for almost $300 cheaper. Too bad MC doesn't allow sales.
Old 11-27-2013, 02:27 AM
  #386  
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10
Getting there
here's a good writeup. Now this is for a Tj so don't pay attention to the numbers.
How-to: Setting up 8 adjustable control arms. - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Another idea is to use Poly/Synergy's numbers as a base. Most have the front lowers around 23-231/8. This will give you a good starting point.
Now that was an interesting read. One part I'm not too sure about though. If the front UCA brackets can be off from the factory, then how do you know when you measure from the axle tube to the front frame crossmember for squareness that the front crossmember isn't also off from the factory?
Old 11-27-2013, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Maertz
Correct cast is good to have though.
Speaking of factory cast, to simplify my install a little can I just put an angle finder on the flat base of the axle c before starting the install to get factory setting with taking into account the angle of my driveway and then matching that angle after install?
Old 11-27-2013, 05:41 AM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
Speaking of factory cast, to simplify my install a little can I just put an angle finder on the flat base of the axle c before starting the install to get factory setting with taking into account the angle of my driveway and then matching that angle after install?

Yes that will get you in a good ballpark... every now and then i check mine on as level as I can get mine...By no means is it super accurate but if it doesnt move you should be fine.
Old 11-27-2013, 05:48 AM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
Yes that will get you in a good ballpark... every now and then i check mine on as level as I can get mine...By no means is it super accurate but if it doesnt move you should be fine.
Thanks Maertz. That should save me a little time (and math!).
Old 11-27-2013, 05:58 AM
  #390  
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So I will be installing my 2.5" lift soon and reading the last several days of posts makes it seem like there is a little more to the install than I thought and I'm beginning to think my buddy and I did his lift the wrong way a few years ago. How much of these issues will be solved simply by having an alignment done after installing the lift?


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