Metalcloak Thread
#2551
#2552
I'll be going with the coopers on the next set though.
Last edited by sea bass; 11-28-2016 at 11:21 PM.
#2553
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Maryville, TN & Des Moines, IA
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Thanks guys...Not sure how companies continue to be able to get away with advertising tire sizes that never meet the advertised specs...pretty annoying if you ask me.
Chris
Chris
#2554
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
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Later we added 2" coils and extended the rear control arms (cut and weld job) for testing. Then we got into suspension and put the 3.5" Game-Changer 6Pak kit on it and never looked back. With our Overline Fenders, we could run 40's and the 3.5" lift (there are customers out there with that exact configuration) but that DOES limit uptravel, so we prefer 37's.
Originally Posted by dozer311
I recently spoke with metalcloak as I am deciding between the 2.5 and 3.5 as well. He mentioned on a lighter rig expect an additional 1" higher than advertised. So the 2.5 will give 3.5 and so on.
#2555
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Maryville, TN & Des Moines, IA
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Before we started developing suspension products, we ran Cloak 3 (our 4-door) with just our Overline Fenders (front/rear) and 37" Goodyear MTRs.... and skid plates... It can easily do the Rubicon in that configuration.
Later we added 2" coils and extended the rear control arms (cut and weld job) for testing. Then we got into suspension and put the 3.5" Game-Changer 6Pak kit on it and never looked back. With our Overline Fenders, we could run 40's and the 3.5" lift (there are customers out there with that exact configuration) but that DOES limit uptravel, so we prefer 37's.
Later we added 2" coils and extended the rear control arms (cut and weld job) for testing. Then we got into suspension and put the 3.5" Game-Changer 6Pak kit on it and never looked back. With our Overline Fenders, we could run 40's and the 3.5" lift (there are customers out there with that exact configuration) but that DOES limit uptravel, so we prefer 37's.
On a different note, we're planning to buy a 2018 diesel JLU as soon as they come out. Do manufacturers like you receive units ahead of customer delivery schedules to do your design/testing on your new products so aftermarket product delivery corresponds with vehicle delivery dates, by chance? I know it happens in powersports, but I wasn't sure about in the vehicle market. Thanks again for the help,
Chris
#2556
Did my research. I've wasted too much time already... I'm trying to figure out torque specs for my new Game Changer ARB 3.5" lift. Control arms, track bars, sway links, shocks, etc. I'm assuming they are the same as factory specs, but I just want to be sure before I start tearing down my rig.
Also, is the Harbor Freight torque wrench acceptable, or should I go get a better one?
Also, is the Harbor Freight torque wrench acceptable, or should I go get a better one?
#2557
JK Freak
Did my research. I've wasted too much time already... I'm trying to figure out torque specs for my new Game Changer ARB 3.5" lift. Control arms, track bars, sway links, shocks, etc. I'm assuming they are the same as factory specs, but I just want to be sure before I start tearing down my rig. Also, is the Harbor Freight torque wrench acceptable, or should I go get a better one?
#2558
#2559
JK Freak
That doesn't change the torque spec. There's a lot more that goes into it than my oversimplification, but if it's the same size bolt and nut, just use the same torque spec. If you really wanted to go crazy about it, Google is your friend and can look up the suggest torque specs for the new hardware if it is a different grade or has a different thread pitch. Chances are, it's all probably in the noise when you take into consideration everything from grade to coating to thread pitch to torque wrench accuracy. Use factory torque recommendations unless the northridge hardware comes with some specific directions otherwise.
#2560
That doesn't change the torque spec. There's a lot more that goes into it than my oversimplification, but if it's the same size bolt and nut, just use the same torque spec. If you really wanted to go crazy about it, Google is your friend and can look up the suggest torque specs for the new hardware if it is a different grade or has a different thread pitch. Chances are, it's all probably in the noise when you take into consideration everything from grade to coating to thread pitch to torque wrench accuracy. Use factory torque recommendations unless the northridge hardware comes with some specific directions otherwise.