Metalcloak Thread
11-04-2014, 05:27 PM
#1831
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prepared to spend a lot of time on the rear bumper/tire carrier. because the end caps are modular, and the bumper isn't all one piece, there is a bit of play in the mounting process. what will happen is you may find the gate swings too low and scrapes or hits the receiving side. or it is too high and doesn't click and remain closed tightly. it takes some work to get right. remember that the latch should click twice to close. i know that doesn't mean anything right now but you will get it once you have it in your hands and testing the locking mechanism. first time, it wasn't actually locking completely (you will know when it does because the damn thing is rock solid). i was making a turn on a road and my gate flew open. also, when you go to close the gate, the release latch needs to be pushed down. oh, and there is no rear recovery point so make sure you install the tow hitch! i didn't and had to take the whole thing off after getting it right.
for the front bumper install, use MC's sway bar disco relocation kit if you have one. also, move the vacuum pump but use teraflex kit if you plan on using an sPOD. i will say this, their bumpers have some of the best approach and rear angles. i never scrape on things many on the trails do.
i attached some pictures
for the front bumper install, use MC's sway bar disco relocation kit if you have one. also, move the vacuum pump but use teraflex kit if you plan on using an sPOD. i will say this, their bumpers have some of the best approach and rear angles. i never scrape on things many on the trails do.
i attached some pictures
Last edited by dalearyous; 11-04-2014 at 05:31 PM.
11-04-2014, 08:51 PM
#1832
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Location: Sicily, IT
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prepared to spend a lot of time on the rear bumper/tire carrier. because the end caps are modular, and the bumper isn't all one piece, there is a bit of play in the mounting process. what will happen is you may find the gate swings too low and scrapes or hits the receiving side. or it is too high and doesn't click and remain closed tightly. it takes some work to get right. remember that the latch should click twice to close. i know that doesn't mean anything right now but you will get it once you have it in your hands and testing the locking mechanism. first time, it wasn't actually locking completely (you will know when it does because the damn thing is rock solid). i was making a turn on a road and my gate flew open. also, when you go to close the gate, the release latch needs to be pushed down. oh, and there is no rear recovery point so make sure you install the tow hitch! i didn't and had to take the whole thing off after getting it right. for the front bumper install, use MC's sway bar disco relocation kit if you have one. also, move the vacuum pump but use teraflex kit if you plan on using an sPOD. i will say this, their bumpers have some of the best approach and rear angles. i never scrape on things many on the trails do. i attached some pictures <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=582993"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=582994"/>
SPOD, but am running the duAl
11-05-2014, 04:11 AM
#1833
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where is your compressor? passenger or driver side? and do you like it? i really want on board air.
yes you have to remove your rear tow hook. that is why you need the tow hitch and a d ring receiver (i went with smittybuilt). i just picked up the quadratec tow hitch. its cheaper and the nuts are welded onto the tow hitch. no idea how anyone would be able to tighten it down otherwise. also if you are curious my exhaust is the afe 3' hituck RB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=od7Ui-TRoF0 ... i highly recommend it too
yes you have to remove your rear tow hook. that is why you need the tow hitch and a d ring receiver (i went with smittybuilt). i just picked up the quadratec tow hitch. its cheaper and the nuts are welded onto the tow hitch. no idea how anyone would be able to tighten it down otherwise. also if you are curious my exhaust is the afe 3' hituck RB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=od7Ui-TRoF0 ... i highly recommend it too
11-05-2014, 07:45 AM
#1834
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where is your compressor? passenger or driver side? and do you like it? i really want on board air. yes you have to remove your rear tow hook. that is why you need the tow hitch and a d ring receiver (i went with smittybuilt). i just picked up the quadratec tow hitch. its cheaper and the nuts are welded onto the tow hitch. no idea how anyone would be able to tighten it down otherwise. also if you are curious my exhaust is the afe 3' hituck RB: YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=od7Ui-TRoF0 ... i highly recommend it too
11-05-2014, 05:00 PM
#1835
I got me dual ARB compressor mounted there also but I'm thinking of moving it. Got a evap canister relocation kit and am thinking of mounting the compressor on it above the rear axel. Have the MC ARB 3.5 lift. Has anyone tried something like this? Results? Thanks
11-07-2014, 04:36 AM
#1836
Spring Sag Anyone?
I have 12k miles on the 3.5 coils and have lost about 3/4 to 1" (depending on side) of lift on my front coils. This doesn't really bother me because we got WAY more than the advertised to begin with but the rears are still sitting at the original height. The result is pretty excessive rake.
Also, I am not able to stuff my rear fully due to spring rate. I have 2" of bump (all that is needed for my set-up) but have never touched them. I can hang two tires and the rear will not compress to the bumps.
Our miles are with VERY frequent trail riding. This Jeep is a toy, all of these miles are to/from trail rides and/or Jeep events.
I have 12k miles on the 3.5 coils and have lost about 3/4 to 1" (depending on side) of lift on my front coils. This doesn't really bother me because we got WAY more than the advertised to begin with but the rears are still sitting at the original height. The result is pretty excessive rake.
Also, I am not able to stuff my rear fully due to spring rate. I have 2" of bump (all that is needed for my set-up) but have never touched them. I can hang two tires and the rear will not compress to the bumps.
Our miles are with VERY frequent trail riding. This Jeep is a toy, all of these miles are to/from trail rides and/or Jeep events.
11-07-2014, 04:49 AM
#1837
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Spring Sag Anyone? I have 12k miles on the 3.5 coils and have lost about 3/4 to 1" (depending on side) of lift on my front coils. This doesn't really bother me because we got WAY more than the advertised to begin with but the rears are still sitting at the original height. The result is pretty excessive rake. Also, I am not able to stuff my rear fully due to spring rate. I have 2" of bump (all that is needed for my set-up) but have never touched them. I can hang two tires and the rear will not compress to the bumps. Our miles are with VERY frequent trail riding. This Jeep is a toy, all of these miles are to/from trail rides and/or Jeep events.
11-07-2014, 04:53 AM
#1838
Poison Spyder Aluminum Fender Flares (Narrow). Poison Spyder Brawler Lite Front Bumper w/ Warn M8000-S Winch, Rear Bumperless w/ EVO D-Ring mounts, Genright Aluminum Tire Carrier. But none of this has changed and all pre existed the MC install.
11-07-2014, 05:10 AM
#1839
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It may have pre existed before the lift but due to the weight difference not only wil it cause sagging but MC designs their products to be used with full steel armor. If you call Will at metalcloak he is more than helpful with these type of issues . I currently have a rake on mine but its due to no rear bumper nor spare tire. My spare sits where my rer seat is.
11-07-2014, 05:21 AM
#1840
It may have pre existed before the lift but due to the weight difference not only wil it cause sagging but MC designs their products to be used with full steel armor. If you call Will at metalcloak he is more than helpful with these type of issues . I currently have a rake on mine but its due to no rear bumper nor spare tire. My spare sits where my rer seat is.
The sag of 3/4-1" is from a measurement taken 1000 miles after lift instal VS two hours ago. The MC springs never removed the stock rake so my nose now looks about 1.5-2" lower than the rear. A heavy front bumper would only make my issue worse. I do intend to call MC but wanted to first see if anyone else had this. In truth, the coils are now close to their advertised lift amount of about 3.75" of lift in the front, the problem is the rear is still much higher at about 4.5" of lift (from stock). Between this and the stock rake that was never removed MY Jeep looks a little silly
Edit to add the front measured 4.75" of lift at the 1000 mile post install measurement.
Last edited by jnabird333; 11-07-2014 at 05:23 AM.