Rob50lx

Synergy also makes a lower mount that moves the shock out. I will be selling mine soon as I need to make some custom mounts that will allow me to run longer shocks.

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Maertz

how long of shocks are you looking? you can fit some 12" travel standard shocks on stock mounts...

sea bass

Yeah but the ome LT are less than 12" travel and I have issues with the stock location. I'm surprised this isn't more of an issue. I've seen a few posts on here with some bent shafts but it doesn't seem like that many people are running relo brackets. Here's the other photo I've seen that comes to mind..

Oh, and thanks for the tip on the nemises brackets. Those look sweet and just might be the ticket. Gonna get some ordered and installed before I cause any damage on the new shocks.

Thanks Maertz!

Invest2m4

Some/most shocks can be run inverted with the body on the lower side. That would give you a lot more clearance at the frame. You'll have to check with the manufacturer if yours can.

Rob50lx

They're not 12" travel shocks but the shock length is long for the amount of travel. I've got a set of Rancho 99331. Unfortunately I can't invert these shocks. I'm only running. 75" bump stops and I would need almost 3" bump stops if I don't alter the bottom mounts.

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Invest2m4

Have you been wheeling with this yet? I have 37s and run 2" of bump front and rear, 3.5" back space wheels, and Overline fenders (probably close to 2" more room for uptravel than your fenders) and I rub my fenders at full flex. At the very least you will be jamming the tires into the metal fender support bracket.

Maertz

Yeah sorry to sound like a 12" will just bolt on, most will hit the frame, but as long as you get a part like the nemesis it shouldnt rub and you can fit a pretty good length shock without moving your upper or lower mounts up or down, that was my point.

jnabird333

^^^This

I am running the same setup with exception to the fenders... I have Poison Spyder flares and rub them pretty hard. (But it the words of "Days of Thunder", "Rubbing is Racing" )

I am running Bilstein 5160 Shocks and had to relocate the lower mount to keep them off the frame at droop. I bought the Nemesis brackets, and they were so poorly made I couldn't use them. I called Nemesis and they were more than happy to correct the issue by sending my a new set, that they verified were good. When they arrived they were only marginally better than the first set. I didn't bother calling them again. I just cut, bent, and rewelded them myself. In the end I should've just made my own relo brackets as I put more work in reworking the ones I bought.

sea bass

I have not - only flex tested it on a ramp by my house. Was able to fully compress the front into the bump stop but I may not have squished it much. I was unable to compress the back all the way and just took some rough measurements. Are rubbing front or rear? I'm also running 37"km2’s which are probably closer to 35.5" I'll take it to work and cycle the suspension with a couple of forklifts once I relocate the front shocks out a bit

Invest2m4

I only rub in the front (frame, fenders, and grill). It's not enough of a rub for me to worry about changing anything though. In the rear, I cut a lot of metal out and the tire fits snugly up with 2" of bump. A forklift likely won't get the rear flexed all the way. Either need to lift the opposing front at the same time, or pull a coil and disconnect the rear sway bar (off road, it will fully flex on the right obstacles).

Here is a picture of my rear after a lot of metal trimming all the way around (it will stuff more than in the picture, it leaves about 1/2" of space at full stuff). Note that the fenders mount a number of inches higher than stock, so they will never be in the way.