snags922

But since I eliminated the torsional twist in the sway bar by making the left sway bar link longer, I should no longer experience any difference in body roll from brisk left and right turns - correct?

jnabird333

I may be confused... I thought you set the bar to help level out your Jeep. If this is the case then the bar has a torsional load and my aforementioned statement is correct. If you set the lengths with you Jeep sitting on level ground and adjusted the links to slide on (no matter how the Jeep is sitting) then yes, the bar is relaxed and this point is mute.

steel pirate

I'd take the tension off the bar and keep one link shorter. Easier than trying to make the Jeep level and keeping the links the same length. There's other factors that could influence body roll, like if you had a really fat chick sitting behind you and nobody on the passenger side, but that should help.

snags922

From what I understand from what you are saying is that for handling purposes, it is better to set the links to whatever length necessary to acheive the minimum torsional twist on the sway bar. Is that a correct statement?

snags922

That was my thinking also. I just wasn't sure I was right...LOL!

jnabird333

Yes. Sorry to over complicate it.

snags922

Not a problem. Your over complication helped me understand things better.

jnabird333

I wanted to share some info on bump stop heights as I know this topic has come up several times. I like that MC includes a stackable bump stop with their kits. This is the best way to let many types of rigs and set-ups dial in their up travel and capitalize on it. This however, puts some responsibility on the installer and/or owner to test their flex and ensure the stops are set correctly. We all know the best thing to do is test your flex and set the bumps for your rig, but some do not have the facilities or know how to do this. The other solution is to add too much bump and play it safe. (This is the solution most other kit manufacturers go with.) The trouble is, what is safe?

In the end, all I can share is what my set-up is and what I have learned, am running, and hope it helps someone....

My Jeep: 2013 JKUR, MC 3.5 Duroflex (Coils & Arms), Bilstein 5160 Shocks (15.91" collapsed length in front & 16.12" collapsed length in rear), EVO Rock Star Skids, PSC Tube fenders - Narrow, 37" Goodyear MTR-K tires. (I obviously have more stuff, but this is what pertains to my bump settings)

If you don't care about my process of checking skip the next two paragraphs

After installing my lift I put 2 pucks and the plate ~2.25" on the front and no rear bump on. My first stop was a forklift at work to check flex. It's a good thing I did this as I learned that my biggest limitation was the rear pinch seams. I knew about the seam on the front and had already trimmed it heavily, but I also had a significant rub on the rear pinch seam and it needed to be trimmed as far back as possible without getting into the inner fender/tube structure. Once I did this I still needed 2" of bump to keep the tire out of the fender. I then took some measurements and found I with the 2" of rear bump my shocks had enough travel to add the EVO rock star skids without raising the upper shock mount. (For those that do not know what these are, they raise the lower shock mount about 1.75" and provide a skid plate for the RLCA.) This gave me a usable 11" or travel out of the rear! Note: The MC Coils are starting to get loose with this much droop, so I wouldn't look for much more. Also, I have cut and rewelded my perches to remove spring bow. If you haven't you might have different experiences.

The front was much more straight forward. But I will add that I learned that forktruck and RTI testing needs to be taken with a grain of salt. Actual trail bump use is harder and will compress the rubber more. If you are in the hairy edge... add more bump. In the end, I run the 2.25" of bump up front but I do get a little fender rub sometimes. (Rubbing is racing right?) I would love it if MC would make a 1/2" puck but until they do I will let her rub a bit as my shock travel is still safe, close but safe.

For those that skipped.... I run 2" bump in the rear and 2.25" in the front for a usable 11" of rear travel and a usable 11.25" in the front. I hope this help someone

TheDirtman

It will make not difference the JK does not have a fixed sway bar that puts an independent rate on each side.

jnabird333

Agreed, when the bar is in a relaxed state. But if the links are set to preload one one direction to level the Jeep out (side-2-side) there will be no torsional force to counteract sway in the opposite direction (for a little bit anyway). The bar would first have to release the torsional load before it can counteract sway in that direction. This would result in an increased body roll by the amount the links are set differently (in one direction anyway). Right?