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Metalcloak Thread

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Old 06-17-2014, 09:09 AM
  #1531  
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Originally Posted by snags922
When I get them off, I was thinking of Frog Lubing the rubber and the metal stud. Frog Lube works great on my guns - should work well on this too.
.

Probably could just use the bushing grease MC sends with the arms.
Old 06-17-2014, 09:15 AM
  #1532  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
.

Probably could just use the bushing grease MC sends with the arms.
I don't think they send it anymore. At least, I didn't get any with my kit.
Old 06-17-2014, 09:21 AM
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Gotta be carefull that its jot petrolium based or it will actually swell and degrade the rubber and make it More difficult

Stay muddy my friends
Old 06-17-2014, 09:22 AM
  #1534  
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Originally Posted by snags922
I don't think they send it anymore. At least, I didn't get any with my kit.
I didnt either

Stay muddy my friends
Old 06-17-2014, 09:42 AM
  #1535  
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Originally Posted by Jade_Monkey07
Gotta be carefull that its jot petrolium based or it will actually swell and degrade the rubber and make it More difficult

Stay muddy my friends
I thought the bushing grease was just for the CAs? Frog Lube is not petroleum-based at all. It is known for being safe to use on anything, including rubber, plastic, wood, metal, composites, etc. It's biodegradable and edible (I haven't tried it but it's supposed to be). And it smells like wintergreen - how can that be bad for the rubber?
Old 06-17-2014, 09:44 AM
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Not claiming it was. Just warning you to make sure. Never heard of the stuff, and didnt feel like googling it

Stay muddy my friends
Old 06-17-2014, 09:51 AM
  #1537  
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Originally Posted by Jade_Monkey07
Not claiming it was. Just warning you to make sure. Never heard of the stuff, and didnt feel like googling it

Stay muddy my friends
No problem...I knew you were just warning me. I use this frog Lube on a lot of stuff though. Works great on guns. I frog Lubed my stainless steel door pin locks for my Jeep. The winter does a number on even stainless steel. So I cleaned them up this fall, Frog Lubed them and they are in great shape after the winter.

Sorry, didn't mean to get off topic.
Old 06-17-2014, 10:37 AM
  #1538  
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Originally Posted by Jade_Monkey07
My old zone ones are basically the same build and they were akways hard even 2 years later. My MC are stiff to get on and off too. Been out 5 or so times and just as stiff. It not uneven ground its the rubber on metal (possibly caked in road grime) that make it tough. I use a screw driver against the spring perch to gently pry them off. Also experimenting with dry graphite lube right now

Stay muddy my friends
Funny how there can be a little friction between rubber and metal like that sometimes.
Old 06-18-2014, 03:28 AM
  #1539  
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Originally Posted by snags922
Hey, does anyone have the MC QDs on the front? They are on there tight. I tried disconnecting them last night to install the brackets and man...never got them disconnected. Do you have to smack them with a mallet to get them off and put them back on? Cause they aren't coming off by any other means.
I figured out why my sway bar QDs were so hard to get off. I had them set to the same length. My Jeep, like a lot of JKs, sits about 1/2" lower on the right front (from what I understand, that is fairly normal). In making the sway bar links the same length, it was putting a lot of opposing pressure on both sway bar links, making it very hard to get on and off. I adjusted my left sway bar link so it is about 1/2' longer than the right sway bar link and everything works just fine. It doesn't seem like it should matter - will it?
Old 06-18-2014, 03:45 AM
  #1540  
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Originally Posted by snags922
I figured out why my sway bar QDs were so hard to get off. I had them set to the same length. My Jeep, like a lot of JKs, sits about 1/2" lower on the right front (from what I understand, that is fairly normal). In making the sway bar links the same length, it was putting a lot of opposing pressure on both sway bar links, making it very hard to get on and off. I adjusted my left sway bar link so it is about 1/2' longer than the right sway bar link and everything works just fine. It doesn't seem like it should matter - will it?
This is a fairly common practice for people to do to try to level their rig out....

This said, I can create some slight handling issues. Since you have the bar already set with some torsional twist turning one direction will be firmer with less body roll and turning the other will be softer and have more body roll. The only time I would think this could become an issue would be on a z-turn or evasive maneuver.

Find a parking lot and so some semi-brisk left and right turns. Be attentive to the body roll. If you are comfortable with it, roll on!


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