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Metalcloak Thread

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Old 06-15-2014, 06:48 PM
  #1481  
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10
I knew it was coming.
There's was a change driving over uneven road or hitting a dip. Hard to explain.

2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed
The change would be in your head because there is no relation to sway bar link lenghts and handling. No matter where the sway bar is mounted the spring rate and reaction would be the same. The only time the sway bar does anything is when the wheels are moving up and down in opposite direction in relation to the frame.

Last edited by TheDirtman; 06-15-2014 at 06:50 PM.
Old 06-15-2014, 08:41 PM
  #1482  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
You look really low prior, so it's not a good comparison. Use the stock measurements to determine lift. <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=559870"/> <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=559871"/>
Thanks invest
I'll check those stock numbers out.
Old 06-15-2014, 08:53 PM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
The change would be in your head because there is no relation to sway bar link lenghts and handling. No matter where the sway bar is mounted the spring rate and reaction would be the same. The only time the sway bar does anything is when the wheels are moving up and down in opposite direction in relation to the frame.
Not true. The flatter the bar stays in relation to the ground makes it a softer rate. The more pitch up or down, the less leverage the links have against the bar.

It affects ride if the bar is high or low because generally you don't hit bumps with both wheels at the same time. Imperfections and potholes and the like usually affect one tire at a time.

The reason most people will tell you that on a antirock type bar you make the arms sit a little higher than flat is because you need more down travel than up travel on most setups. You set the bar close to the center of travel not flat at ride height in that situation.

The same goes for a rubicon sway bar.
Old 06-15-2014, 08:56 PM
  #1484  
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10
I knew it was coming. There's was a change driving over uneven road or hitting a dip. Hard to explain. 2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed
I know what you are trying to say.

Last edited by Bypass; 06-15-2014 at 09:18 PM.
Old 06-15-2014, 09:19 PM
  #1485  
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Arm length on a sway bar like the anti rock will affect the rate of the sway bar, mounting the link farther out will soften and closer to the torsion bar will stiffen the rate. The lenght of the links has no bearing on the rate of the sway bar unless you go to the extrems of having the sway bar mounted near vertical where it would be at its limits with axle movement.

You are going to have to show me some math or draw me a picture to convince me otherwise. Please educate me to my ignorance of the subject.
Old 06-16-2014, 03:49 AM
  #1486  
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Originally Posted by Monster696
Finally got my lift installed.
Suppose to be 2.5 arb edition but it looks pretty high. Going to confirm they sent me the right lift kit. They already messed up with the brake line kit twice.
Here are the before and after. Stock rubicon tires

BEFORE:


Attachment 559868

AFTER:


Attachment 559869
The best way to measure before and after is from the center of the wheel/axle to a point of the body. I did it to the top of then fender flare but used a level so that it was accurate.
Old 06-16-2014, 03:55 AM
  #1487  
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Originally Posted by BigMike
The best way to measure before and after is from the center of the wheel/axle to a point of the body. I did it to the top of then fender flare but used a level so that it was accurate.
That only tells you how much your ride height changes. Every stock jeep is different. Coils sag over time, some add weight, etc. using the pictures I posted a few comments back, you can see how much lift you have relative to stock geometry.
Old 06-16-2014, 05:34 AM
  #1488  
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There is too much to quote here to put it all together but I am commenting on the sway bar orientation and the odd handling feel comment that started the conversation.

Sway bar orientations:

While it is true that the "best" orientation for sway control is to have the bar arms as close to parallel with the road as possible there are many other factors in play (such as shock pressure, spring rate, and track bar geometry). Having the arms be off parallel by <15 degrees will not be detectable in handling control. (perhaps it would on a race car with race tires, but not a Jeep with big off road tires.)

My front is pointed up at about 10 degrees. Any less and I run the potential of flipping the bar on full droop. My rear points up slightly too. This is because I have relocated my shock mounts up to get more usable shock travel and more droop. This causes the same flip potential for the rear.

If you are running short shocks this isn't a big issue as they will keep you from reaching enough down-travel where this becomes an issue. But if you are running long shocks and have your sway bar flat... you are asking for trouble.

Odd handling That started this topic:

I love my MC lift and after installing several other brands have only gained respect for it and the company. This said, I had an odd roll bump issue that eventually resulted in me replacing the MC rear trac bar bracket and bar with another brand. The MC bracket raised the bar too high for my rig and roads I drive. I experienced a bump in the rear whenever the COG shifted from one side to the other. This doesn't seem to be an issue for everyone. In fact, either the numbers affected are low or people just don't notice it. When I originally posted this issue here I had about 15 people PM me for more info so I know I'm not the only one.... The same number posted no issues noticed either in this thread or via PM.
Old 06-16-2014, 06:07 AM
  #1489  
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Originally Posted by jnabird333
There is too much to quote here to put it all together but I am commenting on the sway bar orientation and the odd handling feel comment that started the conversation. Sway bar orientations: While it is true that the "best" orientation for sway control is to have the bar arms as close to parallel with the road as possible there are many other factors in play (such as shock pressure, spring rate, and track bar geometry). Having the arms be off parallel by <15 degrees will not be detectable in handling control. (perhaps it would on a race car with race tires, but not a Jeep with big off road tires.) My front is pointed up at about 10 degrees. Any less and I run the potential of flipping the bar on full droop. My rear points up slightly too. This is because I have relocated my shock mounts up to get more usable shock travel and more droop. This causes the same flip potential for the rear. If you are running short shocks this isn't a big issue as they will keep you from reaching enough down-travel where this becomes an issue. But if you are running long shocks and have your sway bar flat... you are asking for trouble. Odd handling That started this topic: I love my MC lift and after installing several other brands have only gained respect for it and the company. This said, I had an odd roll bump issue that eventually resulted in me replacing the MC rear trac bar bracket and bar with another brand. The MC bracket raised the bar too high for my rig and roads I drive. I experienced a bump in the rear whenever the COG shifted from one side to the other. This doesn't seem to be an issue for everyone. In fact, either the numbers affected are low or people just don't notice it. When I originally posted this issue here I had about 15 people PM me for more info so I know I'm not the only one.... The same number posted no issues noticed either in this thread or via PM.
When your swaybar is 45 def up it will definitely affect ride an handling.
Old 06-16-2014, 06:13 AM
  #1490  
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Why? The sway bar does not know where it is in relationship to the ground.


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