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Metalcloak Thread

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Old 05-15-2014, 01:37 AM
  #1241  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Upper fronts stay the same (18.75 I think). Adjust lowers for 5* of caster (get an alignment and have them dial it in, but you can get close). Rears depend on a lot. 2 door or 4 door, how much lift you get, and what driveshaft you're running. MC specs are for an aftermarket driveshaft and rotate the pinion up. You don't want to do that with a stock drive shaft. Assuming you have a stock shaft, measure the pinion angle before starting and target to be close to slightly higher when done. Lengthen rear lowers about 1/8" shorter than the MC specs and then dial in the uppers to get the pinion angle.
Usually front lowers are set to 23 to 23 1/8 alone. Which will give 4-4.5 caster at smaller heights. Stock front Uppers are 18.75 so it would make sense they stay the same if MC is using 23-231/8 in their instructions.

Rears I would cycle the suspension with the lowers in alone and get the bump stop to hit the pad dead center. I Agree, using the stock shaft. Too much pinion angle can cause other issues. (pinion raises with lift but will rotate down with lengthened lowers)
Dial in close to stock if needed using uppers -after lowers are set.
Old 05-15-2014, 02:48 AM
  #1242  
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Anyone had a squeak? Wife complained of a squeak and it's coming from the front when the suspension cycles up and down. Tried to pinpoint it last night when moving the front manually but still not sure what is making it.
Old 05-15-2014, 09:59 AM
  #1243  
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Lay down under the front end and have someone jump on the front bumper. You will find it. Most likely just needs a little greese or a bolt re-torqued.
Old 05-15-2014, 10:35 AM
  #1244  
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Originally Posted by RocketLab
Anyone had a squeak? Wife complained of a squeak and it's coming from the front when the suspension cycles up and down. Tried to pinpoint it last night when moving the front manually but still not sure what is making it.
I know that the my sway bar was rubbing the front frame tube. The MC design results in the sway bar being angled up. The sway bar is never perfectly centered. I just took a grinder to the frame tube.
Old 05-15-2014, 10:46 AM
  #1245  
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Getting my JKUR ready for a trip to CO and UT. I'm ordering the MC Game Changer ARB edition and Rockhard skid plates - oil pan, trans & cat conv skid; gas tank skid and transfer case skid. The gas tank skid looks like it might get in the way of the lift install. My question - is there any reason to install one of them first? Should I install the lift first, then the skids? Or doesn't it matter?
Old 05-15-2014, 03:12 PM
  #1246  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Time will tell! You'll most likely need the dealer to bleed the lines. There is a starscan tool that cycles all of abs while bleeding the lines. Some guys say to just go lock your brakes on a dirt road, but I've heard success is limited.

Try a normal bleeding and maybe you'll get lucky. If not, cough it up at the dealer. There's a handful of stories about people who couldn't get the brakes firm again....
Good to go. Blead the brakes normally, keeping the res topped off. I did squeeze fluid into the caliper before tightening the bleeder bolts. Pedal feels normal.
Old 05-15-2014, 04:46 PM
  #1247  
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I'm gonna try to install my MC aluminum inner front fenders this weekend. We'll see. I need to grind the part that bolts into the gap of the fender (the 3rd - back piece) because the tube they sent me is too wide. If me and a friend can't get that to work then I'll probably just Jerry-rig it to work hahaha I have the stock fenders that are trimmed and don't plan on getting the nice MC fenders (though I wish I could afford them!) so that'd be okay with me.

I'll let y'all know how it goes.
Old 05-15-2014, 07:47 PM
  #1248  
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Originally Posted by snags922
Getting my JKUR ready for a trip to CO and UT. I'm ordering the MC Game Changer ARB edition and Rockhard skid plates - oil pan, trans & cat conv skid; gas tank skid and transfer case skid. The gas tank skid looks like it might get in the way of the lift install. My question - is there any reason to install one of them first? Should I install the lift first, then the skids? Or doesn't it matter?
1. Remove old skids

2. Install lift

3. Install new skids

Not that it will matter much, since nothing should prevent you from installing, but just in case... and it will be less stuff to possible bang your head on while installing the lift.
Old 05-16-2014, 09:17 AM
  #1249  
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Is there any reason besides extra articulation to get 6pak shocks they are real neat and good tech but I'm not a rock guy
Do they do anything for high speed off road or anything like that?? Thx for replies in advance
Old 05-16-2014, 09:25 AM
  #1250  
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The 6 paks will give a better on road ride but the extra articulation was the selling point for me. The high speed offroad should be a lot better than a standard shock given it's design but I have personally not ran them in that manner.

sent from my work leash


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