MBRP Exhaust, New to Wisconsin, and a Dilemma
#11
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im looking at getting this as well... did you have to get the evap can relocate kit? mbrp's website says it is needed but quadratec says they don't believe so and don't have it in their notes as needed. any help would be appreciated.
#12
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I do not, but I also have an unlimited. As far as I know you only need the relocate kit for the 2 door wranglers. None was needed for mine.
#14
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Just replaced stock with dynomax VT. 2 hours removal and 30 mins install. I did it on jack stands. Could have done it without - stands didn't give me much height clearance, but definitely easier with rear wheels removed. Of course, vendors give installation instructions, not removal instructions. Hot tips are:
- wear eye protection. Rust flecks in the eye suck big time
- lube the rubber mounts before removing the old system
- cut the pipe clamps with an angle grinder, splay open
- pry the joint flanges open with an old flat screwdriver then a pry bar
- spray into joints with PB blaster penetrating. Wait 15 for it to soak in
- remove old sections starting at the back, work forwards
- try to torque the pipe joint - works much better than a straight pull
- if it still won't release, enlarge the flange slits with a grinder. Be really careful at the joint behind the cat to not damage the cat pipe inside the joint. Pry wider as before.
- spray with PB again and wait
- curse, graze knuckles, curse again
- keep the grinder away from fuel lines and brake lines
When you get the new system installed, find a highway underpass, drop into first gear and step on it - enjoy hearing your JK's it's new voice - it was worth the work!
- wear eye protection. Rust flecks in the eye suck big time
- lube the rubber mounts before removing the old system
- cut the pipe clamps with an angle grinder, splay open
- pry the joint flanges open with an old flat screwdriver then a pry bar
- spray into joints with PB blaster penetrating. Wait 15 for it to soak in
- remove old sections starting at the back, work forwards
- try to torque the pipe joint - works much better than a straight pull
- if it still won't release, enlarge the flange slits with a grinder. Be really careful at the joint behind the cat to not damage the cat pipe inside the joint. Pry wider as before.
- spray with PB again and wait
- curse, graze knuckles, curse again
- keep the grinder away from fuel lines and brake lines
When you get the new system installed, find a highway underpass, drop into first gear and step on it - enjoy hearing your JK's it's new voice - it was worth the work!
#15
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Had this system for a little bit now and liking how it sounds more each day with break in. Just ordered ripps cai and waiting to see if that brings about any changes. I have a two door 12 with muffler before the axle and no relocate of evap
#16
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Its easy. I have this system and took 30 mins with hand tools. DO not use a impact wrench on the clamps...they will break. Do yourself a favor and go to autozone and spend 8 bucks on 2 extea 2 1/2 inch clamps. That way when you break on you arent stuck.
As for removing the old exhuast. It is a PITA, unless you do what I did. Cordless dewalt sawzall. Cut the passenger side exhaust mount off of the muffler. The way they are on there you will be fighting for hours to get it off. You wont need the mount on the pass side ever again. Just cut it and be done with it.
As for removing the old exhuast. It is a PITA, unless you do what I did. Cordless dewalt sawzall. Cut the passenger side exhaust mount off of the muffler. The way they are on there you will be fighting for hours to get it off. You wont need the mount on the pass side ever again. Just cut it and be done with it.