cstrick93

So I picked up my girlfriend today at her work for lunch, I noticed that when I tried to put it in first it died (she laughed and told me I didn't know how to drive a stick) well I seemed like my clutch went completely out once we left the restaurant, I had to force it into gear (1st, 2nd, 3rd...etc) I finallly got it in 2nd and got to where I could just drive it until I got to a shop. After talking with the mechanic who is a friend he told me it was more then likely either the slave or master cylinder and sent me to a guy who was cheaper then the dealership shop (thank god for friends.). I'm really just curious if this is something I need to be prepared to spend a lot of money on. I've seen YouTube videos and it looks simple... But I'm also a certified idiot when it come to playing mechanic. Anyone have theirs replace? Is that what happened to yours? How much did it cost you?

Mark Doiron

It could be the slave or master cylinder. Either one should show leakage of brake fluid (clear fluid, but darkens with age) in the area--slave is a black tube on the driver's side of the transmission (may leak inside then drip down through the opening at the bell housing). Master is located just driver's side of the brake booster, and could leak around the firewall or even on the passenger side of the firewall, soaking the carpeting.

I've replaced both. If it's the slave, that's easy because it's external. It's about a 20-30 minute job. The master is a bit more difficult because you're working some under the dash--maybe an hour of work. I have a write-up on the forum if you want to see what it takes. Expect the dealer to charge maybe $200-300 for either one, including parts.

Machoo

I just had my master done at a shop. Was about $200. My clutch pedal was starting to squeak/creak like an old barn door. 2nd was getting tough too. Now clutch is smooth as butter and quiet. 2nd is better but still gives me a bit of a fit once in awhile.

(none)

As noted, check for leak. It's usually the slave cylinder that is the issue and it usually leaks out. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace yourself if you can follow directions and use some common sense. If you can't pay someone and it still shouldn't be too much.

You can also buy the slave and master together, still pretty reasonable priced then you won't have to if it was one or the other.

RedNeckTypeGamer

So the breaks and the clutch run off the same fluid, being DOT 3, correct? If so, how much would i need to do a complete system purge and refill?

karls10jk

They do run on dot 3 or you can move to 4. Do not go to 5.

I replaced most of the fluid in my system and it was 2-3 pints worth. I opened each of the bleeders until I got clear fluid.

RedNeckTypeGamer

Ok, I've replaced the slave and master cylinders, bled the break and clutch fluid so theres no air in the lines whatsoever. My clutch pedal is still softer than when it was before the fault. How stiff should the clutch be? Should i have to push it to the max just to shift?

karls10jk

I answered the other thread but for info sake- the clutch is soft but not crazy soft and you shouldn't have to go all the way to the floor (or even close) to shift.