To M or not to M, also steel vs aluminum
#1
To M or not to M, also steel vs aluminum
If my post is too long for your interest, skip to the bullet points below.
So I've decided that the next purchase for my Tank will be fenders, so I can fit my wheels before a lift. I've been looking at a lot of Metalcloak stuff because they are a local manufacturer and they have good quality parts and reputation. I'm torn between the overland with the little M on the front, and the hardlines, which look more like the PSC brand, so I'm looking for opinions. I'm also torn between the aluminum, which are quite a bit more expensive, and the steel.
I'm aiming for building a Jeep that isn't overweight (too late? lol...) and thus the decision on the PSC "lite" front bumper that I just purchased. Also, I know there are other brands like PSC, smittybilt, ACE, and probably a slew more... and there has probably been the same number of threads on fenders floating around the internet, but if you have strong opinions please speak up. I'm definitely leaning away from Bushwackers because I'd probably just cut my fender flares if I was going the plastic route, and I'd prefer something in steel or aluminum.
Final thoughts on Smittybilt... I kind of like their aggressive "flux" flares (and the price point) but the reputation on the Smittybilt quality is crap and I've never seen them in person. 2 cents?
Thanks!
So I've decided that the next purchase for my Tank will be fenders, so I can fit my wheels before a lift. I've been looking at a lot of Metalcloak stuff because they are a local manufacturer and they have good quality parts and reputation. I'm torn between the overland with the little M on the front, and the hardlines, which look more like the PSC brand, so I'm looking for opinions. I'm also torn between the aluminum, which are quite a bit more expensive, and the steel.
I'm aiming for building a Jeep that isn't overweight (too late? lol...) and thus the decision on the PSC "lite" front bumper that I just purchased. Also, I know there are other brands like PSC, smittybilt, ACE, and probably a slew more... and there has probably been the same number of threads on fenders floating around the internet, but if you have strong opinions please speak up. I'm definitely leaning away from Bushwackers because I'd probably just cut my fender flares if I was going the plastic route, and I'd prefer something in steel or aluminum.
Final thoughts on Smittybilt... I kind of like their aggressive "flux" flares (and the price point) but the reputation on the Smittybilt quality is crap and I've never seen them in person. 2 cents?
- Overland or Hardline Metalcloak?
- Aluminum or Steel?
- Metalcloak or other brand?
- Smittybilt Flux?
Thanks!
Last edited by TacticalTankJKUR; 07-22-2016 at 07:32 AM. Reason: readability
#2
I like the Metal Cloak fenders for the front but the rear fenders not so much. A question that I have is are you planning on running rear quarter armor? If so which brand? Metal Cloak will only work with their armor.
I have a set of Bushwhacker flat fenders and love them. I have rubbed them on the rocks in Moab and Hidden Falls OHVP in Texas. I like the plastic because it will forgive a little more than the metal will and they do not rust. One benefit of the Metal Cloak is you can remove them before hitting the trail but that sort of defeats the purpose of having them.
No lets talk about the difference between Aluminum and Steel. As a corrosion specialist for the US Navy I am very familiar with how aluminum reacts with steel. Aluminum is softer and will corrode when paired with steel fasteners. Also preparing the aluminum for painting is a lot different than steel. For good corrosion inhibiting properties there is a four step process that must be followed. First is to clean the aluminum with soap and water to get a water break free surface. Second is to use some sort of chemical conversion to start the corrosion process but stop it. This is usually accomplished with the use of Alodine Chemical Conversion. Third is to use a quality two part primer with a corrosion inhibitor. One such primer is Zinc Chromate Primer. Lastly is the top coat with a clear coat. Maintenance on Aluminum is not that difficult when the right product is used. I use a product called Fluid Film which is a biodegrabible product. I will spray the area down and wipe it off and the Fluid Film will leave a protective barrier.
The prep and paint for steel is a lot easier because you can use rattle can primer and paint and use touch up as needed. Plus when you have steel paired with steel the corrosion process is slowed.
Hope this helps and I did not get too deep in the weeds for you.
R/
Will
I have a set of Bushwhacker flat fenders and love them. I have rubbed them on the rocks in Moab and Hidden Falls OHVP in Texas. I like the plastic because it will forgive a little more than the metal will and they do not rust. One benefit of the Metal Cloak is you can remove them before hitting the trail but that sort of defeats the purpose of having them.
No lets talk about the difference between Aluminum and Steel. As a corrosion specialist for the US Navy I am very familiar with how aluminum reacts with steel. Aluminum is softer and will corrode when paired with steel fasteners. Also preparing the aluminum for painting is a lot different than steel. For good corrosion inhibiting properties there is a four step process that must be followed. First is to clean the aluminum with soap and water to get a water break free surface. Second is to use some sort of chemical conversion to start the corrosion process but stop it. This is usually accomplished with the use of Alodine Chemical Conversion. Third is to use a quality two part primer with a corrosion inhibitor. One such primer is Zinc Chromate Primer. Lastly is the top coat with a clear coat. Maintenance on Aluminum is not that difficult when the right product is used. I use a product called Fluid Film which is a biodegrabible product. I will spray the area down and wipe it off and the Fluid Film will leave a protective barrier.
The prep and paint for steel is a lot easier because you can use rattle can primer and paint and use touch up as needed. Plus when you have steel paired with steel the corrosion process is slowed.
Hope this helps and I did not get too deep in the weeds for you.
R/
Will
#3
I like the Metal Cloak fenders for the front but the rear fenders not so much. A question that I have is are you planning on running rear quarter armor? If so which brand? Metal Cloak will only work with their armor.
I have a set of Bushwhacker flat fenders and love them. I have rubbed them on the rocks in Moab and Hidden Falls OHVP in Texas. I like the plastic because it will forgive a little more than the metal will and they do not rust. One benefit of the Metal Cloak is you can remove them before hitting the trail but that sort of defeats the purpose of having them.
No lets talk about the difference between Aluminum and Steel. As a corrosion specialist for the US Navy I am very familiar with how aluminum reacts with steel. Aluminum is softer and will corrode when paired with steel fasteners. Also preparing the aluminum for painting is a lot different than steel. For good corrosion inhibiting properties there is a four step process that must be followed. First is to clean the aluminum with soap and water to get a water break free surface. Second is to use some sort of chemical conversion to start the corrosion process but stop it. This is usually accomplished with the use of Alodine Chemical Conversion. Third is to use a quality two part primer with a corrosion inhibitor. One such primer is Zinc Chromate Primer. Lastly is the top coat with a clear coat. Maintenance on Aluminum is not that difficult when the right product is used. I use a product called Fluid Film which is a biodegrabible product. I will spray the area down and wipe it off and the Fluid Film will leave a protective barrier.
The prep and paint for steel is a lot easier because you can use rattle can primer and paint and use touch up as needed. Plus when you have steel paired with steel the corrosion process is slowed.
Hope this helps and I did not get too deep in the weeds for you.
R/
Will
I have a set of Bushwhacker flat fenders and love them. I have rubbed them on the rocks in Moab and Hidden Falls OHVP in Texas. I like the plastic because it will forgive a little more than the metal will and they do not rust. One benefit of the Metal Cloak is you can remove them before hitting the trail but that sort of defeats the purpose of having them.
No lets talk about the difference between Aluminum and Steel. As a corrosion specialist for the US Navy I am very familiar with how aluminum reacts with steel. Aluminum is softer and will corrode when paired with steel fasteners. Also preparing the aluminum for painting is a lot different than steel. For good corrosion inhibiting properties there is a four step process that must be followed. First is to clean the aluminum with soap and water to get a water break free surface. Second is to use some sort of chemical conversion to start the corrosion process but stop it. This is usually accomplished with the use of Alodine Chemical Conversion. Third is to use a quality two part primer with a corrosion inhibitor. One such primer is Zinc Chromate Primer. Lastly is the top coat with a clear coat. Maintenance on Aluminum is not that difficult when the right product is used. I use a product called Fluid Film which is a biodegrabible product. I will spray the area down and wipe it off and the Fluid Film will leave a protective barrier.
The prep and paint for steel is a lot easier because you can use rattle can primer and paint and use touch up as needed. Plus when you have steel paired with steel the corrosion process is slowed.
Hope this helps and I did not get too deep in the weeds for you.
R/
Will
Last edited by TacticalTankJKUR; 07-22-2016 at 08:54 AM.
#4
#5
Just to add a little fuel to the decision... this picture from Starwood Motors (Alpine Restyle) is the best picture I can find of the Smittybilt flux product... excuse the "low pros" because I'm sure they are controversial, does anyone else find these flares pretty sweet looking???
Attachment 652823
Attachment 652823
I like the Crawler Conceptz flares just need to save my pennies for them. I like buying American made products. Yes I will spend more but I know that I am supporting a company who is employing people in their area.
#6
Just remember you get what you pay for. I have seen the SmittyBuilt flares and to me they are cheap. You would be better off just trimming your factory fenders.
I like the Crawler Conceptz flares just need to save my pennies for them. I like buying American made products. Yes I will spend more but I know that I am supporting a company who is employing people in their area.
I like the Crawler Conceptz flares just need to save my pennies for them. I like buying American made products. Yes I will spend more but I know that I am supporting a company who is employing people in their area.
#7
I like the metal cloak fenders and would go with he highland model. Genright is also another west coast mfg that makes aluminum fenders and would not be concerned about the steel/aluminum out because of the lack of rain, which is one of the ingredients to the corrosion process. You can simply install a rubber strip between the panels when you mount them up. You could also just have the fenders powder coated, although I prefer the aluminum look on the fenders. Weight savings is a big plus in going aluminum. If I ever buy any fenders thats what I would go with.
Trending Topics
#8
Just to add a little fuel to the decision... this picture from Starwood Motors (Alpine Restyle) is the best picture I can find of the Smittybilt flux product... excuse the "low pros" because I'm sure they are controversial, does anyone else find these flares pretty sweet looking???
Attachment 652823
Attachment 652823
My preference in regards to looks would be the Metalcloak hardline series.
or Poison Spyder.
Last edited by Rednroll; 07-23-2016 at 09:13 AM.
#9
I think you mean the overland? They also have overline and hardline for the JK. Interesting thought on aluminum, but I was leaning towards tank green even though black would be consistent with my 2-tone color scheme and easier to touch up if necessary.
#10
I guess we have different tastes because I think those flares are pretty ugly, like they don't even belong on a JK and were taken off something else like a dump truck and stuck on there. However, I tend to like things that keep my JK looking as close as possible to stock.