Lugnuts on one tire keep backing off while I drive... HELP!
#13
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The bevel on the lug nuts and on the wheels has to match perfectly for the nuts to stay tight. Usually, if they work loose ONCE, it is enough to compromise the angle on the nuts, the wheel, or both. Removing the lube from the threads will do nothing for you, because the threads have absolutely nothing to do with holding the nuts tight on the wheel. Well.....they kinda do. Lube on the threads won't hurt a thing, though. The lug nuts are held tight by the corresponding angles on both the nuts and wheel. Most wheel manufacturers actually recommend lubing the wheel studs. I would very closely inspect the angles on the nuts and wheel. It is also a good idea, as one person suggeted to make sure the clips for the rotors are GONE. They are only used to keep the rotors in place while your Jeep was goin down the assembly line.
Been a lot of tire assemblies flying of and sort of icing the innocents around here which sort of makes the man look for this sort of thing after cleaning up the mess
#14
JK Super Freak
I would check the lubing for legallity. Not sure about oil but I'm pretty sure anti-sieze in particular is a definate no-no on wheel studs and brake caliper sliders.
Been a lot of tire assemblies flying of and sort of icing the innocents around here which sort of makes the man look for this sort of thing after cleaning up the mess
Been a lot of tire assemblies flying of and sort of icing the innocents around here which sort of makes the man look for this sort of thing after cleaning up the mess
LOL
Nope...you're SUPPOSED to use anti-sieze on the threads....as a matter of fact...the torque reading are considered more accurate when the threads are lubed.
The clamp loading figures (The reason we USE a torque spec....) are considered to be more accurate with lubed threads than with dry threads, as it helps to eliminate friction from dirt, thread irregularities, etc.
Standard procedure when torque reading are required to be highly accurate are to first dry torque, and then wet torque to improve accuracy.
So - it is a mis-guided information that misleads people to think that there is ANY harm in using anti-seize compound on lug nuts, etc.
In forensic failure analysis, this sort of mistake comes up again and again...even some people who thought they were valid expert witnesses are shocked to learn that they were taught wrong about it.
Grease, oil, and other lubes on the BRAKES, where the brakes need FRICTION to stop...well, that's completely different.
That's not the same thing....and yes....THAT'S a bad idea.
#15
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LOL
Nope...you're SUPPOSED to use anti-sieze on the threads....as a matter of fact...the torque reading are considered more accurate when the threads are lubed.
The clamp loading figures (The reason we USE a torque spec....) are considered to be more accurate with lubed threads than with dry threads, as it helps to eliminate friction from dirt, thread irregularities, etc.
Standard procedure when torque reading are required to be highly accurate are to first dry torque, and then wet torque to improve accuracy.
So - it is a mis-guided information that misleads people to think that there is ANY harm in using anti-seize compound on lug nuts, etc.
In forensic failure analysis, this sort of mistake comes up again and again...even some people who thought they were valid expert witnesses are shocked to learn that they were taught wrong about it.
Grease, oil, and other lubes on the BRAKES, where the brakes need FRICTION to stop...well, that's completely different.
That's not the same thing....and yes....THAT'S a bad idea.
Nope...you're SUPPOSED to use anti-sieze on the threads....as a matter of fact...the torque reading are considered more accurate when the threads are lubed.
The clamp loading figures (The reason we USE a torque spec....) are considered to be more accurate with lubed threads than with dry threads, as it helps to eliminate friction from dirt, thread irregularities, etc.
Standard procedure when torque reading are required to be highly accurate are to first dry torque, and then wet torque to improve accuracy.
So - it is a mis-guided information that misleads people to think that there is ANY harm in using anti-seize compound on lug nuts, etc.
In forensic failure analysis, this sort of mistake comes up again and again...even some people who thought they were valid expert witnesses are shocked to learn that they were taught wrong about it.
Grease, oil, and other lubes on the BRAKES, where the brakes need FRICTION to stop...well, that's completely different.
That's not the same thing....and yes....THAT'S a bad idea.
Anti seize is not a free lubricant an unless kept in contact by mating surfaces it becomes waxy and will not allow free movement of components especially when releasing brake pressure causing undo wear to the friction surfaces.
In regard to antisiezing the lugs I said CHECK the legallity. Maybe it's only in certain jurisdictions but I've been informed it's a Non acceptable practice here so you may want to make sure your vehicle conforms to the standards of the areas you might be passing through.
You may also want to Google "lubrication of motor vehicle wheel studs" and click on the article by the American Fastener Journal-It's the sixth listing which states lubricated studs will be over torqued....causing streching and failure-don't quote me read it yourself!
As a construction Millwright by trade I can also quote the correct procedures to acheive torque specifications but when the rubber hits the road I've got to respect the lawman's logic that governs whether I'm liable for a road incident
Last edited by 101gargoyles; 05-12-2008 at 02:31 PM.
#16
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star washers
Had my new pro comps 16x8 soft 8's put on the other day and had "the shimmy" at 40 to 60mph. Tire place was closed today so I took it to another place and found that there were 4 out of 5 star washers on every lug? took them all off and problem gone went down the highway up to 90mph and still no problems. Why 4 out of 5 on every lug they had no idea? Ordered hub centric rings for $10 a pair I'll probably put them on anyways when they come in
Last edited by red rcok; 11-01-2008 at 03:12 PM.
#17
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