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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Looking to upgrade my 2012 jk 2 door for improved trail capabilities...

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Old 09-09-2013 | 01:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Manual hubs. To go into 4wd, you get out of your jeep, walk to the front axle, bend down to both hubs, and twist the 'handle'. Then you get back in and shift the lever into 4wd.

A pic of some Warn hubs:
Attachment 496138

There are a few manual hub options for the pr44, you can find some info in the faq's on their site. Or look at the "44/60 hybrid" on their site. Adding manual hubs will raise the price,but may be worth it. (I know I wouldn't mind having them).


Are you referring to a front locker only, with the rear left open? Or a rear locker only, and deciding whether to add a front also?
Front vs rear if you only do one gets asked every once in a while. Different people will have their own preferences, but I think the rear is the more useful of the two if you are only getting one.

I definitely plan to do front and rear lockers at the same time

Matthew
Old 09-10-2013 | 07:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Manual hubs. To go into 4wd, you get out of your jeep, walk to the front axle, bend down to both hubs, and twist the 'handle'. Then you get back in and shift the lever into 4wd.

A pic of some Warn hubs:
Attachment 496138

There are a few manual hub options for the pr44, you can find some info in the faq's on their site. Or look at the "44/60 hybrid" , or even the front pr60. Adding manual hubs will raise the price,but may be worth it. (I know I wouldn't mind having them).


Are you referring to a front locker only, with the rear left open? Or a rear locker only, and deciding whether to add a front also?
Front vs rear if you only do one gets asked every once in a while. Different people will have their own preferences, but I think the rear is the more useful of the two if you are only getting one.
I remember a friend had those on his cj

Could you put those on factory Dana 30 or 44's

Matthew
Old 09-10-2013 | 07:59 AM
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Yes, you can put them in a 30 or 44. I guess I was not clear in my previous posts. Spyntec has replacement for the weak unit bearing hub that is on the JK. It does however require 5x5.5 bolt pattern for the wheels and cost nearly $2000
Jeep Wrangler JK Spyntec Overview | Spyntec Industries
Old 09-10-2013 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Yes, you can put them in a 30 or 44. I guess I was not clear in my previous posts. Spyntec has replacement for the weak unit bearing hub that is on the JK. It does however require 5x5.5 bolt pattern for the wheels and cost nearly $2000
Jeep Wrangler JK Spyntec Overview | Spyntec Industries
Not a great solution...

Looks like the Northridge Dana 44 with a locker and beef up the rear axles and add a locker and regear it all to 4:56

And Goto 35's either right away or pretty soon after...

I'm sure I missed something but I'll talk it over with David at Northridge and my local 4x4 shop guy

Will do it sometime before spring of next year!

Matthew
Old 09-11-2013 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthewd5
Not a great solution...

Looks like the Northridge Dana 44 with a locker and beef up the rear axles and add a locker and regear it all to 4:56

And Goto 35's either right away or pretty soon after...

I'm sure I missed something but I'll talk it over with David at Northridge and my local 4x4 shop guy

Will do it sometime before spring of next year!

Matthew
Sounds like you have a good plan. Since you already have a 33" tire I'd suggest getting 37's instead of 35's and get flat fenders (or cut your stock fenders). A 3" lift with flat fenders and 37's works extremely well. The Northridge D44 and 4.56 will work perfect with 37's. I went from 32's to 35's to 37's and now I'm finally happy. Don't waste your money on 35's.
Old 09-11-2013 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mdash
Sounds like you have a good plan. Since you already have a 33" tire I'd suggest getting 37's instead of 35's and get flat fenders (or cut your stock fenders). A 3" lift with flat fenders and 37's works extremely well. The Northridge D44 and 4.56 will work perfect with 37's. I went from 32's to 35's to 37's and now I'm finally happy. Don't waste your money on 35's.
Your running 37's on a beefed up stock d44 in the rear end?

How beefed up are we talking?

Matthew
Old 09-11-2013 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthewd5

Your running 37's on a beefed up stock d44 in the rear end?

How beefed up are we talking?

Matthew
Not beefed at all. I'm running the stock rubi axles and locker still. I plan to change to some ten factory shafts but that's it. The d44 rear isn't as weak as people make you believe. Check out the northwest section for my latest trip report from Moab and you'll see I'm not easy on my rig either.
Old 09-11-2013 | 09:03 PM
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The weak point on the jk rear 44 is the shafts, if you really wheel hard on them with big tires I bet they already have a twist in them right at the splines. When they go it is a mess, plan on pulling the diff and replacing seal on the broken side. Shaft failure at the splines on a rubi axle is one of the failures that I see the most. Typically happens with 37" tires.
Old 09-12-2013 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Yes, you can put them in a 30 or 44. I guess I was not clear in my previous posts. Spyntec has replacement for the weak unit bearing hub that is on the JK. It does however require 5x5.5 bolt pattern for the wheels and cost nearly $2000
Jeep Wrangler JK Spyntec Overview | Spyntec Industries
Also requires new outer shafts.



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