Looking for someone with the following setup, need advice on bumpstops
#1
JK Freak
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JKU 3.5 X factor long arm lift with 38x14.50r17 Goodyear MTRs or BFG KM2s. What bumpstops are you running for this setup?
#2
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It depends on how much you are willing to trim the tub.
I run 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels and do not have a body lift. I needed about 3.5" front and rear extended bumpstops, but I trimmed a good amount of the rear fender well pinch seams and the rear edges of the front fenders.
With 38s that wide, you will want to run 3.5" backspaced wheels to allow you to turn without completely rubbing the paint off the front control arms and the frame. Even then you will need to add many washers to your steering stops.
With flat flares and no body lift, you should be able to get by with about 2.5" front and 3" rear extended bumpstops if you are not afraid to trim the pinch seams.
I run 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels and do not have a body lift. I needed about 3.5" front and rear extended bumpstops, but I trimmed a good amount of the rear fender well pinch seams and the rear edges of the front fenders.
With 38s that wide, you will want to run 3.5" backspaced wheels to allow you to turn without completely rubbing the paint off the front control arms and the frame. Even then you will need to add many washers to your steering stops.
With flat flares and no body lift, you should be able to get by with about 2.5" front and 3" rear extended bumpstops if you are not afraid to trim the pinch seams.
#3
JK Freak
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It depends on how much you are willing to trim the tub.
I run 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels and do not have a body lift. I needed about 3.5" front and rear extended bumpstops, but I trimmed a good amount of the rear fender well pinch seams and the rear edges of the front fenders.
With 38s that wide, you will want to run 3.5" backspaced wheels to allow you to turn without completely rubbing the paint off the front control arms and the frame. Even then you will need to add many washers to your steering stops.
With flat flares and no body lift, you should be able to get by with about 2.5" front and 3" rear extended bumpstops if you are not afraid to trim the pinch seams.
I run 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels and do not have a body lift. I needed about 3.5" front and rear extended bumpstops, but I trimmed a good amount of the rear fender well pinch seams and the rear edges of the front fenders.
With 38s that wide, you will want to run 3.5" backspaced wheels to allow you to turn without completely rubbing the paint off the front control arms and the frame. Even then you will need to add many washers to your steering stops.
With flat flares and no body lift, you should be able to get by with about 2.5" front and 3" rear extended bumpstops if you are not afraid to trim the pinch seams.
thanks
#4
JK Freak
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It depends on how much you are willing to trim the tub.
I run 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels and do not have a body lift. I needed about 3.5" front and rear extended bumpstops, but I trimmed a good amount of the rear fender well pinch seams and the rear edges of the front fenders.
With 38s that wide, you will want to run 3.5" backspaced wheels to allow you to turn without completely rubbing the paint off the front control arms and the frame. Even then you will need to add many washers to your steering stops.
With flat flares and no body lift, you should be able to get by with about 2.5" front and 3" rear extended bumpstops if you are not afraid to trim the pinch seams.
I run 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels and do not have a body lift. I needed about 3.5" front and rear extended bumpstops, but I trimmed a good amount of the rear fender well pinch seams and the rear edges of the front fenders.
With 38s that wide, you will want to run 3.5" backspaced wheels to allow you to turn without completely rubbing the paint off the front control arms and the frame. Even then you will need to add many washers to your steering stops.
With flat flares and no body lift, you should be able to get by with about 2.5" front and 3" rear extended bumpstops if you are not afraid to trim the pinch seams.
#5
Forum Tech Advisor
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For the front, I prefer lower extended bumpstops because they act also as a coil retainer.
For the rear, you could do the adjustable, weld-in Rock Krawler uppers, or you could do something like the Teraflex lowers.
The amounts I gave were the combined amount of extended bumpstopping. It doesn't matter whether it comes from upper or lower mounts.
For the rear, you could do the adjustable, weld-in Rock Krawler uppers, or you could do something like the Teraflex lowers.
The amounts I gave were the combined amount of extended bumpstopping. It doesn't matter whether it comes from upper or lower mounts.
#6
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For the front, I prefer lower extended bumpstops because they act also as a coil retainer.
For the rear, you could do the adjustable, weld-in Rock Krawler uppers, or you could do something like the Teraflex lowers.
The amounts I gave were the combined amount of extended bumpstopping. It doesn't matter whether it comes from upper or lower mounts.
For the rear, you could do the adjustable, weld-in Rock Krawler uppers, or you could do something like the Teraflex lowers.
The amounts I gave were the combined amount of extended bumpstopping. It doesn't matter whether it comes from upper or lower mounts.