limagroup

I've read in a couple of magazines that 35's really seem to cause problems, because of the weight and damage to axles. Is there anything to take into consideration that won't break the bank when I go to 35"s Can anyone tell me from their experience with 35's on their JK (4dr) what the deal is? If I go to 35's will I have other problems with my JK in the future? And how long would it last before repairs or replacement. I don't do any heavy off road wheeling, mostly a daily driver.

Standing by

jeep2007

With 35s there are a few things that you have to do.One is a Pro cal or tuner so your shift points can be adjusted correctly. With a 2.5 lift like you have, flat fenders will give you the clearance. That's it. Sure ball joints will wear faster, but nothing will fail outside of normal use.

Since you are not wheel'n it, your gearing and driveshaft upgrades a guy that wheels would want to do don't really apply. But, please wheel it a little.

wayoflife

running 35's, you'll really want to get some c-gussets installed on your front axle as they will bend over time. depending on how you get your jeep to ride on 35's, you may find it necessary to replace one or both of your drive shafts with an aftermarket u-joint one. if you have a 2-door and run 3" of lift or more, you will need to replace the rear shaft and install a set of adjustable upper control arms to set the pinion. if you have an automatic, you will need to replace the front shaft as well as the factory one is too wide in diameter and will hit your transmission and skid. if you're not planning on installing new wheels with less backspacing, you will need wheel spacers to help prevent your rear sidewalls from making contact with the sway bar links. while it isn't required to regear, it is something that you might consider but, either way, you will want to calibrate your speedo with an aev procal, superships or hypertech as that, if nothing else will help correct your shift points. so long as you don't install a locker up front, you should be okay with your axle shafts but, if you plan on installing a locker, you will want to upgrade your shafts to chromoly.

limagroup

thanks, do you remember an estimated cost for those upgrades?

jeep2007

WOL is that guy on your right shoulder telling you what you really need to do to do it right. I was giving the minimum. Frt driveshaft $4-500. Front shafts $600-1100. Wheels are your choice and would need backspace like 4-4.5.

I have the EVO gussets and definetely do recommend them as well. They are $100 not including the welding. As with any up-size in tires, there are always some upgrades that need to be done.

Good luck and maybe some other guys can give their 2 cents.

scotty6336

Of course the sky's the limit with things you can do to make your jeep stronger, but MY experience is as follows, mabe it'll help you decide...This BTW is on an 07X, 6 speed

-1 3/4" daystar spacers, very inexpensive and less "lift" than you have
-35" KM 2's, measure out to about 34", and not a super aggressive tire
-chopped fenders
-both bumpers removed
-lower air deflector removed
-JKS discos
-3.21 gears (for now)
-d30 front, 44 rear

I wheel it mabe once a month, other than that its a dd, and I usually go to Uwharrie n'l forest in NC. Lots of rocks, sometimes mud locally. Havent had an issue so far. C gussets are always a good idea but I'm holding off for an axle swap and will regear at this time. For your uses, I'd say you should be fine, but C gussets are cheap insurance. I beat on mine from time to time, but its a DD so I try not to over do it....at this point I have 82K with factory installed original ball joints, no c gussets, nada.

Just another opinion, or rather another experience. For the record, I used to drive a 97 XJ with around 7" of lift, 35's, ford 9" rear and 44 front, so yeah stronger is always better, but for your purposes you should be fine.

roadking54

Here's what I've done thus far, for about 2 years, but still need to do some of the items WOL pointed out such as C-gussets, sleeves, and eventually a front drive shaft.

$1400 315/70/R17 tires (34.7 or 33.5 mounted under my JK weight and 9" wheel)
$900 17" x 9" wheels with 4.5" backspacing
$350 Superchip Flashpac tuner
$1500 OME HD LT Lift
$1600 Expo One rear bumper and tire carrier....to support your heavier spare
$1250 5.13 Gears

I didn't regear however for the first 6 months. It was bearable around town but deathly in the mountains.

If you already have a lift and are not leaving pavement, at a minimum you could probably just start with a tuner, wheel spacers, and the tires of course.

It adds up quickly...but all worth it

limagroup

So basically, I have a 2.5 coil lift, with 33's I believe I can clear the 35's. So what your saying is I can run 35's pretty long term with no upgrades as a dd and be OK. (I will eventfully regear to 5.13, automatic)

Thanks for your input

limagroup

I have 33's on 17X9, i would just swap to 35's

jhol111964

Wow. I've got 32"s and 3.21's. I can't imagine taller tires without re-gearing. As it is, 6th gear is useless with my top and doors off, as it won't pull even a slight grade without downshifting. Its really odd that some folks can run tall tires and 3.21's, while others can't. Engine tuning? Elevation? Secret sauce?