WYO-JK

hey guys im currently run aev 3.5 in lift with 35 12.50r17 bfg km2 but looking to bump up to their 4.5 kit and a 37 13.5r17 mud tire. im not looking to run spacers and want to get some beadlock wheels. what kind of backspace do I need? im currently looking at atx slabs and spyderlocks thanks!

Invest2m4

I assume you're looking at the Toyo tires? Not many 13.5 width 37s.

Either beadlock you mentioned will provide 3.5" backspacing, which is plenty for 37s. Really no reason to increase your lift. You'll have some trimming to do in the rear with the AEV kit. 4.5" and stock control arms will result in the rear axle being pulled forward. With 37s you'll need to do some decent trimming in the rear. That's also some serious rear pinion angle as well.

Maybe others can chime in on the AEV lift. I never figured out how they have no issues running stock arms and driveshafts at 4.5". And you can't just put a new shaft on the rear since the pinion angle can't be adjusted. I guess on a JKU it can work. Front is fine with the geo brackets though.

WYO-JK

I'm looking at toyos and nitto mud grapplers. I have aftermarket front and rear driveshafts already so what would need trimmed? I'm also putting on flat fenders and stubby front bumper

Invest2m4

Do you have rear adjustable control arms?? The after market DC driveshafts need to be pointing at the transfer case. With stock arms, it's way off. Can cause many issues, but worst case is cracking the transfer case in half from the stress. 4.5" lift would be even worse.

Rear pinch seam. Pointy body corner in front of the rear tire. The factory started trimming them mid 2013. So if you have a mid 2013 or newer, it's already trimmed. If not trimmed, you'll find it after the first bump you hit with the 37s

WYO-JK

I have a feeling this is going to get pricey lol aev says I can run 37s but I'm skeptical as well lol &I'd have to trim

v8zracer260z

Doesn't have to be too pricey. I'm running a 3.25" Rusty's lift with 37" KM2's on my Rubicon. Not sure you need a 4.5" lift to run them. I went with Metal Cloaks adjustable bump stops and do just fine. I'm running 3,25" backspacing right now. If you have a D30 you may want to look at a lighter tire like the KM2's to put less strain on your driveline. As for adjustable arms your driveshaft angles are more important the bigger lift you go, but you can take advantage of the better angles even at 3" of lift. Stay as low as you can to clear the tires you want to clear. Either of those bead locks are a great choice too.

WYO-JK

I'm currently running 35km2s with 3.5 lift lol

jtphoto JK

This is not correct on a 4dr actually. With stock control arms, As you lift, the rear pinion turns up toward the TC minimizing the pinion angle. On a 4dr this give an adequate pinion angle and has 0 to do with angle at the TC.

Equivalent lift 4" on front 2.5" rear. Pinion angles.
First image 4dr 2nd image 2dr

Invest2m4

Ok, won't argue the pictures. Don't quite follow what you said. Agree that angle at the t case doesn't matter. Angle at the pinion with an after market drive shaft needs to be ~1 degree from flat. If that can be done with stock arms, awesome. Saves money.

jtphoto JK

Sorry, which part did I not explain well enough? And yes it can be done, as you can see by that first photo with the 4dr and stock control arms. Front is a different story of course. Adjustable front CAs or geometry correction brackets may be required to dial in the pinion angle/caster.