Smudgeontheglass

35s with no lift isn't the issue here. I agree with everyone else that a 3.8 and 3.21 gearing is going to make you want to get out and push your Jeep to make it go faster. You will probably burn through some extra clutch just trying to get rolling all the time. I have 3.6 and 4.10 gearing and I find it struggle a bit on 35s.

If you just want to get off the Sport 29s, why not find a rubicon / BFG KM stock take-off for cheap. I've seen more than a few go as low as $400 for a brand new set. Those tires will last 100,000km before requiring replacement. They're great tires unless you live anywhere with lots of rain or snow because they fail pretty bad on ice and slick pavement. Get those tires for cheap and spend your money on regearing.

No401(J)K

So I've heard conflicting ideas here. One says my clutch will be fine and another says it'll slip and I'll need a new one soon after. So which is it?

No401(J)K

So will my clutch burn up or will it be okay? Seeing two different things.

No401(J)K

Didn't mean for both of those. Phone is acting up

Smudgeontheglass

I'm nothing more than a keyboard mechanic, don't take everything I say with such conviction. Your clutch will likely just wear faster because you'll be using more rpms to get going off the line. I don't believe anyone said it would slip. I'm sure with some practice you can get it down but it'll still feel slower than a Geo Metro with 4 linesman in the car.

The biggest thing to affect the vehicle's longevity is unsprung weight. Bigger wheels and tires cause your brakes, ball joints, shocks, bushings and even driveline components more wear and tear.

CRAWL TV

BUT,
Consider re-gearing to 4.56s or 4.88s and get some extended bump stops if you prefer to roll without a lift. As far as your clutch goes, you'll still be able to get many miles out of it. We ran our last JK (2012 Sport with 3.73s) for quite a while without re-gearing and never had any clutch issues. Be sure to get either an AEV ProCal or Superchips Flashcal as well to adjust your calibration settings for the larger tires. Other than that, you can think long term about inner C-gussets, and expect your steering and suspension components to wear marginally faster due to unsprung weight... See above for more on that. Honestly, if you like the low and wide look, I would still go with a small spacer lift (1.75-2"). Depending on what you get, they usually come with the extended bump stops as well and may alleviate some unwanted tire rub (although you'll still get some on the frame). Just my $0.02... The beautiful thing about Jeeps though, is you can build them however you'd like!

karls10jk

The clutch is durable on this vehicle, it's about the user. I've got a friend with 37's and 4.10's- yep, the clutch works fine but he certainly needs more gas to get moving. I don't anticipate changing his clutch prematurely.

I only replaced mine at 130k miles because of the TOB, the clutch still had plenty of bite and friction material left behind. You don't replace just the bearing if you're already in there though.

Mike H.

clutch...
"you" will need to modulate it more (aka slip it more) ... than you do now to get rolling... especially on hills.
off road, in challenging terrain, same thing, more slip (by the operator - you) to keep the speed slow enough to not tear the rig up.
Of course that depends on the terrain, if you keep it at moderate wheeling, you may never come across a situation that requires slooowwww speed.
Either way, clutches are durable, it'll likely last many years of daily driving if you are good at driving stick.
If you are one of those folks who revs the engine to 1500-2000 then slips the clutch out to get moving... less clutch life regardless of tire/gear, but even more exaggerated by the large tires.

mdash

I'd save your coin and do gears and tires at the same time. I ran 35's with 4.10's and it was annoying. You will never use 6th gear and rarely use 5th. Offroad will be pathetic with 3.21 gears and the 2.71 transfer case. If you can't afford both, I'd recommend buying a used set of Rubicon take offs and do gears. At least then you'd have a decent tire, only 32's, but way better then what you have and plenty capable. I don't know about Ohio, but around here, a basically brand new set of Rubi take offs goes for about $500. I had a lot of fun when my jeep was on 32's. With a good driver you go a lot of places you wouldn't think were possible. For most people, 35's and larger tires are just for looks. (I know there is a possibility for getting flamed for that comment, but let's be honest here peeps)

Oh, and if you do go for 35's. I'd recommend a minimum of 3" bumpstops and do the C gussets. Tube sleeves and/or truss would be something to look into also......... There's a guy on here somewhere, gnarlymike or something that ran 35's with no lift. He'd probably know what bumpstops you'll need and/or how much trimming to be done.

No401(J)K

I've been driving a stick for 3 years now. Started driving on a stick. I think I'm pretty decent at it. Getting used to driving a jeep again is weird, especially the clutch, but it's coming back. Just read a thread earlier today from a few years ago where A guy is running 35s with 3.21 gearing on his 2012 JKU and he said it's not bad. Only bad part is hills (I live in Ohio so hills aren't really a problem). If I absolutely hate it then I'll regear ASAP. You guys are awesome! Thanks for all the info