Longevity with 35s
10-03-2016, 04:04 PM
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Longevity with 35s
First time starting a thread here. This is my second jeep, first JK. I've been doing ALOT of research and reading on the forum. For this jeep I'm planning on running 35s.... no lift!! Yes no lift. I like the look of the full wheel wells. And I'm not just going for looks. I do plan on wheeling this beast as much as I can. I do know different brand 35s measure different heights, from 34-35.5 or whatever. In this thread I'm looking at how everything will hold up with 35s. (Jeep only has 46,000 miles)
If I run 35s with stock gearing (3.21) for at most a year with very light wheeling how will it hold up?
Will I need a new clutch in a year after running 35s?
Will I need bump stops? If so is there sizes I need to look for? (Might be a dumb question)
And the most worry sum part... will my axels bend at the "C"? Read some threads from a few years back saying people had bent there "C" after putting bigger tires and wheeling somewhat aggressively.
Will I need to add gussets and sleeves right away to the "C"?
Thanks for reading the novel and any and all advice is welcome.
If I run 35s with stock gearing (3.21) for at most a year with very light wheeling how will it hold up?
Will I need a new clutch in a year after running 35s?
Will I need bump stops? If so is there sizes I need to look for? (Might be a dumb question)
And the most worry sum part... will my axels bend at the "C"? Read some threads from a few years back saying people had bent there "C" after putting bigger tires and wheeling somewhat aggressively.
Will I need to add gussets and sleeves right away to the "C"?
Thanks for reading the novel and any and all advice is welcome.
10-03-2016, 04:21 PM
#2
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It looks like you've got the 3.8 so 3..21's and 35's will make you want to castrate yourself. You will need additional bumpstops, probably 2-3" but that will depend on how many times you want to tear your flares off while out wheeling. Your clutch will survive, no sweat. Common consensus is go with the C gussets for 35's as good insurance.
10-03-2016, 04:41 PM
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It looks like you've got the 3.8 so 3..21's and 35's will make you want to castrate yourself. You will need additional bumpstops, probably 2-3" but that will depend on how many times you want to tear your flares off while out wheeling. Your clutch will survive, no sweat. Common consensus is go with the C gussets for 35's as good insurance.
Have you done C gussets before? If so is it difficult? I know welding is involved and I know some skilled welders just wondering if it's time consuming?
10-03-2016, 05:01 PM
#4
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No, you won't destroy your gears unless you get crazy off-road but on the road you'll be fine. I have installed my own c gussets and they're not bad to do at all, not time consuming unless you pull your bj's at the same time.
10-03-2016, 08:04 PM
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35s on 3.21s with the 3.8 would be cruel and unusual, don't do it.
It sounds like youre trying to slap 35s on and can't afford to do the rest right now...which is prob not a good idea because the answer to all your questions is "who knows" and if something breaks its gonna cost you a lot more than just saving and doing everything slowly.
unfortunately building these things usually takes a fair amount of time due to budgetary constraints.
It sounds like youre trying to slap 35s on and can't afford to do the rest right now...which is prob not a good idea because the answer to all your questions is "who knows" and if something breaks its gonna cost you a lot more than just saving and doing everything slowly.
unfortunately building these things usually takes a fair amount of time due to budgetary constraints.
10-03-2016, 08:04 PM
#6
It looks like you've got the 3.8 so 3..21's and 35's will make you want to castrate yourself. You will need additional bumpstops, probably 2-3" but that will depend on how many times you want to tear your flares off while out wheeling. Your clutch will survive, no sweat. Common consensus is go with the C gussets for 35's as good insurance.
You can avoid all of this and these embarrassing consequences by simply, at least, re-gearing to the right ratio for your tire size. You can even just regear the rear axle, have them pull the front driveshaft, then regear the front axle and reinstall the front shaft when you have the coin.
10-04-2016, 01:51 AM
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Your right I don't have the money to regear right now but I will have the money to get new wheels ( with the right back spacing) and tires here in the next few months. If it's not going to hurt anything then I'm going to go for it. Along the way to rehearing I'll add gussets, flat fenders, and if need be a leveling kit for more articulation when wheeling. Not worried about going slow. I do a lot of highway to work to so no big deal. Thanks for all the advice.
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10-04-2016, 06:48 AM
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3.8 w/ 3.21 on 35's is doable.. but will suck balls... I ran my 2011 JKU for 1-1/2 on 3.73 it wasn't bad.. but the new 5.13 are A LOT better... I DO NOT run a lift and wont until I go up to 37's and have the front trussed and gusseted...
You can run 35's on a jk/jku with the right wheel or spacers and flat or cut fenders... since you said you dont wheel much, dont worry about a lift yet.. wheel it, learn to pick your lines, then when you DO lift you will be that much better... with out going to a bigger tire, the lift is only giving you more articulation... not ground clearance...
Do your gears ASAP.. you will love it.. trust me.. the BEST mod you could do....
You can run 35's on a jk/jku with the right wheel or spacers and flat or cut fenders... since you said you dont wheel much, dont worry about a lift yet.. wheel it, learn to pick your lines, then when you DO lift you will be that much better... with out going to a bigger tire, the lift is only giving you more articulation... not ground clearance...
Do your gears ASAP.. you will love it.. trust me.. the BEST mod you could do....
10-04-2016, 06:51 AM
#9
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Personally, I'd prefer to have deep gearing over larger tires for practicality.
If your tires are worn, or are a street tire and you need to get off road worthy rubber then I guess that would be the first step, but if you already have good all terrains or mud terrains, I would re-gear first.
Either way I very much doubt you are going to break gears. Bend a C or axle housing possibly... you said moderate wheeling, so, keep the speed down and the rig on the ground and likely not... but maybe... that's the sucky part, no one knows, some have great luck others end up with trouble under very light/easy use.
Personally, I did not like 35's with 4.10's... you are going to be utilizing a lot of clutch slip every time you pull from a stop, and even more if pointed uphill.
People always want the big tires first...
Back when I had an XJ with 31's I ran 4.56's and a 4:1 kit in the transfer case. It was a little low for the street but was awesome off road.
Friend and wheeling buddy had a 4runner with 35's and stock gearing.
It was amazing how easy a time I had and how hard a time he had... and that poor clutch... the smell... I don't know how it survived.
I later went to 33's with the same gearing and the rig worked really well. He jumped to 37's and still kept the same gearing... his rig became nearly useless and he ended up selling it. He had done solid axle swap... all the right stuff but would not regear. He would get so frustrated out on the trail... had to burn up the clutch or beat the heck out of the rig to go where I would literally simply idle.
If your tires are worn, or are a street tire and you need to get off road worthy rubber then I guess that would be the first step, but if you already have good all terrains or mud terrains, I would re-gear first.
Either way I very much doubt you are going to break gears. Bend a C or axle housing possibly... you said moderate wheeling, so, keep the speed down and the rig on the ground and likely not... but maybe... that's the sucky part, no one knows, some have great luck others end up with trouble under very light/easy use.
Personally, I did not like 35's with 4.10's... you are going to be utilizing a lot of clutch slip every time you pull from a stop, and even more if pointed uphill.
People always want the big tires first...
Back when I had an XJ with 31's I ran 4.56's and a 4:1 kit in the transfer case. It was a little low for the street but was awesome off road.
Friend and wheeling buddy had a 4runner with 35's and stock gearing.
It was amazing how easy a time I had and how hard a time he had... and that poor clutch... the smell... I don't know how it survived.
I later went to 33's with the same gearing and the rig worked really well. He jumped to 37's and still kept the same gearing... his rig became nearly useless and he ended up selling it. He had done solid axle swap... all the right stuff but would not regear. He would get so frustrated out on the trail... had to burn up the clutch or beat the heck out of the rig to go where I would literally simply idle.
10-04-2016, 07:49 AM
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Personally, I'd prefer to have deep gearing over larger tires for practicality. If your tires are worn, or are a street tire and you need to get off road worthy rubber then I guess that would be the first step, but if you already have good all terrains or mud terrains, I would re-gear first. Either way I very much doubt you are going to break gears. Bend a C or axle housing possibly... you said moderate wheeling, so, keep the speed down and the rig on the ground and likely not... but maybe... that's the sucky part, no one knows, some have great luck others end up with trouble under very light/easy use. Personally, I did not like 35's with 4.10's... you are going to be utilizing a lot of clutch slip every time you pull from a stop, and even more if pointed uphill. People always want the big tires first... Back when I had an XJ with 31's I ran 4.56's and a 4:1 kit in the transfer case. It was a little low for the street but was awesome off road. Friend and wheeling buddy had a 4runner with 35's and stock gearing. It was amazing how easy a time I had and how hard a time he had... and that poor clutch... the smell... I don't know how it survived. I later went to 33's with the same gearing and the rig worked really well. He jumped to 37's and still kept the same gearing... his rig became nearly useless and he ended up selling it. He had done solid axle swap... all the right stuff but would not regear. He would get so frustrated out on the trail... had to burn up the clutch or beat the heck out of the rig to go where I would literally simply idle.