Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Long Arm vs Short Arm Suspension

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-15-2011, 11:11 AM
  #31  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
BigMAK1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks everyone for the great information! Oddly enough the slider discussion was actually quite informative as that decision is being made too.

Took the Rubi out on it's first serious rock crawling trip last weekend and the terrain out here has a -lot- of ledges. Enough so that my next concern is the long arms being used as ad-hoc sliders. I think I'll weigh that... and likely end up copying Chris' setup to mount 37's with a 3" Long Arm. 37's for a little more clearance to help avert control-arms-as-sliders syndrome and keep the lift from being too agressive.

Altho my choice seems to bounce back and forth between 3 and 4".. (sigh). We'll see in a few weeks - hopefully I'll have a couple bucks leftover after my kid's wedding to buy my lift (have to keep the bank account well in the black until after that!).

New driveshafts are a given for what I'm doing - so if I decide to go 4" Long Arm will the wear and tear really be that much worse vs. 3"? Does the handling degrade much going the extra inch?

edit footnote: rock crawling stock height and wheels - the full length heavy duty Rock Hard tranny and oil pan skid saved my azz. Just saying. I think I need the gas tank skid now that thing got beat to heck! Wheeled slow and careful - no impacts at all on the diffs or arms. Just gave the skids some serious workout. Oh... my muffler is a bit flatter. haha.

Last edited by BigMAK1; 03-15-2011 at 11:16 AM.
Old 03-15-2011, 11:11 AM
  #32  
Former Member
 
Full-Traction Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: United States
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

No issues, no cutting of the control arms needed
Old 03-15-2011, 11:13 AM
  #33  
JK Super Freak
 
Harbourone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by BigMAK1
Thanks everyone for the great information! Oddly enough the slider discussion was actually quite informative as that decision is being made too.

Took the Rubi out on it's first serious rock crawling trip last weekend end the terrain out here has a -lot- of ledges. Enough so that my next concern is the long arms being used as ad-hoc sliders. I think I'll weigh that... and likely end up copying Chris' setup to mount 37's with a 3" Long Arm. 37's for a little more clearance to help avert control-arms-as-sliders syndrome and keep the lift from being too agressive.

Altho my choice seems to bounce back and forth between 3 and 4".. (sigh). We'll see in a few weeks - hopefully I'll have a couple bucks leftover after my kid's wedding to buy my lift (have to keep the bank account well in the black until after that!).

New driveshafts are a given for what I'm doing - so if I decide to go 4" Long Arm will the wear and tear really be that much worse vs. 3"? Does the handling degrade much going the extra inch?
What about 3" with a 1.25" BL from RC? Keep you in the safe lift height range for DS wear and tear, but still give you the right height you're thinking of.
Old 03-15-2011, 11:15 AM
  #34  
Former Member
 
Full-Traction Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: United States
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BigMAK1
Thanks everyone for the great information! Oddly enough the slider discussion was actually quite informative as that decision is being made too.

Took the Rubi out on it's first serious rock crawling trip last weekend end the terrain out here has a -lot- of ledges. Enough so that my next concern is the long arms being used as ad-hoc sliders. I think I'll weigh that... and likely end up copying Chris' setup to mount 37's with a 3" Long Arm. 37's for a little more clearance to help avert control-arms-as-sliders syndrome and keep the lift from being too agressive.

Altho my choice seems to bounce back and forth between 3 and 4".. (sigh). We'll see in a few weeks - hopefully I'll have a couple bucks leftover after my kid's wedding to buy my lift (have to keep the bank account well in the black until after that!).

New driveshafts are a given for what I'm doing - so if I decide to go 4" Long Arm will the wear and tear really be that much worse vs. 3"? Does the handling degrade much going the extra inch?


Ask northridge4x4, he went from our 4" to the 3" long arm on his 2door.
Old 03-15-2011, 11:45 AM
  #35  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
BigMAK1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Full-Traction Suspension
Ask northridge4x4, he went from our 4" to the 3" long arm on his 2door.
Hmm.. that's really interesting. I'll definitely ask why when I call to place the order and make the final decision then. Looking more and more like copying Chris' setup.
Old 03-15-2011, 12:39 PM
  #36  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
BigMAK1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Harbourone
What about 3" with a 1.25" BL from RC? Keep you in the safe lift height range for DS wear and tear, but still give you the right height you're thinking of.
Lifting the body doesn't give more clearance - except of-course more room for the tires/wheels. Since I'm going for 37s as long as I can clear those I don't want to bother with a body lift -- basically maintaining the center of gravity lower and clearing 37s seems like the best option.
Old 03-15-2011, 05:15 PM
  #37  
Former Member
 
Full-Traction Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: United States
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BigMAK1

Lifting the body doesn't give more clearance - except of-course more room for the tires/wheels. Since I'm going for 37s as long as I can clear those I don't want to bother with a body lift -- basically maintaining the center of gravity lower and clearing 37s seems like the best option.
Our 3" kits include the correct bump stops to run 37's. You do need flat fenders or cut your stockers.



Quick Reply: Long Arm vs Short Arm Suspension



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:38 PM.