View Poll Results: Which Kit
Voters: 42. You may not vote on this poll
Which Long Arm System and Why? PROS and CONS
08-18-2010, 07:14 AM
#11
JK Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Holmes Co., Ohio
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Oh, I would say it rode equally as good with the 5.5 coils as it does with the coilovers.
The coilovers are more stable off camber and I think soak up the big bumps a bit better.
I was very hesitant to install the COs(they sat in the garage for 2.5 months!) because I liked the ride so much, but now am glad I finally did it.
The coilovers are more stable off camber and I think soak up the big bumps a bit better.
I was very hesitant to install the COs(they sat in the garage for 2.5 months!) because I liked the ride so much, but now am glad I finally did it.
08-18-2010, 07:16 AM
#12
JK Super Freak
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Great looking jeep by the way man.
Also do you have any pictures of the 3 link and how it all mounts in the new crossmember?
08-18-2010, 07:46 AM
#13
JK Newbie
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I think I'm at about 3.5 up front, I'll know for sure when I get the correct length coil in the rear & compare.
Thanks!
I have some pics, I'll see if I can find them. If you want, I can email you a copy of the instructions & you can get a detailed overview along with pictures, just shoot me a pm with your addy.
Thanks!
I have some pics, I'll see if I can find them. If you want, I can email you a copy of the instructions & you can get a detailed overview along with pictures, just shoot me a pm with your addy.
08-18-2010, 09:01 AM
#14
Sponsoring Manufacturer
I am going to long arm my jeep and i want to know the pros and cons of each kit.
Will one give a better flex and not get in binds over the others?
Which one will ride the best on road and perform the best off road?
Which ones JOINTS WILL NOT WEAR OUT and has good quality?
Which company has the best customer service?
When i do this i want to do it right the first time? I will be doing the install and can do it over 2 or so days in the 18 wheeler shop i work so tools and things are not issues.
Any help is greatly appreciated and all open thoughts are accepted.
Thanks
Will one give a better flex and not get in binds over the others?
Which one will ride the best on road and perform the best off road?
Which ones JOINTS WILL NOT WEAR OUT and has good quality?
Which company has the best customer service?
When i do this i want to do it right the first time? I will be doing the install and can do it over 2 or so days in the 18 wheeler shop i work so tools and things are not issues.
Any help is greatly appreciated and all open thoughts are accepted.
Thanks
Also flex is determined by how long your shocks are and by how much bumpstop you have.
TeraFlex uses large joints/bushings on the lowers and med size on the uppers. If you any questions regarding TeraFlex products, feel free to call me. FYI I do have access to a RK Tri-Link that was removed here for a customer that switched over to a TeraFlex LA kit to compare to.
I'm parked on my co-workers YJ with 40's here.
Last edited by TeraFlex; 08-18-2010 at 09:08 AM.
08-19-2010, 08:03 AM
#17
JK Super Freak
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08-19-2010, 11:21 AM
#18
Former Vendor
Tera
We offer Independent 3 Links with Track Bars and not tri-links for JK's. We are about to release a DIY Triangulated 4 Link Rear Conversion for guys that are extremely skilled and what that type of set up.
To All
The biggest difference is not the over all amount of flex you will gain with our products, but the reduced amount of binding that naturally occurs with 5 link systems similar to Tera. The body of the JK tends to stay much more level when asked to perform off-road with a system that has no bind versus a system that does have natural binding.
When you have an axle that is over constrained it puts alot of extra Force on the bushings and joints which tends to cause wear faster than a system without natural binding. If you also have systems with long lowers and short uppers, that can also cause issues with excessive pinion rotation, excessive stress on the shorter arm mounts, more rear steer when compared to a system that has full length uppers and lowers.
In general both Tera and our kits will be limited to what length shock you can fit in the JK as to how much total travel you can gain! Some of the major differences is the amount of ground clearance we provide, the amount of body roll induced when asked to perform off-road, the warranty on our hard parts is lifetime, but in general both products are good products, but you have to weigh the pro's and cons. We require pre cat exhaust modifications in order to tuck our front control arms up so much, where Tera does not. In the end, it all depends in what you want! Whatever system you want will be the best for you!
Rock Krawler
Here is also a little information on our Joints and our Bushings!
Here are the answers to our joint and bushing construction!
The first image is a picture of our Krawler Joint which is our rebuildable spherical joint shown on the right! The first thing you will notice is the the housing is narrow where it bolts into the control arm mounts compared to the joint to the left which is your standard type joint used by the majority of manufacturers! The reason for this is to allow for maximum articulation out of the joint before the housing body hits the control arm mounting bracket. Wide heads as shown on the left contact the mounting brackets prior to ever allowing for maximum articulation which is one of the biggest causes of control arm brackets being torn off the axle in our opinion.
The second image shows the guts our our Krawler Joints which are the heart and sole of their simplicity! There are two impregnated polyurethane race ways which provide nice, smooth, and quiet bind free motion, a 52100 series steel chrome plated ball with built in flanges, and two chromoly thread in retainers. The joint body itself is made from 4340 Heat Treated Chromoly. The biggest thing you will notice about our housing is the narrow head! However, in order to keep the strength of the housing where we want it to be, the wall thickness is a full 1/2" thick! Most wall thicknesses in the industry are 3/16 or 1/4 at best on rebuildable spherical joints! All the shanks are 1" for all the lower control arms! Notice, there is no press required or specialty tools for rebuilding them either. You can actually adjust the preload on the joints while they are still in the vehicle!
The third image shows our standard weld on end and bushing material for the lower control arms at the frame connection! We use the largest bushings in the industry to provide with the best possible vibration free ride! Our tube end used is a 2.5" O.D. 1/4" Wall DOM allowing us to have a massive 2" O.D. 7/8 I.D. Control Arm Bushing. Our control arm bushings are also made from an impregnated poly so they are less likely to squeak! That is why they look so shiny in the picture! Also, notice the relief cut under the head of the flanges of the bushings. This allows for another 15 degrees of misalignment!
We have addressed all the details in our control arm construction to ensure the best possible on highway ride as well as the best possible off road ability without compromise! We are avid Jeep Owners and want to enjoy our Jeeps each and every day both on the street and on the trail. However, when we get to the trail, we do not want to look like an "also ran". We want to be what everyone aspires to be with their JK off road.
Like Tera, our rear uppers are double spherical as well as our front uppers! Our front uppers at the axle also get build a ball joint or another style of rebuildable spherical joint to allow for maximum articulation and provide a nice quiet ride. Typically, when pushed off road the OEM bushings in the front upper mounts are the axle get torn apart pretty quickly so we wanted to address that as well!
We offer Independent 3 Links with Track Bars and not tri-links for JK's. We are about to release a DIY Triangulated 4 Link Rear Conversion for guys that are extremely skilled and what that type of set up.
To All
The biggest difference is not the over all amount of flex you will gain with our products, but the reduced amount of binding that naturally occurs with 5 link systems similar to Tera. The body of the JK tends to stay much more level when asked to perform off-road with a system that has no bind versus a system that does have natural binding.
When you have an axle that is over constrained it puts alot of extra Force on the bushings and joints which tends to cause wear faster than a system without natural binding. If you also have systems with long lowers and short uppers, that can also cause issues with excessive pinion rotation, excessive stress on the shorter arm mounts, more rear steer when compared to a system that has full length uppers and lowers.
In general both Tera and our kits will be limited to what length shock you can fit in the JK as to how much total travel you can gain! Some of the major differences is the amount of ground clearance we provide, the amount of body roll induced when asked to perform off-road, the warranty on our hard parts is lifetime, but in general both products are good products, but you have to weigh the pro's and cons. We require pre cat exhaust modifications in order to tuck our front control arms up so much, where Tera does not. In the end, it all depends in what you want! Whatever system you want will be the best for you!
Rock Krawler
Here is also a little information on our Joints and our Bushings!
Here are the answers to our joint and bushing construction!
The first image is a picture of our Krawler Joint which is our rebuildable spherical joint shown on the right! The first thing you will notice is the the housing is narrow where it bolts into the control arm mounts compared to the joint to the left which is your standard type joint used by the majority of manufacturers! The reason for this is to allow for maximum articulation out of the joint before the housing body hits the control arm mounting bracket. Wide heads as shown on the left contact the mounting brackets prior to ever allowing for maximum articulation which is one of the biggest causes of control arm brackets being torn off the axle in our opinion.
The second image shows the guts our our Krawler Joints which are the heart and sole of their simplicity! There are two impregnated polyurethane race ways which provide nice, smooth, and quiet bind free motion, a 52100 series steel chrome plated ball with built in flanges, and two chromoly thread in retainers. The joint body itself is made from 4340 Heat Treated Chromoly. The biggest thing you will notice about our housing is the narrow head! However, in order to keep the strength of the housing where we want it to be, the wall thickness is a full 1/2" thick! Most wall thicknesses in the industry are 3/16 or 1/4 at best on rebuildable spherical joints! All the shanks are 1" for all the lower control arms! Notice, there is no press required or specialty tools for rebuilding them either. You can actually adjust the preload on the joints while they are still in the vehicle!
The third image shows our standard weld on end and bushing material for the lower control arms at the frame connection! We use the largest bushings in the industry to provide with the best possible vibration free ride! Our tube end used is a 2.5" O.D. 1/4" Wall DOM allowing us to have a massive 2" O.D. 7/8 I.D. Control Arm Bushing. Our control arm bushings are also made from an impregnated poly so they are less likely to squeak! That is why they look so shiny in the picture! Also, notice the relief cut under the head of the flanges of the bushings. This allows for another 15 degrees of misalignment!
We have addressed all the details in our control arm construction to ensure the best possible on highway ride as well as the best possible off road ability without compromise! We are avid Jeep Owners and want to enjoy our Jeeps each and every day both on the street and on the trail. However, when we get to the trail, we do not want to look like an "also ran". We want to be what everyone aspires to be with their JK off road.
Like Tera, our rear uppers are double spherical as well as our front uppers! Our front uppers at the axle also get build a ball joint or another style of rebuildable spherical joint to allow for maximum articulation and provide a nice quiet ride. Typically, when pushed off road the OEM bushings in the front upper mounts are the axle get torn apart pretty quickly so we wanted to address that as well!
Last edited by Rock Krawler Suspension; 08-19-2010 at 11:24 AM.
08-19-2010, 01:13 PM
#19
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Tera
We offer Independent 3 Links with Track Bars and not tri-links for JK's. We are about to release a DIY Triangulated 4 Link Rear Conversion for guys that are extremely skilled and what that type of set up.
To All
The biggest difference is not the over all amount of flex you will gain with our products, but the reduced amount of binding that naturally occurs with 5 link systems similar to Tera. The body of the JK tends to stay much more level when asked to perform off-road with a system that has no bind versus a system that does have natural binding.
When you have an axle that is over constrained it puts alot of extra Force on the bushings and joints which tends to cause wear faster than a system without natural binding. If you also have systems with long lowers and short uppers, that can also cause issues with excessive pinion rotation, excessive stress on the shorter arm mounts, more rear steer when compared to a system that has full length uppers and lowers.
In general both Tera and our kits will be limited to what length shock you can fit in the JK as to how much total travel you can gain! Some of the major differences is the amount of ground clearance we provide, the amount of body roll induced when asked to perform off-road, the warranty on our hard parts is lifetime, but in general both products are good products, but you have to weigh the pro's and cons. We require pre cat exhaust modifications in order to tuck our front control arms up so much, where Tera does not. In the end, it all depends in what you want! Whatever system you want will be the best for you!
Rock Krawler
Here is also a little information on our Joints and our Bushings!
Here are the answers to our joint and bushing construction!
The first image is a picture of our Krawler Joint which is our rebuildable spherical joint shown on the right! The first thing you will notice is the the housing is narrow where it bolts into the control arm mounts compared to the joint to the left which is your standard type joint used by the majority of manufacturers! The reason for this is to allow for maximum articulation out of the joint before the housing body hits the control arm mounting bracket. Wide heads as shown on the left contact the mounting brackets prior to ever allowing for maximum articulation which is one of the biggest causes of control arm brackets being torn off the axle in our opinion.
The second image shows the guts our our Krawler Joints which are the heart and sole of their simplicity! There are two impregnated polyurethane race ways which provide nice, smooth, and quiet bind free motion, a 52100 series steel chrome plated ball with built in flanges, and two chromoly thread in retainers. The joint body itself is made from 4340 Heat Treated Chromoly. The biggest thing you will notice about our housing is the narrow head! However, in order to keep the strength of the housing where we want it to be, the wall thickness is a full 1/2" thick! Most wall thicknesses in the industry are 3/16 or 1/4 at best on rebuildable spherical joints! All the shanks are 1" for all the lower control arms! Notice, there is no press required or specialty tools for rebuilding them either. You can actually adjust the preload on the joints while they are still in the vehicle!
The third image shows our standard weld on end and bushing material for the lower control arms at the frame connection! We use the largest bushings in the industry to provide with the best possible vibration free ride! Our tube end used is a 2.5" O.D. 1/4" Wall DOM allowing us to have a massive 2" O.D. 7/8 I.D. Control Arm Bushing. Our control arm bushings are also made from an impregnated poly so they are less likely to squeak! That is why they look so shiny in the picture! Also, notice the relief cut under the head of the flanges of the bushings. This allows for another 15 degrees of misalignment!
We have addressed all the details in our control arm construction to ensure the best possible on highway ride as well as the best possible off road ability without compromise! We are avid Jeep Owners and want to enjoy our Jeeps each and every day both on the street and on the trail. However, when we get to the trail, we do not want to look like an "also ran". We want to be what everyone aspires to be with their JK off road.
Like Tera, our rear uppers are double spherical as well as our front uppers! Our front uppers at the axle also get build a ball joint or another style of rebuildable spherical joint to allow for maximum articulation and provide a nice quiet ride. Typically, when pushed off road the OEM bushings in the front upper mounts are the axle get torn apart pretty quickly so we wanted to address that as well!
We offer Independent 3 Links with Track Bars and not tri-links for JK's. We are about to release a DIY Triangulated 4 Link Rear Conversion for guys that are extremely skilled and what that type of set up.
To All
The biggest difference is not the over all amount of flex you will gain with our products, but the reduced amount of binding that naturally occurs with 5 link systems similar to Tera. The body of the JK tends to stay much more level when asked to perform off-road with a system that has no bind versus a system that does have natural binding.
When you have an axle that is over constrained it puts alot of extra Force on the bushings and joints which tends to cause wear faster than a system without natural binding. If you also have systems with long lowers and short uppers, that can also cause issues with excessive pinion rotation, excessive stress on the shorter arm mounts, more rear steer when compared to a system that has full length uppers and lowers.
In general both Tera and our kits will be limited to what length shock you can fit in the JK as to how much total travel you can gain! Some of the major differences is the amount of ground clearance we provide, the amount of body roll induced when asked to perform off-road, the warranty on our hard parts is lifetime, but in general both products are good products, but you have to weigh the pro's and cons. We require pre cat exhaust modifications in order to tuck our front control arms up so much, where Tera does not. In the end, it all depends in what you want! Whatever system you want will be the best for you!
Rock Krawler
Here is also a little information on our Joints and our Bushings!
Here are the answers to our joint and bushing construction!
The first image is a picture of our Krawler Joint which is our rebuildable spherical joint shown on the right! The first thing you will notice is the the housing is narrow where it bolts into the control arm mounts compared to the joint to the left which is your standard type joint used by the majority of manufacturers! The reason for this is to allow for maximum articulation out of the joint before the housing body hits the control arm mounting bracket. Wide heads as shown on the left contact the mounting brackets prior to ever allowing for maximum articulation which is one of the biggest causes of control arm brackets being torn off the axle in our opinion.
The second image shows the guts our our Krawler Joints which are the heart and sole of their simplicity! There are two impregnated polyurethane race ways which provide nice, smooth, and quiet bind free motion, a 52100 series steel chrome plated ball with built in flanges, and two chromoly thread in retainers. The joint body itself is made from 4340 Heat Treated Chromoly. The biggest thing you will notice about our housing is the narrow head! However, in order to keep the strength of the housing where we want it to be, the wall thickness is a full 1/2" thick! Most wall thicknesses in the industry are 3/16 or 1/4 at best on rebuildable spherical joints! All the shanks are 1" for all the lower control arms! Notice, there is no press required or specialty tools for rebuilding them either. You can actually adjust the preload on the joints while they are still in the vehicle!
The third image shows our standard weld on end and bushing material for the lower control arms at the frame connection! We use the largest bushings in the industry to provide with the best possible vibration free ride! Our tube end used is a 2.5" O.D. 1/4" Wall DOM allowing us to have a massive 2" O.D. 7/8 I.D. Control Arm Bushing. Our control arm bushings are also made from an impregnated poly so they are less likely to squeak! That is why they look so shiny in the picture! Also, notice the relief cut under the head of the flanges of the bushings. This allows for another 15 degrees of misalignment!
We have addressed all the details in our control arm construction to ensure the best possible on highway ride as well as the best possible off road ability without compromise! We are avid Jeep Owners and want to enjoy our Jeeps each and every day both on the street and on the trail. However, when we get to the trail, we do not want to look like an "also ran". We want to be what everyone aspires to be with their JK off road.
Like Tera, our rear uppers are double spherical as well as our front uppers! Our front uppers at the axle also get build a ball joint or another style of rebuildable spherical joint to allow for maximum articulation and provide a nice quiet ride. Typically, when pushed off road the OEM bushings in the front upper mounts are the axle get torn apart pretty quickly so we wanted to address that as well!
08-19-2010, 06:39 PM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Longmont
Posts: 192
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Rock Krawler ordered.
I am by trait a mechanical engineer, and I have studied vehicle dynamics for the last 10 years….Not that that really means any thing.
But after many weeks of debate I just placed an order for the 3.5 Triple threat long arm kit. Tereflex was a close second but Rock Krawler seemed to really understand the suspension design and answered all my questions very well. I will get my parts soon so as they say the proof is in the pudding?
But after many weeks of debate I just placed an order for the 3.5 Triple threat long arm kit. Tereflex was a close second but Rock Krawler seemed to really understand the suspension design and answered all my questions very well. I will get my parts soon so as they say the proof is in the pudding?