Apparently this is a pitch in-between corse and fine threads. I went to Fastenal and the Jeep Dealer and they both said they were special order. So these bolts are like the wheres Waldo of bolts. I'm kinda mad that they only put enough bolts in that would cover an Automatic transmission. I mean they should send enough to do Manual transmissions that don't have that Auto Transmission skid plate. I wonder if it was a mis-pack. I did receive 2 extra allen bolts for the LOD plate. I'm going to Email them to see if they can send me 2 bolts.

 

They don't send the bolts. If they did, they would ask if you have a manual or auto trans. Really though, if you can find an Ace Hardware, they will have it. I've always found the odd JK thread bolts at an Ace.

 

They sent bolts with mine. Not the ones that go through the crossmember, just the ones that you have to drill the holes for.
I used a 7/16"xNF20 tap and the bolts worked fine.

 

We are talking about the metric bolt that a manual JK doesn't have. The hole and internal nut are there, but no bolt. An auto has a bolt there as there is a skid. It's the under frame bolt for the forward mount that uses the existing hole. Basically, someone with a manual trans is one bolt short every time. At least for anyone I know that bought the sliders.

 

Opps, my mistake.

Might be able to pick one up from the junk yard I wonder?

 

I had a bolt left over from installing my lift. It was longer than the driver side bolt but the correct thread so I used it. Did anyone have issues drilling the holes and having all 4 holes on the rear post line up perfectly? I have one hole on each side not line up and forcing the bolt in cross threaded it. Just something to watch out for. Drill carefully. Also I swear the steal on the passenger side was harder than the drivers side. Bought a new bit and tap and still had issues. 7/16 nf 20 tapper is easier to use than a plug tap. I recommend getting one. Found one in a 3 pack on Amazon. Ace only had plugs. Had to over night it since the plug tap didn't work on the passenger side. I like the sliders. Probably would weld them instead if I had to do again

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003K...s=7%2F16+nf+20

Has the tapper

 

I Used for tools that I did not already have...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00

This tool is a total life saver.. Must have this wrench makes doing this so much easier than with a standard Wrench

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01

Here are a few more pics..

 

It can happen. The first step toward preventing it is using a step bit or annular cutter. No matter what you do, a standard drill bit will move the hole around. Step bits should always be the first line of offense. Finish with a straight bit if needed.

Second, never force a bolt as cross threading is not good. If the holes are off, grind out the hole in the slider. Yeah, no one wants to touch the powder coat, but it's the right thing to do. Plus, you are going to damage the coating in the hole trying to jam a bolt through that it really doesn't matter.

 

I used an Auto center Punch to mark the exact holes then I drilled a pilot hole with a 1/8" Drill bit. Then from there I just used the 25/64 bit to finish it off. The pilot hole prevents the larger drill bit from deviating from the center punch mark, which larger bits like to do when you throw your shoulder into the drill. I got lucky all my holes lined up perfectly. I was worried about that. nothing sucks more than to have to slap a bead on the frame grind it down and re do it. At that point I probably would have just welded it lol... I like the fact that I can take them off if I want to.. If I really Need strength I can always lay a few beads down. I would TIG it though its a lot cleaner weld and they tend to look nicer than messy stick weld beads.

 

Morris 4x4,.