Locker On Sahara?
01-06-2015, 04:11 PM
#11
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Palmyra, wi
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is a sensible option for the OP to consider. The Tru-Lok could be switched with a sPOD or just simple toggle & relay. But, that brings us to the rear axle and as mentioned, you'd use a rear locker much more than the front. Your best bet might be an Eaton e-locker in the rear, then perhaps finding a take out Rubi 44 for the front at some point. FWIW, one of my fellow club members has a Sahara and after considering all options she went ARB in the rear and swung for the fences with a fully built PR44/ARB in front. She's on Duratrac 34s, no more worries.
One last thought, I'm 50 miles from Silverton, CO and run those local mountain trails a lot in the summertime. Other than Poughkeesie Gulch I never use the lockers on my Rubicon. You may not need them at all, so I'd suggest you come on out and see for yourself before diving in.
One last thought, I'm 50 miles from Silverton, CO and run those local mountain trails a lot in the summertime. Other than Poughkeesie Gulch I never use the lockers on my Rubicon. You may not need them at all, so I'd suggest you come on out and see for yourself before diving in.
The problem I had was lack of traction on steep hills, I was the only one without a front locker and struggled to get up the hills... But perhaps with a better tire it may not be as much of a problem.
01-06-2015, 04:42 PM
#12
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Palmyra, wi
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thinking about a 285/70 17 or a 305/65 17 on micky thompson classic iii's.
I like the duratrack, pro comp extreme At's or MT baja atzp3 , but have researched enough to determine which one.
I like the duratrack, pro comp extreme At's or MT baja atzp3 , but have researched enough to determine which one.
01-06-2015, 06:06 PM
#13
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-06-2015, 07:26 PM
#14
Since you're more of a street driver going with an A/T, I'd go with some 35" Duratracs and a good set of beadlocks. You'll be good with that setup.
01-06-2015, 07:34 PM
#15
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Palmyra, wi
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-06-2015, 07:45 PM
#16
JK Freak
You don't need beadlocks for what you use your jeep for. I run my 35 MTRs between 10 & 12 PSI all the time without issue. Those I wheel with run low PSI without beadlocks as well. Beadlocks are nice but not mandatory. Spend the money elsewhere.
01-06-2015, 08:52 PM
#17
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The least expensive way to help the traction in the front is a Eaton trutrac. If your worried about the strength of the D30, then add sleeve inserts and C gussets while changing the diff. But I'll bet the stock D30 with trutrac will do all you want it to do. If you start wheeling hard enough that you tear the D30 up, then you can replace with better setup. Like they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Last edited by badeye; 01-06-2015 at 08:54 PM.
01-06-2015, 09:46 PM
#18
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: 54° 4.5' N 123° 7' W
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are truly 95% street then don't bother locking it. I have a front Lokka on my Sahara and I am happy with the knowledge that it is much more capable offroad than without the locker. It cost less than $300 and I installed it myself. If I wheeled less I would go back to an open diff for daily driving.
01-06-2015, 10:35 PM
#20
Actually instead of a winch, like another poster mentioned just go with a tru-trac up front for the least cost. See how that works with stock wheels and a decent A/T tire. Have room to spend a little more $? Get the beadlocks.
Last edited by DJ1; 01-06-2015 at 11:45 PM.