Locker On Sahara?
01-05-2015, 12:05 PM
#1
JK Newbie
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Locker On Sahara?
I have a 2012 Sahara unlimited with 3.73 LSD rear diff. Last time out wheeling it was less then terrific. Since then I have added 2.5" AEV suspension lift, and JKS disconnects, and will be replacing tires and wheels but will stick with an all train type tire for street ability
Cars is 95% street use and sees offroad a couple times a year.
Headed to Colorado this year to do some wheeling and expect to see more rocks then in Wisconsin and would like to increase traction a bit more.
Would it make sense to add a front locker to existing D30 or replace the whole axle with one of the bolt ons out there.
I am leading towards replacing the front axle assembly with a mopar, G2 or tereflex axle unit
Also is there a way to tie the front locker into the Factory system to operate like a stock rubicon, IE not allowed to engage unless in 4lo....
Thanks
Cars is 95% street use and sees offroad a couple times a year.
Headed to Colorado this year to do some wheeling and expect to see more rocks then in Wisconsin and would like to increase traction a bit more.
Would it make sense to add a front locker to existing D30 or replace the whole axle with one of the bolt ons out there.
I am leading towards replacing the front axle assembly with a mopar, G2 or tereflex axle unit
Also is there a way to tie the front locker into the Factory system to operate like a stock rubicon, IE not allowed to engage unless in 4lo....
Thanks
01-05-2015, 12:55 PM
#2
JK Jedi Master
Some thoughts for your consideration ...
1. Select your AT carefully. Some are barely not street tires; others are pretty aggressive. But don't expect miracles from an AT in mud. They just don't clear as well as a blockier tread.
2. Air down. 12-15 PSI for crawling. You'll lose a little ground clearance, but grip will improve a lot.
3. I prefer to use a rear locker. Jeep is way easier to steer. And you need a locker when headed up. Weight is on rear axle, so give it the benefit of max performance. Of course, others make the same argument for putting it in the front, LOL. But, when you turn on a factory Rubi locker, you can't just turn on the front. It is rear or both. And when Jeep offered an optional locker on the X's, it was rear only. And your 44 is stronger than that 30. You'll worry less about breaking it.
1. Select your AT carefully. Some are barely not street tires; others are pretty aggressive. But don't expect miracles from an AT in mud. They just don't clear as well as a blockier tread.
2. Air down. 12-15 PSI for crawling. You'll lose a little ground clearance, but grip will improve a lot.
3. I prefer to use a rear locker. Jeep is way easier to steer. And you need a locker when headed up. Weight is on rear axle, so give it the benefit of max performance. Of course, others make the same argument for putting it in the front, LOL. But, when you turn on a factory Rubi locker, you can't just turn on the front. It is rear or both. And when Jeep offered an optional locker on the X's, it was rear only. And your 44 is stronger than that 30. You'll worry less about breaking it.
01-05-2015, 01:15 PM
#3
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On the tires I went with Toyo Open Country AT II's. My exposure to mud has been limited but I have so far been able to go everywhere the guys with the MT's have gone and in most case had better traction on rocks. No issues airing down nor with any punctures so far.
01-05-2015, 03:21 PM
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What is your budget? Are you regearing at the same time?
You are looking at over 5 grand for an aftermarket front d44 (plus shipping and labor for the swap?) If you are considering a new factory front d44, you might be better off skipping it and going aftermarket unless you can find a great deal. Prices on used factory 44's vary quite a bit, but guess somewhere in the 2-2.5k range. And to add a selectable, somewhere around a grand for the locker, plus air source/wiring/switches/etc depending on the locker you choose, plus the install labor. (400-600 sound about right for install? Should be about the same rate as a gear install...).
I haven't followed any threads on reflashing the computer to accept a rubi axle, you might read through a few to see if you can get the 4lo thing to work. Personally, I wouldn't worry about any of that and just direct wire it to a a switch like pretty much everyone else does.
Rather than a thousand dollar selectable, read through a few threads on the Detroit Truetrac. You can get both front and rear for less than a single selectable.
You are looking at over 5 grand for an aftermarket front d44 (plus shipping and labor for the swap?) If you are considering a new factory front d44, you might be better off skipping it and going aftermarket unless you can find a great deal. Prices on used factory 44's vary quite a bit, but guess somewhere in the 2-2.5k range. And to add a selectable, somewhere around a grand for the locker, plus air source/wiring/switches/etc depending on the locker you choose, plus the install labor. (400-600 sound about right for install? Should be about the same rate as a gear install...).
I haven't followed any threads on reflashing the computer to accept a rubi axle, you might read through a few to see if you can get the 4lo thing to work. Personally, I wouldn't worry about any of that and just direct wire it to a a switch like pretty much everyone else does.
Rather than a thousand dollar selectable, read through a few threads on the Detroit Truetrac. You can get both front and rear for less than a single selectable.
01-05-2015, 05:37 PM
#7
JK Junkie
Unlikely.
Why would you want the factory locker setup? Total failure in logic how it works.
Agree with other comments that a front isn't really useful unless you are in some serious rocks, otherwise the brake lock differential works awesome. I preferred that 90% of the time rather than putting the front locker on.
If you really want something that a Rubicon has, buy that part. Way cheaper. You can get a brand new front rubicon axle in 3.73 gearing for $1650. If you can change a control arm, you can swap the axle.
Why would you want the factory locker setup? Total failure in logic how it works.
Agree with other comments that a front isn't really useful unless you are in some serious rocks, otherwise the brake lock differential works awesome. I preferred that 90% of the time rather than putting the front locker on.
If you really want something that a Rubicon has, buy that part. Way cheaper. You can get a brand new front rubicon axle in 3.73 gearing for $1650. If you can change a control arm, you can swap the axle.
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01-06-2015, 05:26 AM
#8
Unlikely.
Why would you want the factory locker setup? Total failure in logic how it works.
Agree with other comments that a front isn't really useful unless you are in some serious rocks, otherwise the brake lock differential works awesome. I preferred that 90% of the time rather than putting the front locker on.
If you really want something that a Rubicon has, buy that part. Way cheaper. You can get a brand new front rubicon axle in 3.73 gearing for $1650. If you can change a control arm, you can swap the axle.
Why would you want the factory locker setup? Total failure in logic how it works.
Agree with other comments that a front isn't really useful unless you are in some serious rocks, otherwise the brake lock differential works awesome. I preferred that 90% of the time rather than putting the front locker on.
If you really want something that a Rubicon has, buy that part. Way cheaper. You can get a brand new front rubicon axle in 3.73 gearing for $1650. If you can change a control arm, you can swap the axle.
One last thought, I'm 50 miles from Silverton, CO and run those local mountain trails a lot in the summertime. Other than Poughkeesie Gulch I never use the lockers on my Rubicon. You may not need them at all, so I'd suggest you come on out and see for yourself before diving in.
01-06-2015, 06:23 AM
#9
JK Jedi
hey a fellow wisconsonite! IMO a 4 door has such a long wheelbase it needs to be lifted and larger tires to keep that belly from dragging on damn near everything. It may help us more if you explain how it didnt perform well for you? Were you getting hung up, dragging on stuff? Driver skill imo can make more difference than lockers. Ive seen guys locked on 37s not go where a guy open on 35s can walk right up....
01-06-2015, 08:05 AM
#10
Unlikely.
Why would you want the factory locker setup? Total failure in logic how it works.
Agree with other comments that a front isn't really useful unless you are in some serious rocks, otherwise the brake lock differential works awesome. I preferred that 90% of the time rather than putting the front locker on.
If you really want something that a Rubicon has, buy that part. Way cheaper. You can get a brand new front rubicon axle in 3.73 gearing for $1650. If you can change a control arm, you can swap the axle.
Why would you want the factory locker setup? Total failure in logic how it works.
Agree with other comments that a front isn't really useful unless you are in some serious rocks, otherwise the brake lock differential works awesome. I preferred that 90% of the time rather than putting the front locker on.
If you really want something that a Rubicon has, buy that part. Way cheaper. You can get a brand new front rubicon axle in 3.73 gearing for $1650. If you can change a control arm, you can swap the axle.
Agree here also. On our past July Rubicon trail run I was the only Sahara in the group (I'm in a 2 door also) who also happens to have 0 lockers. This was out of about 30 rigs. Open up front and LSD for the rear.
There was only 1 time I got hung up primarily because of clearance (I'm only on a 2.5 AEV lift with 35s) but a few shakes/tipping back & forth of my front bumper from a couple of the guys easily got me back on line. Other than that, when the crawling got a little more nasty I just used the e-brake a couple of clicks and I was golden.
A lot of off-roading is picking good lines. I was picking good lines (and definitely helps when you have great/experienced spotters). You do less off-roading than I do so I'd save your money. You want the best bang for your buck, I'd get beadlocks & 35s assuming you are lifted already and gusset the Cs + change the ball joints while you're at it. Now you'll have a better looking rig that's even more capable when you need it to be.
I cannot express how much of an advantage you get with beadlocks when you're able to air down to 10psi and the larger contact patch you now have just grips on absolutely everything without having to worry about losing the bead. If you don't have a winch yet, I'd get a winch also. Throw on some skids if you find yourself wheeling a little more later down the road.
Maertz brings up a good point about the longer wheelbase of the unlimited. It can get hung up much easier so you either want to be running a higher lift and/or 37's if you plan to do more wheeling. If you plan to run 37s, well that changes everything now LOL.
Last edited by DJ1; 01-06-2015 at 02:52 PM.