Lifted!!!! RC 2. Coil Kit
01-02-2009, 12:01 AM
#21
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I couldn't pass on the $219 sale price.
I already had Daystar spacers and was scoping shocks.
I couldn't have bought decent shocks for the price of the whole kit.
While I was adding stuff to my cart, I got caught up in the moment and threw in the quick discos.
01-02-2009, 06:28 AM
#22
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I will admit, pricing was one of driving factors for me also. Being a part of the Automotive Industry for the past 20 years I kinda know what the cost of things are and couldn't see myself paying some of the going rates on lifts.
I have also "lifted" several cars in the past (muscle cars for better stance and traction) with only shocks and springs and felt that the same could be done on our Jeeps.
The fact the RC products have proven quality in addition to the good things I have read here about customer service, it was a no brainer.
After installing I will say the product is of great quality, designed well, and has lived up to what it was advertised to do.
I have also "lifted" several cars in the past (muscle cars for better stance and traction) with only shocks and springs and felt that the same could be done on our Jeeps.
The fact the RC products have proven quality in addition to the good things I have read here about customer service, it was a no brainer.
After installing I will say the product is of great quality, designed well, and has lived up to what it was advertised to do.
01-02-2009, 05:29 PM
#23
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For me, it was all about price.
I couldn't pass on the $219 sale price.
I already had Daystar spacers and was scoping shocks.
I couldn't have bought decent shocks for the price of the whole kit.
While I was adding stuff to my cart, I got caught up in the moment and threw in the quick discos.
I couldn't pass on the $219 sale price.
I already had Daystar spacers and was scoping shocks.
I couldn't have bought decent shocks for the price of the whole kit.
While I was adding stuff to my cart, I got caught up in the moment and threw in the quick discos.
01-02-2009, 06:06 PM
#24
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Bruno,
Rough Country had the spacer kit @ $99.00 and the spring kit @ $219.00 during one of thier 24hr sales over the Xmas holiday.
I got totally lucky and happend to run across it when going to thier website to have a look at thier offerings.
Seems like quite a few here had the same luck and ordered.
Rough Country had the spacer kit @ $99.00 and the spring kit @ $219.00 during one of thier 24hr sales over the Xmas holiday.
I got totally lucky and happend to run across it when going to thier website to have a look at thier offerings.
Seems like quite a few here had the same luck and ordered.
01-03-2009, 08:10 PM
#26
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Installed today, all by my lonesome. I'm now enjoying a well-deserved beer. 
All told, about 4 hours invested.
I took it for a quick dash afterward and no shimmy or wobble.
My opinion of the ride was that big bumps were absorbed better, but the small ones felt like they were transmitted directly to the driver's butt.
The steering wheel was still dead center.
I didn't think I'd care about the rake, but it made a big improvement in appearance. Of course, with the rake gone, headlight adjustment was necessary.
A solid hour (plus) was spent on the fracking front shock upper mounts.
Let me advise anyone with a newer JK that is thinking about a lift and/or shocks: Do it with the Jeep as new as possible. Even with soaking them in WD-40 a day ahead and liberal application prior to the process, I snapped BOTH studs off during removal. So much for selling the shocks or re-installing if I sell the Jeep. <GRRRR> Chrysler must have asked the shock supplier to forego plating as a cost-cutting measure.
The RC 2.2 front shock upper mounts felt "funny" when tight. I thought the bushings needed compressed more before the nuts reached torque.
I bought quick discos with the kit, which actually made the front install easier. I look forward to the first time disconnecting and reconnecting in the field. I had to use some percussive persuasion to get the lock pins through the holes. (This was even after I had to open up the holes in 2 of the 4 ends. They were smaller than the pin diameter. -Rough Country: Take note of QC issues!)
I made rear brake line relocation brackets with stainless plates. I didn't take note before the lift, but I didn't like how close the flex lines sat to the rear shock. I may adjust the position of the brake lines on the brackets to take some of the bend out of the flex lines at normal ride height.
Rough Country instructions sucked. No step to remove the upper front shocks mounts and WTF was photo 3 supposed to be showing me? (You can't even see the factory isolator in the picture.)
Notes for first-timers:
Unbolt shock lower mounts before jacking.
Unbolt swaybar links before jacking.
Unbolt the e-brake cable support from under the rear floor before jacking.
Unbolt rear brake line brackets and unseat the rear ABS sensor wires from the frame before jacking.
I sprayed all threads exposed past nuts with white lithium when I was done. White lithium won't prevent rust, but should delay it some.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on Jeep lift kits, so my comments are helpful hints and not intended as professional advice.
All told, about 4 hours invested.
I took it for a quick dash afterward and no shimmy or wobble.
My opinion of the ride was that big bumps were absorbed better, but the small ones felt like they were transmitted directly to the driver's butt.
The steering wheel was still dead center.
I didn't think I'd care about the rake, but it made a big improvement in appearance. Of course, with the rake gone, headlight adjustment was necessary.
A solid hour (plus) was spent on the fracking front shock upper mounts.
Let me advise anyone with a newer JK that is thinking about a lift and/or shocks: Do it with the Jeep as new as possible. Even with soaking them in WD-40 a day ahead and liberal application prior to the process, I snapped BOTH studs off during removal. So much for selling the shocks or re-installing if I sell the Jeep. <GRRRR> Chrysler must have asked the shock supplier to forego plating as a cost-cutting measure.
The RC 2.2 front shock upper mounts felt "funny" when tight. I thought the bushings needed compressed more before the nuts reached torque.
I bought quick discos with the kit, which actually made the front install easier. I look forward to the first time disconnecting and reconnecting in the field. I had to use some percussive persuasion to get the lock pins through the holes. (This was even after I had to open up the holes in 2 of the 4 ends. They were smaller than the pin diameter. -Rough Country: Take note of QC issues!)
I made rear brake line relocation brackets with stainless plates. I didn't take note before the lift, but I didn't like how close the flex lines sat to the rear shock. I may adjust the position of the brake lines on the brackets to take some of the bend out of the flex lines at normal ride height.
Rough Country instructions sucked. No step to remove the upper front shocks mounts and WTF was photo 3 supposed to be showing me? (You can't even see the factory isolator in the picture.)
Notes for first-timers:
Unbolt shock lower mounts before jacking.
Unbolt swaybar links before jacking.
Unbolt the e-brake cable support from under the rear floor before jacking.
Unbolt rear brake line brackets and unseat the rear ABS sensor wires from the frame before jacking.
I sprayed all threads exposed past nuts with white lithium when I was done. White lithium won't prevent rust, but should delay it some.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on Jeep lift kits, so my comments are helpful hints and not intended as professional advice.
Last edited by sixt7gt350; 01-03-2009 at 08:13 PM.
01-03-2009, 08:33 PM
#27
You can unbolt that stuff on the ground or use a second jack under the axle. I put a second floor jack right under the differential, so I can adjust up or down depending on what I am trying to do.
01-04-2009, 05:39 AM
#28
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Installed today, all by my lonesome. I'm now enjoying a well-deserved beer.
All told, about 4 hours invested.
I took it for a quick dash afterward and no shimmy or wobble.
My opinion of the ride was that big bumps were absorbed better, but the small ones felt like they were transmitted directly to the driver's butt.
The steering wheel was still dead center.
I didn't think I'd care about the rake, but it made a big improvement in appearance. Of course, with the rake gone, headlight adjustment was necessary.
A solid hour (plus) was spent on the fracking front shock upper mounts.
Let me advise anyone with a newer JK that is thinking about a lift and/or shocks: Do it with the Jeep as new as possible. Even with soaking them in WD-40 a day ahead and liberal application prior to the process, I snapped BOTH studs off during removal. So much for selling the shocks or re-installing if I sell the Jeep. <GRRRR> Chrysler must have asked the shock supplier to forego plating as a cost-cutting measure.
The RC 2.2 front shock upper mounts felt "funny" when tight. I thought the bushings needed compressed more before the nuts reached torque.
I bought quick discos with the kit, which actually made the front install easier. I look forward to the first time disconnecting and reconnecting in the field. I had to use some percussive persuasion to get the lock pins through the holes. (This was even after I had to open up the holes in 2 of the 4 ends. They were smaller than the pin diameter. -Rough Country: Take note of QC issues!)
I made rear brake line relocation brackets with stainless plates. I didn't take note before the lift, but I didn't like how close the flex lines sat to the rear shock. I may adjust the position of the brake lines on the brackets to take some of the bend out of the flex lines at normal ride height.
Rough Country instructions sucked. No step to remove the upper front shocks mounts and WTF was photo 3 supposed to be showing me? (You can't even see the factory isolator in the picture.)
Notes for first-timers:
Unbolt shock lower mounts before jacking.
Unbolt swaybar links before jacking.
Unbolt the e-brake cable support from under the rear floor before jacking.
Unbolt rear brake line brackets and unseat the rear ABS sensor wires from the frame before jacking.
I sprayed all threads exposed past nuts with white lithium when I was done. White lithium won't prevent rust, but should delay it some.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on Jeep lift kits, so my comments are helpful hints and not intended as professional advice.
All told, about 4 hours invested.
I took it for a quick dash afterward and no shimmy or wobble.
My opinion of the ride was that big bumps were absorbed better, but the small ones felt like they were transmitted directly to the driver's butt.
The steering wheel was still dead center.
I didn't think I'd care about the rake, but it made a big improvement in appearance. Of course, with the rake gone, headlight adjustment was necessary.
A solid hour (plus) was spent on the fracking front shock upper mounts.
Let me advise anyone with a newer JK that is thinking about a lift and/or shocks: Do it with the Jeep as new as possible. Even with soaking them in WD-40 a day ahead and liberal application prior to the process, I snapped BOTH studs off during removal. So much for selling the shocks or re-installing if I sell the Jeep. <GRRRR> Chrysler must have asked the shock supplier to forego plating as a cost-cutting measure.
The RC 2.2 front shock upper mounts felt "funny" when tight. I thought the bushings needed compressed more before the nuts reached torque.
I bought quick discos with the kit, which actually made the front install easier. I look forward to the first time disconnecting and reconnecting in the field. I had to use some percussive persuasion to get the lock pins through the holes. (This was even after I had to open up the holes in 2 of the 4 ends. They were smaller than the pin diameter. -Rough Country: Take note of QC issues!)
I made rear brake line relocation brackets with stainless plates. I didn't take note before the lift, but I didn't like how close the flex lines sat to the rear shock. I may adjust the position of the brake lines on the brackets to take some of the bend out of the flex lines at normal ride height.
Rough Country instructions sucked. No step to remove the upper front shocks mounts and WTF was photo 3 supposed to be showing me? (You can't even see the factory isolator in the picture.)
Notes for first-timers:
Unbolt shock lower mounts before jacking.
Unbolt swaybar links before jacking.
Unbolt the e-brake cable support from under the rear floor before jacking.
Unbolt rear brake line brackets and unseat the rear ABS sensor wires from the frame before jacking.
I sprayed all threads exposed past nuts with white lithium when I was done. White lithium won't prevent rust, but should delay it some.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on Jeep lift kits, so my comments are helpful hints and not intended as professional advice.
Air Tools rocked on this install. Also, even with early 07 Jeep and 50K miles, I had no problems getting the shock bolts off.
You are right...instructions looked like they were written for som
eone who has done this a million times. Too much running to the computer, and guessing.
One thing I am really disappointed with is I have sent these concerns via email and live chat and have not received any response yet.
So far I love the lift, but hope I didn't make the wrong choice. I have yet to do my rear brakeline extension, but have the parts in hand, so won't take long.
01-04-2009, 04:00 PM
#29
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Installed today, all by my lonesome. I'm now enjoying a well-deserved beer.
All told, about 4 hours invested.
I took it for a quick dash afterward and no shimmy or wobble.
My opinion of the ride was that big bumps were absorbed better, but the small ones felt like they were transmitted directly to the driver's butt.
The steering wheel was still dead center.
I didn't think I'd care about the rake, but it made a big improvement in appearance. Of course, with the rake gone, headlight adjustment was necessary.
A solid hour (plus) was spent on the fracking front shock upper mounts.
Let me advise anyone with a newer JK that is thinking about a lift and/or shocks: Do it with the Jeep as new as possible. Even with soaking them in WD-40 a day ahead and liberal application prior to the process, I snapped BOTH studs off during removal. So much for selling the shocks or re-installing if I sell the Jeep. <GRRRR> Chrysler must have asked the shock supplier to forego plating as a cost-cutting measure.
The RC 2.2 front shock upper mounts felt "funny" when tight. I thought the bushings needed compressed more before the nuts reached torque.
I bought quick discos with the kit, which actually made the front install easier. I look forward to the first time disconnecting and reconnecting in the field. I had to use some percussive persuasion to get the lock pins through the holes. (This was even after I had to open up the holes in 2 of the 4 ends. They were smaller than the pin diameter. -Rough Country: Take note of QC issues!)
I made rear brake line relocation brackets with stainless plates. I didn't take note before the lift, but I didn't like how close the flex lines sat to the rear shock. I may adjust the position of the brake lines on the brackets to take some of the bend out of the flex lines at normal ride height.
Rough Country instructions sucked. No step to remove the upper front shocks mounts and WTF was photo 3 supposed to be showing me? (You can't even see the factory isolator in the picture.)
Notes for first-timers:
Unbolt shock lower mounts before jacking.
Unbolt swaybar links before jacking.
Unbolt the e-brake cable support from under the rear floor before jacking.
Unbolt rear brake line brackets and unseat the rear ABS sensor wires from the frame before jacking.
I sprayed all threads exposed past nuts with white lithium when I was done. White lithium won't prevent rust, but should delay it some.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on Jeep lift kits, so my comments are helpful hints and not intended as professional advice.
All told, about 4 hours invested.
I took it for a quick dash afterward and no shimmy or wobble.
My opinion of the ride was that big bumps were absorbed better, but the small ones felt like they were transmitted directly to the driver's butt.
The steering wheel was still dead center.
I didn't think I'd care about the rake, but it made a big improvement in appearance. Of course, with the rake gone, headlight adjustment was necessary.
A solid hour (plus) was spent on the fracking front shock upper mounts.
Let me advise anyone with a newer JK that is thinking about a lift and/or shocks: Do it with the Jeep as new as possible. Even with soaking them in WD-40 a day ahead and liberal application prior to the process, I snapped BOTH studs off during removal. So much for selling the shocks or re-installing if I sell the Jeep. <GRRRR> Chrysler must have asked the shock supplier to forego plating as a cost-cutting measure.
The RC 2.2 front shock upper mounts felt "funny" when tight. I thought the bushings needed compressed more before the nuts reached torque.
I bought quick discos with the kit, which actually made the front install easier. I look forward to the first time disconnecting and reconnecting in the field. I had to use some percussive persuasion to get the lock pins through the holes. (This was even after I had to open up the holes in 2 of the 4 ends. They were smaller than the pin diameter. -Rough Country: Take note of QC issues!)
I made rear brake line relocation brackets with stainless plates. I didn't take note before the lift, but I didn't like how close the flex lines sat to the rear shock. I may adjust the position of the brake lines on the brackets to take some of the bend out of the flex lines at normal ride height.
Rough Country instructions sucked. No step to remove the upper front shocks mounts and WTF was photo 3 supposed to be showing me? (You can't even see the factory isolator in the picture.)
Notes for first-timers:
Unbolt shock lower mounts before jacking.
Unbolt swaybar links before jacking.
Unbolt the e-brake cable support from under the rear floor before jacking.
Unbolt rear brake line brackets and unseat the rear ABS sensor wires from the frame before jacking.
I sprayed all threads exposed past nuts with white lithium when I was done. White lithium won't prevent rust, but should delay it some.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on Jeep lift kits, so my comments are helpful hints and not intended as professional advice.
01-04-2009, 04:24 PM
#30
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Read this post before attempting the install !! It's not a hard install but can be very dangerous weather your experienced or not. Be careful!!!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-talk-26/please-careful-looks-painful-67185/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-talk-26/please-careful-looks-painful-67185/