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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Lift Suggestions - $1400 budget

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Old 09-16-2015 | 06:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jawn_wong
I live in Chicago but like to get out to the trails as much as possible.

I'm going to narrow down my choices between the 2.5" AEV JK DualSport XT or the 2.5" RK Max Travel kit.
You wont be disappointed if you go with the Max Travel 2.5" System. It will clear your tires, flex like a champ, and drive down the highway great. Also, if you plan on upgrading in the future you can always adjust the arms to dial in your caster and pinion.

Good luck with the lift and glad you're looking at our system!!
Old 09-16-2015 | 02:45 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension
You wont be disappointed if you go with the Max Travel 2.5" System. It will clear your tires, flex like a champ, and drive down the highway great. Also, if you plan on upgrading in the future you can always adjust the arms to dial in your caster and pinion.

Good luck with the lift and glad you're looking at our system!!

Few questions!

I currently have a 2" coil spacer on my stock sport suspension. Other than flex/ride quality, will there be a huge noticeable difference as far as physical ride height with the 2.5" RK lift?

Also, is the only difference between the 2.5" RK Max Travel and "2.5" RK Flex System the rear control arms?
Old 09-16-2015 | 02:55 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by jawn_wong
Few questions!

I currently have a 2" coil spacer on my stock sport suspension. Other than flex/ride quality, will there be a huge noticeable difference as far as physical ride height with the 2.5" RK lift?

Also, is the only difference between the 2.5" RK Max Travel and "2.5" RK Flex System the rear control arms?
The lift height will not be drastically larger. If your vehicle is without HD bumpers, winch, full spare, it may sit slightly higher but nothing drastic. Only drastic change will hopefully be the improved ride quality.

You are correct, Flex only includes the front lower control arms. However, the flex system also does not include the rear brake lines or the rear swaybars. Either kit will do what you're looking for and ensure your vehicle tracks well down the road. The max travel is more complete, performs better, allows for more adjustability, and because of that it will also cost more.

RK
Old 09-16-2015 | 04:18 PM
  #14  
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Recently did the RK 2.5 Flex with 35" tires. Very happy with ride, etc. I ended up right around 3" of lift running a metal front bumper and Ace Rock Sliders. I think 3.5" is a bit much for 35s, and it opens you up to so many more potential issues.
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Old 09-16-2015 | 05:01 PM
  #15  
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I'm gonna derail the Rock Krawler love fest and tell you to look at Metalcloak. Better ride, no guessing on shocks, a legit lifetime no questions asked warranty (which transfer to a new buyer if you sell it), and you'll be happy when your joints are not seized after a winter. While some may not like the color, the gold coating on the MetalCloak arms is actually zinc chromate. Chemically, amazing stuff. It essentially gives its life to stop rust. The Duroflex joints will ride better, no questions asked. Obviously, since they are not solid joints.

Don't get caught up in all the BS about flex. The stock arms will flex well beyond any shock you will run.

No offense to the AEV people, but AEV took stock level quality stuff, matched it up for you, slightly tuned it, and then multiplied the cost by 4. Go get some higher spring rate coils off a heavy JKU and you'll save $1000.
Old 09-16-2015 | 05:35 PM
  #16  
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Oh no, stop the love fest!?

Last edited by TheDirtman; 09-16-2015 at 05:39 PM.
Old 09-16-2015 | 06:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by WI13JKURCrush
Recently did the RK 2.5 Flex with 35" tires. Very happy with ride, etc. I ended up right around 3" of lift running a metal front bumper and Ace Rock Sliders. I think 3.5" is a bit much for 35s, and it opens you up to so many more potential issues.
I've been on this forum since 2010 trying to absorb as much information as I could about purchasing a lift and making sure to get one that had everything that was needed, it was safe as possible and didn't break everything else while being a daily driver, with the desire to do the occasional weekend warrior off-roading without having to break the bank to do it. The only thing I was able to conclude over that time was the biggest tires I could go with where 35's and anything above that required major additional items which sounded like way overkill for my purposes. I had also concluded the higher I go with a lift, the better. So I was targeting 35's and a 4in lift. Now in the past 2 weeks of visiting this section of the forum, I've learned more from you and Dirtman that explains in simple detail as to why less is more......and it makes much more sense!!!

My JKU will be paid off after next month....no more monthly payments. With the extra monthly disposable income, my next steps were to finally start investing in a lift, rims/tires, tuners, re-gearing and skid plates. At least that's what I collected thus far of other items I will likely need. I started this week with a BBK since I was due for new rotors, calipers and pads anyway.

Last edited by Rednroll; 09-16-2015 at 06:12 PM.
Old 09-17-2015 | 07:15 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
I'm gonna derail the Rock Krawler love fest and tell you to look at Metalcloak. Better ride, no guessing on shocks, a legit lifetime no questions asked warranty (which transfer to a new buyer if you sell it), and you'll be happy when your joints are not seized after a winter. While some may not like the color, the gold coating on the MetalCloak arms is actually zinc chromate. Chemically, amazing stuff. It essentially gives its life to stop rust. The Duroflex joints will ride better, no questions asked. Obviously, since they are not solid joints.

Don't get caught up in all the BS about flex. The stock arms will flex well beyond any shock you will run.

No offense to the AEV people, but AEV took stock level quality stuff, matched it up for you, slightly tuned it, and then multiplied the cost by 4. Go get some higher spring rate coils off a heavy JKU and you'll save $1000.

AEV is already crossed off my list.

Which Metalcloak lift would you suggest? Like I said $1400 is my budget and I know Metalcloak runs more expensive.
Old 09-17-2015 | 08:45 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jawn_wong
AEV is already crossed off my list.

Which Metalcloak lift would you suggest? Like I said $1400 is my budget and I know Metalcloak runs more expensive.
JK Wrangler 3.5" True Dual-Rate Lift Kit

And then any of the 3 shocks they offer (ARB, RockSport, Fox). If you are on a budget, go with the RockSport. I doubt they are any less quality than the ARBs.
Old 09-17-2015 | 01:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
I'm gonna derail the Rock Krawler love fest and tell you to look at Metalcloak. Better ride, no guessing on shocks, a legit lifetime no questions asked warranty (which transfer to a new buyer if you sell it), and you'll be happy when your joints are not seized after a winter. While some may not like the color, the gold coating on the MetalCloak arms is actually zinc chromate. Chemically, amazing stuff. It essentially gives its life to stop rust. The Duroflex joints will ride better, no questions asked. Obviously, since they are not solid joints.

Don't get caught up in all the BS about flex. The stock arms will flex well beyond any shock you will run.

No offense to the AEV people, but AEV took stock level quality stuff, matched it up for you, slightly tuned it, and then multiplied the cost by 4. Go get some higher spring rate coils off a heavy JKU and you'll save $1000.
If you're saying our joints freeze after one winter. . . I'd like to invite you to Albany NY where we live and ride with us. I assure you our joints do not freeze. You can't stop the love fest if it's true.

As for springs. I'll put our triple rate up against anyone's linear rate, dual rate, or progressive rate. A dual rate spring is a linear spring with dead zone. That dead zone ensure the spring doesn't fall out. So you're taking old tech and making sure it doesn't fall out. Progressive rate coils and multi - functional rate coils offer an improvement in ride quality and stability. They still have a dead zone to ensure the coil doesn't fall out but they are also working to improve overall performance. On road it increases performance with transitions to decrease sway and roll. Off road it improves stability when the coil is at full stuff (bowing) and the coil is losing it's rate.

Good luck with the purchase but don't get us started on springs or snow. . . we know both very well.

RK


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