Yes, you can. But to install the cams, you need to cut bigger holes. So if you have problems with the cams, or decide to go to adj arms in the future, you have the added expense and hassle of welding up those bigger holes to get them back to the original size.

I've never used cams, so no personal experience with them either way. Just from all the feedback here, I decided to go straight to a single set of front adjustables. But like I said earlier, do your own research so you know the pro's/con's going in...

 

I am wanting a good amount of lift to clear the 35's at full stuff. Is the 2.5 teraflex spring lift a good choice, how much diffrence bewteen the 2.5 and the 3 in teraflex as far as real world lift.

 

Northridge has a kit with OME Springs that will get you the minimum of where you need to be. There is also a write up on it here.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

Other than that I think you are better off to go the low center of gravity route, 1" body lift, fender trim and 1/2" leveling kit. That clears your 35s and then you can save your dollars for a more complete suspension lift.

 

Just call Ben at Rough Country and he'll get you hooked up! If you have an $800.00 budget, you can get the RC 4" lift and then hitup Dave at Northridge to get a set of control arms, IF you find that you have flighty steering and need them. Chances are, you'll have enogh left over to get the JKS front adjustable trackbar from Dave as well! Nevermind all of the sheeple that sit here and repeat everything else they've read to you, without using any of the lifts that you asked about! Go to the RC lift club thread and read about all of the people that are very happy with them! I'll save you from having to search for the thread. Here it is: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ight=lift+club

 

The 2.5" spring lift will give you roughly 3 in for the front and 2 in for the rear. The 3" lift will give you close to 4 in for the front ant 3 for the rear.

I think the Teraflex 2.5" spring lift with the addition of an adjustable front trackbar makes for an excellent kit. Even better if you get at least the adjustable lower front control arms to adjust your caster. But at that point you are well over a 1000 bucks or so.

 

The 2.5" coil lifts with shocks from Teraflex or OME will give you plenty of clearance for 35" tires and a lower center of gravity. You should be able get into either one for under $800. Longer rear swaybar links, front adjustable trackbar, rear track bracket, brake line extensions, and bump stop extensions are often included with with these lift kits but can be added later. I've used both lifts and they both give an excellent ride on and off road.

 

I'm running the RC 2.5 with 35's,had to do slight fender fender flare trimming.I used OME shocks and am adding as I go. Its pulling it all off pretty good.

 

There's more than enough information out there to strongly urge anyone to stay away from cam bolts, and personally no matter what lift I was using I would add in lower control arms if they weren't present.

I don't have a problem with rough country, but from what I see they have several products which I believe to be incomplete of essential items, especially what the OP is looking at for a 4" lift. If the desire is to get 35s on a JK you certainly can get it done without a 4" lift. Likewise, the amount of parts to have what I believe to be necessities at a 4" lift exceed the $800 budget of the original poster.

There are hundreds if not thousands of posts here with people looking for solutions as a result of getting the lift without regard to the things that make it work efficiently and trouble free. That's not to say that you can't get there with an RC lift, but you would be remiss if you stated as being anything more than incomplete or with a laundry list of compromises.

Myself, I made a list of what I wanted my kit to include before I went shopping. I also read the advise of many and the problems of others before defining my checklist. While I certainly have some reservations about where I ended up, I didn't fall short on at least the parts that were necessary.

I don't think you need to look any further than the FAQ to see where you need to be for a 4" lift. Anything less is a compromise, and again if the primary objective is to get 35s installed, there are better and more cost effective solutions.

Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 4" lift?
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...72&postcount=2

 

I don't believe I ever told the OP to use the cam bolts. Nor did he say he was using the cam bolts. The cam bolt usage issue was an assumption on the other people that have posted in here's part. Not mine. In fact, re-read my post, and you'll see that I told him to get CA's from Dave at Northridge, as well, as a trackbar. Therefore I am not remiss.

I did not say that it is 100% complete for the wheeling that you do. Nobody has stopped to give the OP any credit for doing his own research into his lift, based on his needs and his wheeling style. He has an $800 budget and he's narrowed it down to 2 different lifts in the $500 range. This means that he knows that he has to buy other things to help make his kit more complete!


Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 4" lift?
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...72&postcount=2[/QUOTE]

Let's really look at the FAQ, shall we? The RC lift does have the 4 coils, It does have the bumpstops(integrated into the shock) it does have the shocks, it does have the brake line extension brackets(which are the minimum necessary if he plans on doing much wheeling that requires articulation which mudding does NOT!) it does have the longer rear links, and the OEM rears get moved to the front, No adjustable front track bar. It does have the trackbar relo bracket, and I told the OP to see DAve to get that although it is NOT MANDATORY for having a trouble-free lift. Same is true for the rear. Dropped pitman arm, well, RC is one of only 2 manufacturers that supply those with their lifts, so it must not be that important to have, now is it? OME, doesn't supply one, RE doesn't, Currie doesn't, Clayton doesn't, Teraflex doesn't, etc. If it's MANDATORY to have all 8 CA's be adjustable, then why don't they come from the factory with them adjustable? Isn't it possible that a manufacturer can get the right length CA's and make them non-adjustable, just like they did at the factory? RC does have that kit, and with the forum discount I'll bet he could get that lift within his budget. New DS's front and rear? Maybe on a 2 door auto where the buyer bought a kit that said 3.5" and it ended up being 5" and he wheels it hard, disco'ed every time. It's been proven over and over again, DS's are not necessary on a 4dr in the rear, and MAY be necessary on a 4dr auto in the front. If you put it under extreme articulation you can rip the boot. Again, I ask you, what type of wheeling is the OP doing?

 

RC sells a 4" lift with all control arms for like 900