Lift Kit Question
08-17-2012, 06:40 PM
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Lift Kit Question
Hello,
I recently purchased my first jeep, it is a 2012 Black forest green Sahara JKU. I dont know a whole lot about how this all works so i am hoping somebody could help me.
Im looking to lift my jeep. I heard that if you lift it over a certain amout you need to swap out your drive shaft... How much is that? Cause i was thinking lifting about 3 - 4 inches.
If someone could help me with this that would be awesome!
I recently purchased my first jeep, it is a 2012 Black forest green Sahara JKU. I dont know a whole lot about how this all works so i am hoping somebody could help me.
Im looking to lift my jeep. I heard that if you lift it over a certain amout you need to swap out your drive shaft... How much is that? Cause i was thinking lifting about 3 - 4 inches.
If someone could help me with this that would be awesome!
08-17-2012, 06:48 PM
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JK Junkie
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Welcome to the Forum 
Below is a link that you can read up on to familiarize yourself with what type of lift to choose. It really depends on how big of a tire you want to run (33s, 35s or 37s).
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...17/#post211272
Typically a 3" lift can allow you to run 35s but a 2.5" kit can suffice and a 4" lift can allow you to run 37s.
Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
NOTE: On a 2012-Up, you will want to install a new front drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual transmission. Assuming you install new, longer shocks with your lift, the extra droop you will see at a flex will cause the slip shaft boot on the drive shaft to tear. However, that is just one problem you will encounter. Even if you install exhaust spacers or relocate the cross over, the CV boot at the output shaft will be sitting at a significant state of pinch and this will cause it to fail prematurely.
Below is a link that you can read up on to familiarize yourself with what type of lift to choose. It really depends on how big of a tire you want to run (33s, 35s or 37s).https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...17/#post211272
Typically a 3" lift can allow you to run 35s but a 2.5" kit can suffice and a 4" lift can allow you to run 37s.
Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
NOTE: On a 2012-Up, you will want to install a new front drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual transmission. Assuming you install new, longer shocks with your lift, the extra droop you will see at a flex will cause the slip shaft boot on the drive shaft to tear. However, that is just one problem you will encounter. Even if you install exhaust spacers or relocate the cross over, the CV boot at the output shaft will be sitting at a significant state of pinch and this will cause it to fail prematurely.
08-17-2012, 06:48 PM
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Welcome, I'm almost as new as you (got the exact same jeep as you three months ago) cant really answer your questions but, look into the exhaust aswell. I remember seeing something about an extension required for clearance in the front wile doing my research. Good luck
Cheers
Cheers
08-17-2012, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Goodie
Welcome, I'm almost as new as you (got the exact same jeep as you three months ago) cant really answer your questions but, look into the exhaust aswell. I remember seeing something about an extension required for clearance in the front wile doing my research. Good luck
Cheers
Cheers
08-18-2012, 11:52 AM
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Being that you have an unlimited, the front shaft is the main concern. As said, 3" is where you start having a potential issue, expecially when disconnecting the front axle when off road