lift help needed!
06-07-2011, 10:00 AM
#1
JK Newbie
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lift help needed!
I'm looking at getting a 2" Old man emu kit for a 2011 rubicon.
One kit is sold with just shocks and coils and is supposed to be all you need.
Is this true? I hear a lot of conflicting things.
Also, since i will have a bumper and a winch i'm looking at the Heavy duty coils. I will have a hardtop on the jeep but i'm worried that the rear coils will be too stiff. Is anyone running this setup?
One kit is sold with just shocks and coils and is supposed to be all you need.
Is this true? I hear a lot of conflicting things.
Also, since i will have a bumper and a winch i'm looking at the Heavy duty coils. I will have a hardtop on the jeep but i'm worried that the rear coils will be too stiff. Is anyone running this setup?
06-07-2011, 10:23 AM
#3
JK Jedi Master
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Expect 3", or a bit more, from the HD coils. Nothing else is needed, but as you go taller, other components may be wanted.
Your caster will be low, causing flighty handling.
The links will be short, causing the swaybars to be angled down.
Both axles will be shifted over to one side.
Stock bumpstops, so you are more likely to have tire/fender contact, or over-compress the shocks.
Stock brake lines, so you are more likely to rip one off when flexed.
etc.
Put some thought into your decision...
Your caster will be low, causing flighty handling.
The links will be short, causing the swaybars to be angled down.
Both axles will be shifted over to one side.
Stock bumpstops, so you are more likely to have tire/fender contact, or over-compress the shocks.
Stock brake lines, so you are more likely to rip one off when flexed.
etc.
Put some thought into your decision...
06-07-2011, 10:52 AM
#4
JK Super Freak
I have the HD coils and they are not too stiff. I had the light duty coils and they were really nice, but sagged under any weight.
You will need rear sway bar links. The stock rears you can move to the front sway bar, but you need to put longer ones in back.
Your brake lines should be ok, if you feel you are too high in the back make some brackets to drop the brake lines ($2 at Home Depot) or by Teraflexs's brakets for $20
The next thing you may want is adjustable trackbars to center your axle housings.
As nthinuf said then front lower control arms can be added if you feel the caster is not enough and the steering is flighty. And bump stops can be nice for his same reasons.
Also watch out if you have an auto unlimited for your front driveshaft boot ripping on the trans skid plate or the bolt on the trans pan.
You will need rear sway bar links. The stock rears you can move to the front sway bar, but you need to put longer ones in back.
Your brake lines should be ok, if you feel you are too high in the back make some brackets to drop the brake lines ($2 at Home Depot) or by Teraflexs's brakets for $20
The next thing you may want is adjustable trackbars to center your axle housings.
As nthinuf said then front lower control arms can be added if you feel the caster is not enough and the steering is flighty. And bump stops can be nice for his same reasons.
Also watch out if you have an auto unlimited for your front driveshaft boot ripping on the trans skid plate or the bolt on the trans pan.
06-08-2011, 01:08 AM
#5
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I have the HD coils and they are not too stiff. I had the light duty coils and they were really nice, but sagged under any weight.
You will need rear sway bar links. The stock rears you can move to the front sway bar, but you need to put longer ones in back.
Your brake lines should be ok, if you feel you are too high in the back make some brackets to drop the brake lines ($2 at Home Depot) or by Teraflexs's brakets for $20
The next thing you may want is adjustable trackbars to center your axle housings.
As nthinuf said then front lower control arms can be added if you feel the caster is not enough and the steering is flighty. And bump stops can be nice for his same reasons.
Also watch out if you have an auto unlimited for your front driveshaft boot ripping on the trans skid plate or the bolt on the trans pan.
You will need rear sway bar links. The stock rears you can move to the front sway bar, but you need to put longer ones in back.
Your brake lines should be ok, if you feel you are too high in the back make some brackets to drop the brake lines ($2 at Home Depot) or by Teraflexs's brakets for $20
The next thing you may want is adjustable trackbars to center your axle housings.
As nthinuf said then front lower control arms can be added if you feel the caster is not enough and the steering is flighty. And bump stops can be nice for his same reasons.
Also watch out if you have an auto unlimited for your front driveshaft boot ripping on the trans skid plate or the bolt on the trans pan.
06-08-2011, 11:07 AM
#6
JK Jedi Master
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4door auto. OME HD's, appx 3.25" with bumper/winch. Front and rear adj trackbars installed with lift, as well as longer rear links, front disco's, and longer brake lines. Running 295/75/16 terra's, right at 32" actual height sitting under the jeep.
Offroad - Went out to a big rock to flex and check everything after install. When disconnected and flexed, the 32" tires rubbed the flares enough to rip them off. I don't believe that that shocks were over-compressed, but the coils were fully stacked. At the same time that the front psgr side was compressed, the rear psgr side 'extended' brake line was ripped off the frame. (There are some pics in my profile of the tire contact and the brake line damage).
Onroad - The handling was very flighty.
Added
- Front lower arms to correct the caster.
- 2" front and rear lower bumpstops.
- Rear brake line extension brackets.
The front tires were still contacting the flares when disconnected, but it was minimal. The coils were no longer over-compressing. And the rear 'extended' brake lines were no longer over-extending.
Driveshaft - There were some scrape marks and gouges on the front driveshaft from contact with the the crossmember skid, but the boot did not contact the corner of the tranny. Within appx 5k miles, mostly street, the front rzeppa at the tcase started spitting grease. It was replaced with an aftermarket shaft.
As mentioned in my first post - put some thought into your build decisions...
Offroad - Went out to a big rock to flex and check everything after install. When disconnected and flexed, the 32" tires rubbed the flares enough to rip them off. I don't believe that that shocks were over-compressed, but the coils were fully stacked. At the same time that the front psgr side was compressed, the rear psgr side 'extended' brake line was ripped off the frame. (There are some pics in my profile of the tire contact and the brake line damage).
Onroad - The handling was very flighty.
Added
- Front lower arms to correct the caster.
- 2" front and rear lower bumpstops.
- Rear brake line extension brackets.
The front tires were still contacting the flares when disconnected, but it was minimal. The coils were no longer over-compressing. And the rear 'extended' brake lines were no longer over-extending.
Driveshaft - There were some scrape marks and gouges on the front driveshaft from contact with the the crossmember skid, but the boot did not contact the corner of the tranny. Within appx 5k miles, mostly street, the front rzeppa at the tcase started spitting grease. It was replaced with an aftermarket shaft.
As mentioned in my first post - put some thought into your build decisions...