JKtak

Hi All - I bought the RC 2.5" coil/shock "skeleton" kit and was wondering if anyone can provide some advice on how I should build off it, keeping in mind I'm not made of money

'07 JK mostly used for DD so I want to build to last (minimal offroad)

So far on my list I have:
-Rear trac bar bracket
-Upgrade steering stabilizer
-Adjustable control arms (are they needed? I've read horror stories on cams)
-Front/Rear CV Drive shafts (only needed 3" and above?)

I've bought 295/70/17 tires and have already set aside a budget for a 4.56 regear (3.21 is BRUTAL even on stock 31s!)

Thanks!

thecoz

Throw that shitty RC stuff away!!! I have it too and am in the process of replacing everything. Their customer service is good that's about it...

4W-Jive

I just put on springs and shocks netting about 2.5-3". Homemade brake line drop brackets in the rear and freed them up in the front, sway bar links in the front, JKS track bar up front and I will match it in the rear in a week. Good to go.

PET77

While RC might not be the best thing to go for, here are some remarks as to what are you going to need to have a proper lift:

1) rear trackbar bracket for sure - you can get cheap one from TF for cca 35 USD = do it!
2) steering stabilizer is absolutely not needed = that would be 150 USD thrown down the drain
3) while you willl need to correct your caster, going for adjustable CAs is another waste of money, so if your on a budget, go get the Rubicon Express control arm bolt relocation brackets (this will reset your castor similar to using the cambolt, but without its downside) = they cost less than a fraction of the price of CAs
4) CV driveshafts will not be needed and since you dont have a pentastar, you dont even need a exhaust spacer = money well saved
5) fabricate some brake line relocation brackets (check the web for some designs or buy them, they only cost around 25 USD a pair)
6) buy some pucks/tf bumpstops, so that you dont overflex your coils
7) get TF rear longer swaybar links (aka the ones that are supplied to their BB kits), install them on the rear and use the rear in the front
8) check whether your front axle havent moved to much to one side (if your lift gets over 3"-3.5", it usually does) - if neede invest in some adjustable TB, you can get new from JKS for about 160 USD

And you should be good to go - on a budget...

hooper

This post has good info for a good buget build. Expect you front axle to shift so plan on buying a front adjustable track bar. The stock lower CA's break alot so I would recommend front lower adjustable CA's right off the bat even if you dont wheel alot. Like it was said above you might need it for castor correction any way.

kjeeper10

Lets get the lift on. You may or may not need lowers or AEV brackets for caster.
It all depends how much lift you actually get.
Not everybody needs them. A new SS helps firm things up but more of a bandaid for other problems.

At 2.5" of lift the axles only shift about 3/8"
As long as you don't have any handling issues you will be fine,

The rear bracket does a pretty good job at centering the axle. Axle side is preferred because it keeps the roll center spec higher in the rear for handling.
A frame drop bracket won't do this. Honesty.. I would run nothing over a frame drop bracket, or a axle bracket over a adjustable TB at a 2.5"
height.

Ken