Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Which Lift?

Thread Tools
 
Old 01-13-2011, 03:40 PM
  #1  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
lhoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Georgetown, TX
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Which Lift?

I can really use some help from those of you who really know your suspension, I have done some research, but have to confess I am not a wiz at "car stuff."

I have a new 2010 Rescue Green Unlimited Sport that I am purchasing. It will be my daily driver and something I can go off roading in like in Big Bend, etc. I will not be doing any hard core rock crawling.

I am having a variety of things added to the vehicle.

One is going with 35" tires. The dealership had done a 2" body lift before I found the vehicle. I am adding Smittybuilt bumpers (front and rear w/ swing arm) and a Smittybuilt winch. I would like to add more lift and basic choice is either 4" Skyjacker lift (which I can tell Skyjacker is not highly regarded on here) or 2.5 Teraflex lift with shocks (from reading I can tell people prefer the TeraFlex lifts).

Is the choice obvious due to quality and how will driving be with these kits? Any suggestions, thoughts, critiques?

I have to decide tomorrow.

Thanks,

Lee
Old 01-13-2011, 05:24 PM
  #2  
JK Jedi Master
FJOTM Winner
 
nthinuf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes on 154 Posts
Default

You're sure it's a body lift and not a spacer or coil lift? Asking just because I don't recall ever seeing any posts about dealer installed body lifts...

6" is a ton of lift for 35's. Do you have plans for 37's or bigger? If not, the TF 2.5 would be the better choice. Those TF coils will give a bit over 3" on your 4door, so will still end up with plenty of room. Another consideration is your driveshafts. I assume you are in a rush because the dealer will be installing so you can keep your 'warranty'? Be sure to not only get it in writing, but to specifically ask if they will be replacing your driveshafts when they go out.

My opinion, get the TF, chop your flares, and tell them to take the BL off. Or skip the coils, keep the BL, and chop your flares.

If you do decide on 6 inches of lift and 37's, remember that you have a D30 up front, and will need to strengthen it. And add the driveshafts at some point. And adj arms for each new shaft. And...
Old 01-13-2011, 05:26 PM
  #3  
Former Vendor
 
Rock Krawler Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Albany New York
Posts: 1,644
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Absolutely, stay with a 2.5" suspension system. If you loose the body lift, you can jump to a 3.5" suspension system, but that is all you need. If you combine a 4" suspension lift and 2" body lift, it will look crazy on only 35's. If you get a chance, check out our 2.5" Stock Mod, or 2.5" Max. Travel Systems. They might fit what you are looking for very well.

Rock Krawler
Old 01-13-2011, 05:37 PM
  #4  
JK Enthusiast
 
Pluke the 2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Some Place in Africa
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by lhoy
but have to confess I am not a wiz at "car stuff."
Old 01-13-2011, 06:49 PM
  #5  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
lhoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Georgetown, TX
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It appears I also need to have it regeared to 5.13. Sounds like the 2.5 is the right height and the salesman said "body lift" so I will ask further on this. My friend is the financial manager over 10 different dealerships so he is working with me on this.

So the driveshaft is an issue for the 4 dr? I thought I remember reading that was mainly on the 2dr? What kind of cost for the drive shaft?
Old 01-13-2011, 06:54 PM
  #6  
JK Jedi Master
 
mkjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hammond Louisiana
Posts: 15,665
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lhoy
It appears I also need to have it regeared to 5.13. Sounds like the 2.5 is the right height and the salesman said "body lift" so I will ask further on this. My friend is the financial manager over 10 different dealerships so he is working with me on this.

So the driveshaft is an issue for the 4 dr? I thought I remember reading that was mainly on the 2dr? What kind of cost for the drive shaft?
Here's a good place to start and answer alot of your questions you may have....

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ery-Newbie-Has
Old 01-13-2011, 07:18 PM
  #7  
JK Jedi Master
FJOTM Winner
 
nthinuf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes on 154 Posts
Default

It appears I also need to have it regeared to 5.13.
Which transmission? Manual, put the new tires on and drive it, then decide. Auto, put the new tires on, turn OD Off, and drive it. See how 'you' think it performs.

Sounds like the 2.5 is the right height
Depends on your preferences. Chop the flares, and you can run 35's with no lift. TF 2.5 coils give over 3" on 4doors, add in the 2" BL, and .... 5" is way more than needed for 35's.

So the driveshaft is an issue for the 4 dr? I thought I remember reading that was mainly on the 2dr?
Anyone that tells you 100% you will not need a driveshaft is flat out lying to you. There are just too many variables involved. All you can do is factor in all of the specifics and make some edumacated guesses.

Total lift height (from coils/spacers, not BL)
Disconnected or not
Which transmission
2door or 4door
Axles centered or not
Longer travel shocks, or shorter shocks
Driving habits (all on-road, some light trails, max flex in the rocks)
etc

In general,
2doors have more issues with the rear shaft than 4doors.
Auto's have more issues with the front shaft than manuals.
People are getting front boot/tcase contact with as little as 2.5".
The steeper angles from the lift cause the joints at the tcase to pinch, and eventually wear through. (some are over 4" and have no issues. I lost my front 4door shaft with roughly the height of those TF2.5 coils. And some are losing shafts with less lift. Just depends...

Factor in all of the above, then make a guess about your specific build.


What kind of cost for the drive shaft?
$450-$550, depending on brand. You will also need a set of adj ca's for each new shaft. I am assuming they won't be included with either lift? (DO NOT let them install cams!! )

But as noted above, ask them what their policy is. If you lose a shaft due to the lift, it 'should' be covered. The downside is that you will keep breaking them.

Last edited by nthinuf; 01-13-2011 at 07:22 PM.



Quick Reply: Which Lift?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:17 PM.