LCOG Suspension Set up
#1
LCOG Suspension Set up
What would be a good set up for a LCOG (low center of gravity) suspension?
- Jeep would be daily driver; not really a rock crawler.
- Needs to handle very well at highway speeds as well as off road.
- Would be running no bigger than 35" tires probably 33" and not lifted more than 2.5".
- Can be a mix of different manufacturers suspension components, flat fenders, etc. Please be specific on parts and maker.
- If replacing stock coils would you look at linear or progressive or combo.
- Normal bumps stops or something like sumo springs or terraflex speed bumps
- Budget of about $1,300 in parts
What all would you look at and, if you had to do it in steps due to costs, in what order?
Thanks.
- Jeep would be daily driver; not really a rock crawler.
- Needs to handle very well at highway speeds as well as off road.
- Would be running no bigger than 35" tires probably 33" and not lifted more than 2.5".
- Can be a mix of different manufacturers suspension components, flat fenders, etc. Please be specific on parts and maker.
- If replacing stock coils would you look at linear or progressive or combo.
- Normal bumps stops or something like sumo springs or terraflex speed bumps
- Budget of about $1,300 in parts
What all would you look at and, if you had to do it in steps due to costs, in what order?
Thanks.
#2
I'd suggest the Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod, SS brake lines, quick disconnects, and rear trackbar relocate bracket. Basically, same as the Max Travel kit without the control arms. That's the exact set-up I run with 2" rear bumpstops and spring correction wedges and I have no complaints. Running 37x12.50-17's, too. And it wont' cost you $1300 in parts, either.
#3
I'd suggest the Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod, SS brake lines, quick disconnects, and rear trackbar relocate bracket. Basically, same as the Max Travel kit without the control arms. That's the exact set-up I run with 2" rear bumpstops and spring correction wedges and I have no complaints. Running 37x12.50-17's, too. And it wont' cost you $1300 in parts, either.
I thought this kit comes with the rear track bar relocate bracket correct? It also looks like it comes with quick disconnects. Did you get some that were not included in the kit? If so, specifically which ones?
Also, I thought the spring correction wedges were not needed for this type of kit (lift height). Am I correct, or did you get them just to make sure everything lined up?
Thanks.
#4
How does your rig ride and handle on road, highway/interstate and off road? Main reason I ask about highway is because we have a major interstate that cuts right thru town and I am on it everyday. Not long drives, but still on it at 65-70 mph everyday.
I thought this kit comes with the rear track bar relocate bracket correct? It also looks like it comes with quick disconnects. Did you get some that were not included in the kit? If so, specifically which ones?
Also, I thought the spring correction wedges were not needed for this type of kit (lift height). Am I correct, or did you get them just to make sure everything lined up?
Thanks.
I thought this kit comes with the rear track bar relocate bracket correct? It also looks like it comes with quick disconnects. Did you get some that were not included in the kit? If so, specifically which ones?
Also, I thought the spring correction wedges were not needed for this type of kit (lift height). Am I correct, or did you get them just to make sure everything lined up?
Thanks.
As for the kit, yeah, I think the only thing it doesn't come with is the SS brake lines. And if you decide later down the road you want to add control arms, etc., their kits are fully upgradable, so you won't have to buy all new components. Just the ones you want to add.
As for the correction wedges, I found that my driver rear spring was rubbing on something (I forget what) so the correction wedges were the cheap answer, pushing the bottom of the spring forward on their perch. I think it may've been rubbing on the rear track bar, but I'm not 100% certain, as it's been a while back.
Now the only reason you'd need brake lines is if you want a more positive brake feel, since SS won't bulge under pressure like the factory rubbers do. The stock brake lines are plenty long......you just have to reroute them. In stock form, they're routed through the lower shock mount on the axle, which is pretty stupid IMO. My stock lines were actually longer than my Crown SS lines.
#6
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#8
For what your describing I would just run a TF 1 1/2" Puck leveling kit if your gonna run 33's. Will set you back around $150.00. For 35's you could do a budget boost and maybe a fender trim for 35's.
#9
35's and flat flares can be run with no lift at all. You won't have much suspension travel but if you aren't taking your rig through the rocks it really isn't needed.
Take a look at our Facebook page and you can see pictures of our JK on 35's with a 2.5" lift. You can also see pictures it with 33's and the same lift.
https://www.facebook.com/Smashboogie4x4
PM us if you have any questions or would like any prices!
Take a look at our Facebook page and you can see pictures of our JK on 35's with a 2.5" lift. You can also see pictures it with 33's and the same lift.
https://www.facebook.com/Smashboogie4x4
PM us if you have any questions or would like any prices!
#10
It depends on how much weight on the bumpers. Even JKS 2 inch is going to get ya more than 2.5- 140 lb ft/inch if running 0-75 lbs. OME 2.25 light will be lower. Check out the ARB application guide for exact rates. To keep it close to 1.75-2.0 inches, an OEM spring "swap," is the best option, and fine tuning with an ACOS or single puck.