Invest2m4

^^^^this right here. Assuming it's a stock drag link, highly unlikely it's the cause. The track bar will cause the steering wheel to be off. Double check the track bar bolts are torqued. If it's an adjustable track bar, the jam nut needs to be torqued hard (like 200 ft lbs).

If that isn't it, pull the track bar and inspect the bolt holes to see if they are elongated.

Invest2m4

Just looked the kit up. Did you install a new pitman arm?? That bolt needs to be torqued hard as well.

scratchkenny

Yes stock drag link, no adjustable track bar. bolt holes look fine.

scratchkenny

Yes I installed the pitman arm that came with the lift. Torqued damn hard.

Collyn

Damn hard for some, is damn weak for others. Hah. Torque wrench. Use it. See if damn hard is enough.

Mark Doiron

Pitman Arm Shaft 185 ft-lbs.
Drag Link Ball Stud to Pitman Arm 77 ft-lbs.

Invest2m4

This is the only logical issue since you didn't swap anything else.

Double check you reused the lock washer above the nut. Technically, you should replace the lock washer.

Use a market and draw a fine line across the pitman arm nut and shaft. That way you can see if something might be rotating.

Torque to 185. Drive. If the steering moves, go back and see of the nut backed off. If so, loctite it.

scratchkenny

Yep the washer is there, I marked the pitman arm, the drag link where you twist to adjust the steering wheel with a sharpie went for a drive when I got back check and every thing is in the same place.

scratchkenny

I have a set of Rubicon rails I will give to some one that can come over to my house and give me a hand. Hampton Roads Va. area

Sahara Lee

Pitman arm torque is critical. I initially torqued to about 160 ftlbs and had play. Got a 4' piece of steel tube over the arm end for hold-back and a 250 ftlb rated torque wrench. Once I got to 185 ftlbs no more play.

"If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?"
- John Wooden