Well you don't have to jack it up to swap out a front track bar. Just remove the two bolts holding it in and remove it. Nothing will happen. Have it parked on level ground of course.

Then adjust the end of your new bar to exactly match the distance (hole to hole) on your stock bar. Then put it in place and bolt it up. And if you don't have a torque wrench just crank on it with your wrench. If you can't get the holes to line up have someone push on your jeep on one side or the other. I have done this swap twice and its literally a 10 minute job.

If you want the axle centered up measure from the edge of your fenders to a spot on your wheel. Do this with the stock track bar on. If you have it lifted a bit right now it is already scooted over to the left a little. Let's say you are over to the left a 1/4 inch. Just increase the length of your new track bar by 1/4 inch and viola!!! Centered axle.

I actually left my front axle scooted over to the left about an extra half inch. What that did was let me fully flex the suspension without tearing off the drive shaft boot, even after five years of wheeling it in the Rockies.

The flip kit probably works for a 4 inch plus lift. You may very well induce a wobble if you put that kit on without having your lift in place. You want your pitman arm and the track bar very close to parallel. There is a lot to it to get it right, do a search on the board as there is some great info here on keeping your suspension happy and death wobble free.

I remember you live in Boston so maybe a ride to your folks place is a better idea.

 

Mark..... I know, that you know better. Steering stabilizer on a track bar??!! Think about that for a minute

 

Doesn't go on a drag link either, which is what the OP is referring to. Doh!

 

Edit: now I'm confused ... Lol

What the f***
The synergy bar is so easy to install. I did not have to touch the adjuster. Remove old. Rock jeep to center. Bolt up to frame end leaving loose. Spin out/in heim to line up to axle mount hole. I snugged and drove forward/reverse a couple times. Rotated joint out 1/2 turn. Bolted up and torqued.


2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed

 

Doh! LOL. Brain fart.

 

It doesn't stock, you're right. It goes to the tie rod, of course. But there's no reason it can't go to the drag link, and on many Panhard rod vehicles it certainly does--including Land Rovers. And my Jeep, also.

 

OP, I apologize for confusing you. You clearly wrote Synergy track bar and I stupidly read Synergy tie rod. Everything I wrote I was thinking tie rod until my error was pointed out to me. I am sorry for confusing you.

As an aside, this is the problem with trying to participate in forums and such on a phone, as I was yesterday. You have such a tiny little port on which to see what you're reading and writing and it's difficult to refer back and forth as you do so. I need to be more careful.

 

I could see it.. I worked at an off-road shop once and there were certain brands or things we didn't like to install. We certainly recommended clients go elsewhere for products we didn't want to deal with. Sometimes it isn't worth the companies time to install a product and then deal with all the follow up support and negativity that could go along with it.

It used to be so annoying when someone would come in with a lift they didn't buy from us. It was always a standard lift with no track bars, control arms, etc.. always like 4.5 - 6 inches and crappy shocks.. Then we'd spend countless hours with the client while they complained about the bad ride, tracking issues, etc.. Always blaming the install not the products and threatening to cause social media issues for us unless we fix the issue. Often we'd end up just giving them free parts to make them go away.

Now a track bar that is kind of weird.. but maybe they had a track bar break on another client or something an issue dealing with synergy in the past.

 

Normally I would agree with you, except this is the same shop who when I started calling around about installing my gears (Yukon 5.13's) told me they wouldn't install them in my factory housing and would only install them if I bought new teraflex heavy duty axel housings Hahha...it's a show in newton ma which is an uber wealthy area, I get the sense he's just used to soccer moms/beach house owners/and teenagers with daddy's money coming in and hanging on his every word, paying him whatever he wants for whatever he wants, regardless if people need it or not

 

Sorry, so I think my question about the backspacing and the drag link flip got a bit lost in the shuffle. If I have stock Moabs, I am going to at a minimum need to go buy 2 insh wheel spacers right?