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JKU Truck 5.7 Hemi Swap

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Old 06-25-2023 | 07:43 AM
  #1  
levinemr's Avatar
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From: Webster Groves
Default JKU Truck 5.7 Hemi Swap

I swapped a 4.7L Engine from a 2011 Dodge Ram into my 2007 JKU rubicon 4 or 5 years ago. I went with the 4.7 because I figure that it would be easier on my drivetrain and maybe I could use an AX15 or NV3550 with it. The Getrag 238 seemed hard to source. That didn't work out because of how far back the shift tower opening sits, and got lucky with a working getrag transmission. I made my own engine mounts out of liquid polyurithain and some some square steel. I also did my own wiring. I sourced my battery tray from JSS and I got the steering relocation bracket from one of those places (maybe JSS). The 4.7 is a great engine for a JKU (it has the perfect amount of power), but it doesn't fit as nicely as the 5.7.

About 6 months ago I started my Hemi swap by gathering parts and building the wire harness. I orignally planned on using a Jeep/Car Hemi, but got the Truck engine instead.

Resources
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/gen-iii-hemi-swap-into-tj%E2%80%94reference-guide-swap-info.46347/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/5-7l-vvt-hemi-getrag-238-structural-dust-cover-330117/




Wire Harness
Created from splicing the Aspen/Durango wire harness with a LX (charger / 300) car based 08 or newer engine wire harness along with the JKU Connector. The car harness is two seperate pieces (one for the Orange PCM connector and one for the Black PCM connector) which is nice. I'm going to call these the Black and Orange engine wire harnesses. There's a connector that bridges the two for the 7 & 8 injectors and coils along with a few other sensors. The Orange wire harness covers all of the engine ignition sensors, injectors, and coils. The Black harness is more focused on the connection with the rest of the vehicle. I describe how each of these must be modified below.

If your using a Jeep or Car engine, you may not need to use the SUV sensor. It might make more sense to just lengthen some wires such as the crank sensor wire.

The biggest Orange harness wiring challenge is due to PCM placement. On all 5.7 equipped vehicles that I aware of (truck, SUV, and car), the PCM is on the passenger/right side of the vehicle. The JK's PCM is on the driver's/left side. This means the SUV and Truck wire harness won't reach the PCM location in the Jeep. Almost every wire would need to becut and lengtened. The LX wire harness will reach for the most part, but there are limitations. Only the Injectors and ignition coil wires reach. The Crank Sensor, Knock sensor, Oil Pressure sensor, etc on the right side won't reach due to harness routing in the JK.

For the orange harness, I plan to use the sensors from the SUV harness and everything else from the LX harness. The steps involved:
1. Break down the SUV harness, remove the Injector and Ignition coild pins from the PCM Black and Orange connectors, seperate injector and ingnition coild wires from the harness. I amost never cut wiring. Instead I tend to de-pin any connectors that cause me issues with seperating everything. The LX and Durange share the same type of bridging connectors, so you can simply swap pins around between the connectors.

2. Remove the uneeded sensor pins from the LX harness Orange connector. I haven't removed these uneeded wires yet, but make sure they're a llittle out of the way.

3. You can probably swap pins in either direction. I swap LX to SUV, because my LX PCM connector was broken. Now, start moving pins one at a time from one harness to the other. Make sure each pin goes into the same cavety on the other connector.

Now you have a hybrid orange wire harness. There is a little more work to make this complete. Some wires must bridge to the Black harness. I'll add more about this later.

For the Black Harness, I got lucky and found part of a stock JK engine wire harness in the Junk yard. This requires the section of harness containg the large firewall connector. Its possible to find other vehicles that use that connector and cut a large section of that harness to use here. It might take some time walking around the junk yard, but I've seen it on several ocassion. I grabbed an extra connector just in case i damaged mine. Using the actual harness is nice because the wires are correctly color coded and sized for the JK.

The Job involves soldering the Black harness with the Stock JK harness.

I order some of these to secure the wire harness to the valve cover studs. These valve cover cable ties fit the studs perfectly
HellermannTyton 157-00380


I'll post more at some point. I have spreadsheets and presentations with wiring that i'll post as some point.

Engine Mounts
I created my own engine mount brackets. They use the HD Ram Truck motor mounts, but I created my own unique brackets. They put the engine as high as possible, but I might need to drop it down a little. I have an issue with running the engine oil dip stick, because I didn't design them with space between the mounting bracket and the block. Hopefully I can use a 2012 oil dipstick that goes around the brackets. These mounts are an old design that put the engine up to high. Here are the new ones. They use ANCHOR 3254 with 3 10mm bolts/nuts to secure them to each bracket.







Power Steering Pump
I looked at a 2020 2500 6.4 Dodge Ram Pump or a 2007 Toyota Camry Pump. They looked the same to me. Neither of these PSPs work for the truck hemi. the Dodge pump is only 6 grove and the toyota pump sticks out to far and the mounting holes are for a larger bolt.

Solution: I used a standard 1997-2002 wrangler 2.5L power steering pump with Dorman Pulley 300-012. I beleive any Saginaw TC / GM Type 2 Pump with remote reservoir fittings will work. It remains to be seen if this pump generates enough pressure for the JKU Power Steering gear, but they make Saginaw pumps that produce very high pressures. I could order a different pump if the time comes.

Power Steering Lines
Steering Gear Pressure Port: M18x1.5
Steering Gear Return Port: M16.x1.5
1998 Wrangler 2.5L PSP Outlet: M16-1.50
1998 Wrangler 2.5L PSP Inlet:5/8 barb

I purchased a hose and AN fitting kit from Amazon for this that contained all the adapters and fittings. It came with alumimum adapters, but i prefer steel for the steering gear side. Its best to use the same kind of metal as the target location, so I'll use aluminum in the pump and steel in the gear.

(add some pics when complete)


Getrag 238 mounting
I used the stock mounting solution for the getrag with an 1/4 thick flat piece of steel that allows the getrag to come back a few more inches.




Fuel Lines
I had to create a unique Fuel line using AN fittings. I might be able to use the stock fuel lines for the hemi, but I already did this for the 4.7. I had to buy a different fuel rail adapter because the hemi has a 3/8 in input. The 4.7 uses 5/16.

Air Box
Air box is base off a ford air filter. MOTORCRAFT FA1632.


This is the bracket that holds the air filter box. It connected to the JSS battery tray.






Cooling
Origianlly wanted to go with the mechanical fan for simplicity, but it takes up a lot of room. Instead, I'm using the Volvle fan and fan controller. I pulled my from the junk yard, but the appear to be any of these part numbers from a 1998 S90:
FOUR SEASONS75451
OEM
19193436
Reference Material
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/vo...-swap.1373350/


I'll use a BMW dual temperature sensor. These fit early to mid 90s BMWs. There turn on at 195 and 210. There are alternative ones that turn on at 180 and 195.
Beck/Arnley 201-1520 Thermo Fan Switch
OEM 61311378073
Thread Size: 14MMX1.50


Edit: I was able to wire the volvo fan directly to the JK's fan drive coming from the IPM. It seems to work okay. I set the 5.7 ECM fan setting to the identical settings used by the 3.8 ECM. For HPtuners, select SYSTEM. Set the Fan Type to Relay 3 Spd, Fans PCM Controlled: Enabled. Those are my current settings. The fan does turn on and off frequently. It is 90 degree here today ,but it kept tthe temperatire at a constant 100 degrees C with the stock radiator. I don't have the A/C lines installed (or designed), so I can't test it with A/C.

Here is my coolant bottle


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1


I made a custom fan shroud out of Aluminum sheet

Last edited by levinemr; 09-05-2024 at 01:38 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by levinemr:
Jay2013jk (06-25-2023), JFish'n (07-10-2023), punklicker (11-08-2023)
Old 06-25-2023 | 11:20 AM
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Sixty4x4's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default

Welcome to JKF. You joined for exactly the reason the forum exists and that is to help others with good info. Great write up. Good info for others to follow.

Last edited by Sixty4x4; 06-25-2023 at 11:22 AM.
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Jay2013jk (06-25-2023), levinemr (06-25-2023)
Old 03-12-2024 | 05:09 PM
  #3  
levinemr's Avatar
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JK Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 3
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From: Webster Groves
Default

Battery Tray
Tray I purchsed in ~2017 or 2018 from JSS. I had to modify it to work.wasn't very happy about it at the time, but I don't remember the issue.


Engine Controller / PCM
I'm using 05094470AD from a 2008 manual transmission Dodge Ram 1500. This is the Federal Emissions software. 05094472AA is for the California Emssions truck. 05150321AC is a newer version that is both Federal and California friendly. Here are some alternative PNs
2007 MT 5.7 1500: 05094396AG or 05094606AF or 05094397AG or 05094398AG or 05094399AG
2008 MT 5.7 DX?: 68038879AA


Exhaust
I used the 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Exhaust Manifolds (DORMAN 674478 andDORMAN 674477). Not sure what I'll do for the actual exhaust.



Air Intake
I want to 3D print something that uses a standard air filter
The JGC 5.7 air filter is 11.476 x 8.328x1.578, 95 sqr inches
Stock wrangler: 11.57x8.8.8, but its irregular.



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