JKU overheating need help!!!
07-30-2012 | 05:28 PM
#11
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,882
Likes: 172
From: Maine
It sounds like you have too much stuff in front of the grill. It's not only blocking the air for the radiator, it's causing the air that does get by to be turbulent. That all adds up to inadequate cooling at highway speeds. The absence of the air dam isn't helping the situation, although if it were the only factor, it isn't likely to cause an issue.
07-30-2012 | 05:33 PM
#12
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: tomball tx
Trade em in for a '12.....friend of mine has a '10 jk and its a turd. Seems like the 3.8 has no power...he's only sittin on 31s .my 12 with the penty runs awesome! The power is Definately there when you need it.
07-30-2012 | 06:47 PM
#13
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Riverside, Ca
Originally Posted by napamat87
Trade em in for a '12.....friend of mine has a '10 jk and its a turd. Seems like the 3.8 has no power...he's only sittin on 31s .my 12 with the penty runs awesome! The power is Definately there when you need it.
07-30-2012 | 06:49 PM
#14
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Riverside, Ca
Originally Posted by ronjenx
It sounds like you have too much stuff in front of the grill. It's not only blocking the air for the radiator, it's causing the air that does get by to be turbulent. That all adds up to inadequate cooling at highway speeds. The absence of the air dam isn't helping the situation, although if it were the only factor, it isn't likely to cause an issue.
07-31-2012 | 11:03 AM
#15
JK Junkie
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Hope ron looks into this Because I don't know
Vehicles in the past had two styles of water pumps an open impeller and a closed impeller
Allot of vehicles with air conditioning used closed impellers.
This afforded them to not cavitate under higher radiator pressures
I always use a closed impeller water pump, the 3.8 I don't know if they have the two styles
33
Vehicles in the past had two styles of water pumps an open impeller and a closed impeller
Allot of vehicles with air conditioning used closed impellers.
This afforded them to not cavitate under higher radiator pressures
I always use a closed impeller water pump, the 3.8 I don't know if they have the two styles
33
Last edited by 33 williys 77; 07-31-2012 at 11:11 AM.
07-31-2012 | 02:09 PM
#16
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,882
Likes: 172
From: Maine
On my way by the dealer, I stopped in to "look into this". They had one in stock, so I took some pictures of it.
Here is a picture of the JK water pump. It's an open impeller design, but the open face is toward the pump body so the clearance can be more closely controlled.
The original part number was 04666044AA. Now the number is 04666044BB. The normal progression of part updates is AA→AB→AC, etc.
This number being BB suggests, (at least to me), the part has seen numerous revisions. The parts guy said this is the first time he has seen a "BB" part number.
The impeller is made of some non-ferrous metal. I don't know if the earlier water pump impellers were metal or plastic.
Here is a picture of the JK water pump. It's an open impeller design, but the open face is toward the pump body so the clearance can be more closely controlled.
The original part number was 04666044AA. Now the number is 04666044BB. The normal progression of part updates is AA→AB→AC, etc.
This number being BB suggests, (at least to me), the part has seen numerous revisions. The parts guy said this is the first time he has seen a "BB" part number.
The impeller is made of some non-ferrous metal. I don't know if the earlier water pump impellers were metal or plastic.
Last edited by ronjenx; 07-31-2012 at 02:38 PM.
07-31-2012 | 03:59 PM
#17
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Riverside, Ca
Originally Posted by ronjenx
On my way by the dealer, I stopped in to "look into this". They had one in stock, so I took some pictures of it.
Here is a picture of the JK water pump. It's an open impeller design, but the open face is toward the pump body so the clearance can be more closely controlled.
The original part number was 04666044AA. Now the number is 04666044BB. The normal progression of part updates is AA->AB->AC, etc.
This number being BB suggests, (at least to me), the part has seen numerous revisions. The parts guy said this is the first time he has seen a "BB" part number.
The impeller is made of some non-ferrous metal. I don't know if the earlier water pump impellers were metal or plastic.
Here is a picture of the JK water pump. It's an open impeller design, but the open face is toward the pump body so the clearance can be more closely controlled.
The original part number was 04666044AA. Now the number is 04666044BB. The normal progression of part updates is AA->AB->AC, etc.
This number being BB suggests, (at least to me), the part has seen numerous revisions. The parts guy said this is the first time he has seen a "BB" part number.
The impeller is made of some non-ferrous metal. I don't know if the earlier water pump impellers were metal or plastic.
07-31-2012 | 04:31 PM
#18
JK Junkie
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Thanks Ron ! !
That would be an open impeller water pump, now to look into aftermarket I guess.
If you look close you can see the space between housing and impeller, thats where cavitation starts cutting down the pumps efficiency
Thanks again
33
That would be an open impeller water pump, now to look into aftermarket I guess.
If you look close you can see the space between housing and impeller, thats where cavitation starts cutting down the pumps efficiency
Thanks again
33
Last edited by 33 williys 77; 07-31-2012 at 04:43 PM.
07-31-2012 | 05:42 PM
#19
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,882
Likes: 172
From: Maine
I believe semi-open impeller would be more appropriate, since one side has sort of a shroud.
07-31-2012 | 05:43 PM
#20
JK Jedi
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 1
From: NORTH JERSEY
i would get yourself if u dont have one a lisle no spill funnel. that is the best funnel to use. it locks onto the rad, and allows extra coolant to be in the funnel to allow air to escape. u can see the air. i would also if u didn't, flush the heater core. u can just remove the two lines and use a garden hose to flush it both ways...