JK Steering wheel wandering
#12
Super Moderator
I noticed you have a cam bolt for your track bar, I wonder if that bolt is rotating when you hit a bump. That will cause your axle to shift and cause your steering to shift as well. If the steering joints or steering box is worn then you’ll have a slight dead spot. You say you don’t have one so the only thing that comes to mind is that cam bolt.
edit:
the front track bar bracket also requires a high steer setup which you don’t have, and from what I can tell, you don’t have a drop pitman arm. I wouldn’t suggest a drop pitman arm either.
This means that your track bar and drag link aren’t parallel to each other. When you hit a bump, your axle shifts a little due to the track bar being at an angle. Your drag link shifts too due to the angle. If your drag link and track bar aren’t on the same plane, their angles change differently and you’ll get weird steering issues. I’m still leaning to the cam bolt moving since your drag link and track bar are fighting each other when you go over a bump.
edit:
the front track bar bracket also requires a high steer setup which you don’t have, and from what I can tell, you don’t have a drop pitman arm. I wouldn’t suggest a drop pitman arm either.
This means that your track bar and drag link aren’t parallel to each other. When you hit a bump, your axle shifts a little due to the track bar being at an angle. Your drag link shifts too due to the angle. If your drag link and track bar aren’t on the same plane, their angles change differently and you’ll get weird steering issues. I’m still leaning to the cam bolt moving since your drag link and track bar are fighting each other when you go over a bump.
Last edited by Sv_dude; 04-19-2021 at 04:56 PM.
#13
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We don't see many of those trackbar cams. Interesting setup, definitely check that it is tight. And if you get a chance, take another pic showing both ends of the front trackbar and draglink -- you want the bolts at both ends of both bars showing in the same pic. Then open it in Paint or whatever, and draw straight lines from bolt to bolt on each bar. We're looking to verify just how parallel to each other they are.
Also check that the nut on the pitman is tight. We've had a few reports similar to your steering wheel issue caused by installing a drop pitman arm and leaving that bolt loose.
Also check that the nut on the pitman is tight. We've had a few reports similar to your steering wheel issue caused by installing a drop pitman arm and leaving that bolt loose.
#14
Super Moderator
Is that bottom hole for the track bar cam bolt slotted? If so you have no way to mount a raised TB bracket that should be there with a standard bolt if you raise TB and DL. If so some work required with a welder there to fix it. Your TB and DL are parallel so that is good. Mine are fairly steep but not quite as yours. I get a little bump steer not a lot but it returns to center after bumps. Did the steering wheel get centered after the lift? That could be the cause of the ESC light coming on or my guess is like others - something loose or misaligned. Get rid of two of those stabilizers. Preferably that dual setup. Get some adjustable LCA for front and rear otherwise you may be looking for new driveshafts soon.
#15
Super Moderator
Is that bottom hole for the track bar cam bolt slotted? If so you have no way to mount a raised TB bracket that should be there with a standard bolt if you raise TB and DL. If so some work required with a welder there to fix it. Your TB and DL are parallel so that is good. Mine are fairly steep but not quite as yours. I get a little bump steer not a lot but it returns to center after bumps. Did the steering wheel get centered after the lift? That could be the cause of the ESC light coming on or my guess is like others - something loose or misaligned. Get rid of two of those stabilizers. Preferably that dual setup. Get some adjustable LCA for front and rear otherwise you may be looking for new driveshafts soon.
#16
I assume everyone sees the bent driver side stabilizer bracket? Does anyone else see that the drag link and tie rod are bent as well? That could certainly cause the all sorts of steering wheel and esp issues?
I would also second (and third and fourth) the comments on caster correction and that cam bolt.
I would also second (and third and fourth) the comments on caster correction and that cam bolt.
#17
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Thanks for the advice from all, I will see if I can get some better pics this eve, but at least I have some ideas to research (need to understand the jeep's steering setup a bit better for sure).
#18
JK Jedi
I think it's really hard to determine bent components from those pictures or if it's an optical illusion. I would say this though, even if the TR is bent, that is only going to affect the toe and not bump steer or the steering wheel staying cockeyed. Obviously, still something to remedy if it is bent, but I think that SV-dude is on track with the idea that maybe that cam bolt in the TB has loosened up (should be 125 ft lbs at least) and so when OP hits a bump, that shifts a bit, altering the TB which shifts the axle, which alters the DL, which alters the steering wheel position. Also agree that OP has half a high-steer kit there and really needs to flip the DL. I think if the bars look parallel in the pictures like Sixty4x4 sees, it's just an illusion cuz there is no DL flip, and there is no drop pitman, and the TB is definitely raised.
The three stabilizers is redonk . I know that the OP didn't do that, but somewhere, someone out there did. Good golly. It set me off to find one of my favorite pictures, that I apparently lost along the way, of someone with 4 shocks at each corner.
The good news for the OP is that there are some easy things that can be done to drastically improve the driveability of that jeep, and increase smile factor. I do think it will be better to get all this sorted out and have a good plan so when you take it to a shop you can say you want XYZ done rather than asking the shop what they think. If you were in my neck of the woods I'd come help ya out, but FL is a bit far.
The three stabilizers is redonk . I know that the OP didn't do that, but somewhere, someone out there did. Good golly. It set me off to find one of my favorite pictures, that I apparently lost along the way, of someone with 4 shocks at each corner.
The good news for the OP is that there are some easy things that can be done to drastically improve the driveability of that jeep, and increase smile factor. I do think it will be better to get all this sorted out and have a good plan so when you take it to a shop you can say you want XYZ done rather than asking the shop what they think. If you were in my neck of the woods I'd come help ya out, but FL is a bit far.
#19
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Thanks, I really appreciate all of the ideas and advice (and the offer for help if you were closer). I have researched reliable jeep shops in my area on the local Jeep community FB page so have a decent place to take it later this week.
Will do some youtubing today in my break time at work and try to get a better understanding of the wrangler setup so I am more conversant. I drive a lifted '18 F150 which has a very simple suspension by comparison. Not nearly as nimble as the Jeep but drives like a Cadillac on the street by comparison.
Wife always wanted a Jeep so we pulled the trigger, but its been hard explaining to her that it is like a boat in that things do break more than her SUV's she was used to, and it cost $$ to keep it right. You also assume that when you buy a "certified" used Jeep already setup and lifted via a Chrysler/Jeep dealer that they have gone through it to make sure it is kosher. I got them to cover the vapor canister that went out in the first 3 months we owned after threatening them with a nasty review, but am sure they will call this a "wear" issue which is hard to argue so not even going to bother taalking to them about it.
It did drive very well when we bought with none of these issues, and has been driven daily but only been on a fairly "rough" off road trail once (it had rained a lot the week before, and there were some decent mud holes left behind). Assuming that is when whatever this is happened. Maybe the previous owner only took it to the mall.
We will get it right and enjoy the hell out of it I am sure.
Will do some youtubing today in my break time at work and try to get a better understanding of the wrangler setup so I am more conversant. I drive a lifted '18 F150 which has a very simple suspension by comparison. Not nearly as nimble as the Jeep but drives like a Cadillac on the street by comparison.
Wife always wanted a Jeep so we pulled the trigger, but its been hard explaining to her that it is like a boat in that things do break more than her SUV's she was used to, and it cost $$ to keep it right. You also assume that when you buy a "certified" used Jeep already setup and lifted via a Chrysler/Jeep dealer that they have gone through it to make sure it is kosher. I got them to cover the vapor canister that went out in the first 3 months we owned after threatening them with a nasty review, but am sure they will call this a "wear" issue which is hard to argue so not even going to bother taalking to them about it.
It did drive very well when we bought with none of these issues, and has been driven daily but only been on a fairly "rough" off road trail once (it had rained a lot the week before, and there were some decent mud holes left behind). Assuming that is when whatever this is happened. Maybe the previous owner only took it to the mall.
We will get it right and enjoy the hell out of it I am sure.
#20
JK Jedi