JK Rubicon
#1
JK Newbie
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Location: Cupertino, CA
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JK Rubicon
Hey guys, I've tried to do some searching and I keep finding conflicting info. Does a 2012-13 Rubicon have any lift over a standard JK or is it just tires and all the Rubicon goodies that make it a Rubicon? Also, I'm new to JK's and I know with 4.10s and a manual tranny I could get by on 35's, I want to run 37's eventually and do long arms but I don't want to regear right away or make major mods to axles, drive shafts and so on. What is the max reliable lift JK's will accept with out major mods? And lastly, in regards to my first question, a 3.5 inch lift is 3.5 on all Jeeps or just a standard model?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
JK Super Freak
It's funny I was just at the dealer yesterday and measured both the sport in the Rubicons the suspensions are the same in height. the Rubicon you're so get a 44 axle in the front where is the sport you only get a 30. welcome to the forum maybe someone will chime in with your other questions.
#3
If you want to run 37's I would save a few bills and get a sport, sahara, or X. The money you save get air lockers and a prorock 44 front axle - instead of having to sleeve/gusset/truss/regear the rubi44.
2.5"-3" of lift is minimum for not having to do many modifications. Over that you'd need new lines, control arms, drive shaft(s), etc...
2.5"-3" of lift is minimum for not having to do many modifications. Over that you'd need new lines, control arms, drive shaft(s), etc...
#4
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If you want to run 37's I would save a few bills and get a sport, sahara, or X. The money you save get air lockers and a prorock 44 front axle - instead of having to sleeve/gusset/truss/regear the rubi44.
2.5"-3" of lift is minimum for not having to do many modifications. Over that you'd need new lines, control arms, drive shaft(s), etc...
2.5"-3" of lift is minimum for not having to do many modifications. Over that you'd need new lines, control arms, drive shaft(s), etc...
#6
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I got the sport and spent the saved cash on a prorock 44 and planning a pr60 rear later. I am happy with the decision. I just couldn't stomach the extra cost for a rubi when i was planning on replacing the entire suspension and driveline. But my end goal was 37s right from the start.
#7
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Location: Was:Palmdale, CA Now: Cedar City UT
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Rubicon vs Sport Axles
There is a lot of confusion as to the difference between Rubicon and other JK(Sport, Sahara etc.) model axles. In principle, I agree with both lLKJK and GhostJK above but will add that one has to know what is planned for their vehicle to make an informed decision as to getting a Rubicon or subsequently upgrading other model axles.
Most everyone knows the basics such as the Rubicon comes stock with lockers. Rubicon axles ARE different in other areas as well. You have no doubt noticed that ring and pinion sets are NOT interchangeable between Rubicon and non-Rubicon. Some reasons are as follows:
The non-Rubicon D30 has a 7.2" Ring gear, 27 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.16".
The non Rubicon rear D44 has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31".
The D44 Rubicon Front axle has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31"
The D44 Rubicon Rear axle has 8.8" ring gear, 32 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.41"
(For reference, the D60 has a 9.75" ring gear, 35 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.50")
As you can see the Rubicon axles are stronger than other JK axles, However, BOTH Rubicon and non Rubicon axles have weak front knuckles. This is particularly a problem when running larger tires. Sort of like using a hammer with a longer handle.
Many elect to not only reinforce the knuckles but also sleeve the axle as well. Axle sleeve reinforcement kits come in three flavors.
(1) To be installed on the outside of the axle sleeve and welded to the axle sleeve.
(2) Installed on the inside of the sleeve and plug welded through holes drilled into to the axle sleeve.
(3) I believe NITTO is the only manufacture that offers a press fit reinforcement that is inserted inside the sleeve and driven/pounded in place instead of being welded. For reference, NITTO sleeve reinforcements are not as thick but have clearance to accept a 35 spline front axle.
There are also manufactures out there that make a truss to reinforce the D30 and the D44.
In other words, one can significantly increase the strength of either Rubicon or non-Rubicon axles.
Didn't mean to get this wordy but hope this helps to understand available options and make informed decisions.
KG6SLC aka Eugene
Most everyone knows the basics such as the Rubicon comes stock with lockers. Rubicon axles ARE different in other areas as well. You have no doubt noticed that ring and pinion sets are NOT interchangeable between Rubicon and non-Rubicon. Some reasons are as follows:
The non-Rubicon D30 has a 7.2" Ring gear, 27 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.16".
The non Rubicon rear D44 has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31".
The D44 Rubicon Front axle has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31"
The D44 Rubicon Rear axle has 8.8" ring gear, 32 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.41"
(For reference, the D60 has a 9.75" ring gear, 35 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.50")
As you can see the Rubicon axles are stronger than other JK axles, However, BOTH Rubicon and non Rubicon axles have weak front knuckles. This is particularly a problem when running larger tires. Sort of like using a hammer with a longer handle.
Many elect to not only reinforce the knuckles but also sleeve the axle as well. Axle sleeve reinforcement kits come in three flavors.
(1) To be installed on the outside of the axle sleeve and welded to the axle sleeve.
(2) Installed on the inside of the sleeve and plug welded through holes drilled into to the axle sleeve.
(3) I believe NITTO is the only manufacture that offers a press fit reinforcement that is inserted inside the sleeve and driven/pounded in place instead of being welded. For reference, NITTO sleeve reinforcements are not as thick but have clearance to accept a 35 spline front axle.
There are also manufactures out there that make a truss to reinforce the D30 and the D44.
In other words, one can significantly increase the strength of either Rubicon or non-Rubicon axles.
Didn't mean to get this wordy but hope this helps to understand available options and make informed decisions.
KG6SLC aka Eugene
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#8
JK Enthusiast
Don't forget you get a 4:1 transfer case as well. And the auto sway bar disconnect.
Pro and cons to each way.... Just thought I'd throw that out there!!!
Oh and the hood sticker... LOL!!!
Pro and cons to each way.... Just thought I'd throw that out there!!!
Oh and the hood sticker... LOL!!!
#9
I got my Sport for $20,000 versus the cheapest Rubi I could find was 39,000. Given that I want 37" tires in the long run I knew I would need to upgrade the axles anyways. Also my TJ had an Atlas tcase and that is what I plan to put in my JK. By banking the diff in monthly payment i will get there quicker and not waste $20,000 on factory upgrades that I will dump eventually anyways.
#10
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I got my Sport for $20,000 versus the cheapest Rubi I could find was 39,000. Given that I want 37" tires in the long run I knew I would need to upgrade the axles anyways. Also my TJ had an Atlas tcase and that is what I plan to put in my JK. By banking the diff in monthly payment i will get there quicker and not waste $20,000 on factory upgrades that I will dump eventually anyways.