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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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JK Rubicon

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Old 12-12-2012, 07:19 AM
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Default JK Rubicon

Hey guys, I've tried to do some searching and I keep finding conflicting info. Does a 2012-13 Rubicon have any lift over a standard JK or is it just tires and all the Rubicon goodies that make it a Rubicon? Also, I'm new to JK's and I know with 4.10s and a manual tranny I could get by on 35's, I want to run 37's eventually and do long arms but I don't want to regear right away or make major mods to axles, drive shafts and so on. What is the max reliable lift JK's will accept with out major mods? And lastly, in regards to my first question, a 3.5 inch lift is 3.5 on all Jeeps or just a standard model?

Thanks!
Old 12-12-2012, 08:16 AM
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It's funny I was just at the dealer yesterday and measured both the sport in the Rubicons the suspensions are the same in height. the Rubicon you're so get a 44 axle in the front where is the sport you only get a 30. welcome to the forum maybe someone will chime in with your other questions.
Old 12-12-2012, 08:35 AM
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If you want to run 37's I would save a few bills and get a sport, sahara, or X. The money you save get air lockers and a prorock 44 front axle - instead of having to sleeve/gusset/truss/regear the rubi44.

2.5"-3" of lift is minimum for not having to do many modifications. Over that you'd need new lines, control arms, drive shaft(s), etc...
Old 12-12-2012, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by PrayingMantits
If you want to run 37's I would save a few bills and get a sport, sahara, or X. The money you save get air lockers and a prorock 44 front axle - instead of having to sleeve/gusset/truss/regear the rubi44.

2.5"-3" of lift is minimum for not having to do many modifications. Over that you'd need new lines, control arms, drive shaft(s), etc...
Yeah that's my problem. My plan is to buy a JKU Rubicon, get sliders, bumpers, armor, fenders, 35's and lift it the max I can reasonably. I'm a mechanic and I currently own a nicely modded XJ with 33's, locked F/R, 4 to 1 and all kinds of armor. It does well but its old...and the newest XJ out there is an 01 which is still 12 years old. Plus the JK's just look bad ass and actually have a frame so its time to upgrade. Anyway, I did the math and I see what your saying I could spend 10 grand less and put that into a Sport model. But the benefit of a Rubicon is it will hurt less in a monthly payment plus what I can tell is they have a few other options I really want like heated seats. A Sahara is way to much for being better then a Sport but not a Rubicon. I know eventually I'll do long arms, regear and build what ever JK I end up getting into a monster. I thought 35's would be nice for the first 2 years or so while its still new and I'm racking up miles. Are the factory lockers really crap? And how about the 44's, are they really that trashy? Don't get me wrong I do wheel the Con, been to Moab and I never trailer my junk. I know JK's are entirely different then the older Wranglers but are long arms REALLY needed on JK's? I suppose its all relative in relation to hard core you wheel it. I'm just not sure where to begin on JK's, I have no experience building them and I don't know their weak areas.
Old 12-12-2012, 12:05 PM
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You don't need a pr44 and stock lockers do well, don't buy into the hype. Get the rubi
Old 12-12-2012, 12:15 PM
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I got the sport and spent the saved cash on a prorock 44 and planning a pr60 rear later. I am happy with the decision. I just couldn't stomach the extra cost for a rubi when i was planning on replacing the entire suspension and driveline. But my end goal was 37s right from the start.
Old 12-12-2012, 01:29 PM
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Default Rubicon vs Sport Axles

There is a lot of confusion as to the difference between Rubicon and other JK(Sport, Sahara etc.) model axles. In principle, I agree with both lLKJK and GhostJK above but will add that one has to know what is planned for their vehicle to make an informed decision as to getting a Rubicon or subsequently upgrading other model axles.

Most everyone knows the basics such as the Rubicon comes stock with lockers. Rubicon axles ARE different in other areas as well. You have no doubt noticed that ring and pinion sets are NOT interchangeable between Rubicon and non-Rubicon. Some reasons are as follows:

The non-Rubicon D30 has a 7.2" Ring gear, 27 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.16".
The non Rubicon rear D44 has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31".

The D44 Rubicon Front axle has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31"
The D44 Rubicon Rear axle has 8.8" ring gear, 32 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.41"

(For reference, the D60 has a 9.75" ring gear, 35 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.50")

As you can see the Rubicon axles are stronger than other JK axles, However, BOTH Rubicon and non Rubicon axles have weak front knuckles. This is particularly a problem when running larger tires. Sort of like using a hammer with a longer handle.

Many elect to not only reinforce the knuckles but also sleeve the axle as well. Axle sleeve reinforcement kits come in three flavors.
(1) To be installed on the outside of the axle sleeve and welded to the axle sleeve.
(2) Installed on the inside of the sleeve and plug welded through holes drilled into to the axle sleeve.
(3) I believe NITTO is the only manufacture that offers a press fit reinforcement that is inserted inside the sleeve and driven/pounded in place instead of being welded. For reference, NITTO sleeve reinforcements are not as thick but have clearance to accept a 35 spline front axle.

There are also manufactures out there that make a truss to reinforce the D30 and the D44.

In other words, one can significantly increase the strength of either Rubicon or non-Rubicon axles.

Didn't mean to get this wordy but hope this helps to understand available options and make informed decisions.

KG6SLC aka Eugene

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Old 12-12-2012, 02:13 PM
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Don't forget you get a 4:1 transfer case as well. And the auto sway bar disconnect.

Pro and cons to each way.... Just thought I'd throw that out there!!!

Oh and the hood sticker... LOL!!!
Old 12-12-2012, 02:27 PM
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I got my Sport for $20,000 versus the cheapest Rubi I could find was 39,000. Given that I want 37" tires in the long run I knew I would need to upgrade the axles anyways. Also my TJ had an Atlas tcase and that is what I plan to put in my JK. By banking the diff in monthly payment i will get there quicker and not waste $20,000 on factory upgrades that I will dump eventually anyways.
Old 12-12-2012, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JKbender
I got my Sport for $20,000 versus the cheapest Rubi I could find was 39,000. Given that I want 37" tires in the long run I knew I would need to upgrade the axles anyways. Also my TJ had an Atlas tcase and that is what I plan to put in my JK. By banking the diff in monthly payment i will get there quicker and not waste $20,000 on factory upgrades that I will dump eventually anyways.
To be fair, that is not close to the difference if one were to order new. I have done many comparison builds on the '13s and for the features I want, the difference between the Unlimited Sport and Rubi is about $6k.


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