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JK Mid Arm Lift Questions

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Old 06-11-2015, 08:45 AM
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Default JK Mid Arm Lift Questions

First off, I'm new to this Forum so Hello everyone!

So my 2015 Unlimited currently has a 3.5" AEV lift on it W/ 35's. When off road it doesn't take much articulation to stuff the wheels and I'd like the jeep to sit a little higher, so i'm looking to add a 2"ish BB to it.

Coil spacers seem to be the same across the board so i'm looking at the RC 2.5" spacers (comes with shock relocation brackets).

Before I add the Spacers I will have the following parts:

Synergy Drag Link Flip Kit

Metalcloak: Control Arms, Quick Disco's, and Front & Rear Track bars

Also new Drive Shafts.

So my question is, with the total amount of lift being 6" will the stock control arm mounting locations still work? all of the 6" kits that I have saw are Long Arm and this would be a Mid Arm.
I really don't want to cut the stock mounts off
Also, is there anything else that I would need to make the 2.5" spacers work?

Thanks,
Collin
Old 06-11-2015, 09:17 AM
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I'm not sure what it is you're trying to accomplish? All that would do is give you a higher center of gravity and really screw up your driveline. The travel of your axle is determined by extended shock length and bump stops. Adding spacers doesn't increase travel. If you want more travel, ditch the AEV lift and get coils that have greater travel and then longer travel shocks. If you want less bump stop, get flat fenders. I ran 37" tires on 2.5" of lift and had 14" of travel. My new setup is 4" of lift, 40" tires and 16" of travel (vs. your 8" of travel). The 6" club is a very elite club... that no one wants to be a part of.
Old 06-11-2015, 09:47 AM
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I know that could spend 1500 on flares but that wont help me with ground clearance. I know many people say that 3.5 is enough but I've sat my frame on rocks plenty of times.

Which long travel shocks are recommended?
Old 06-11-2015, 09:53 AM
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While you are gathering the new parts, be sure to talk to a shop about chopping up your front housing to cut and turn. (or get info on replacing it with a caster corrected model, or one with lockout hubs...)
Old 06-11-2015, 10:17 AM
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The cost to correctly run 6" of lift will be greater than going to flat fenders and 37s. I am going to assume that you are running a 4 door? Even with more lift, it will compress and the same issue will happen. Plus, the greater issue for you should be hanging up on the diff and control arm brackets.

If you are determined to go 6" (and that's fine if you do), you just have to do it right. A good option would be the Teraflex 6" long arm. https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528f...d962f416e72d70. Assuming you can cut and weld, you will still need driveshafts, exhaust, and other odds and ends. The typical standard is $1000 per inch of lift. Now, up to 3.5"-4", you can sneak away with less. With 6", it is the rule. If you can do the work, you'll be right at about $6k.

Now, as noted above, it does not solve the caster issue. Ideally, you want to cut and turn the C's or swap to a prorock housing with the caster corrected.
Old 06-11-2015, 10:23 AM
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I'm not set on anything I just wanted more ground clearance but I guess it can be gained by going to 37's.

Any recommendations on long travel springs and shocks
Old 06-11-2015, 10:58 AM
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It really isn't that simple, unfortunately. You'll need a new front driveshaft and ideally, some adjustable control arms. If that is the road you go down, I'd recommend selling the AEV kit and starting fresh. That way it all works together. I'm not being negative about the AEV, it is just designed to be used as it came.

Or, move to the AEV 4.5" lift.
Old 06-11-2015, 03:04 PM
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you should be able to just swap out to 4 inch coils or whatever is the next size up from what you have now... much better than spacers
do you have adjustable control arms? if not you should get some.. You will need new driveshafts and steering correction/ drag link flip , track bars, coils,and ya coil overs would be sweet with a long arm lift kit with adjustable arms
but those 37s you will spend much more for 37 setup correctly than 35's you will want to beef up axels, brakes, etc if your really gonna wheel it.
mall crawling not as much

Last edited by Chicago Evo JK; 06-11-2015 at 03:11 PM.
Old 06-11-2015, 03:46 PM
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I say get some swaybar disco's, cut your stock fenders and reduce your bumpstop to the minimum required to keep the shocks from bottoming out. Wheel it in that configuration and than report back on whether or not you still feel the need to go bigger.

I understand youve rubbed your belly a bit on the rocks, but thats what the skids are there for. Going with 6" of lift or 37's are both expensive roads to go down. Adjustable everything, heavier tie rod, drag link flip, ball joints, caster corrected axle housing, aftermarket axle shafts, drive shafts, hydraulic assist, regear.. The list goes on and on. Maximize what you currently have and identify weak points the more you offroad it.

And for what its worth, my short wheelbase Jeep on 37's drags on everything. You just need to get used to the crunching sounds.

Also, post some pictures of you stuffing the wheels if you can.
Old 06-12-2015, 03:16 AM
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Ok Thanks for the info! discos have been on my list for a while so ill be ordering them soon. how does trimming the stock fenders look? would it be better to just save for flat fenders? Also I dont have any pictures right now but next time we go out i'll take some.

Thanks again guys.


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