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JK Dana 44 Full Float Axle Conversion

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Old 08-09-2016, 09:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
Not exactly sure why you feel it's necessary to whip it out and measure it, but no one was talking about you and your 30. I was simply making the comparison that one has to be committed to his Dana 30 to beef it up in much the same way one would have to be committed to his Dana 44 to install this upgrade. This had nothing to do with the merits of a Dana 30. Incidentally, you have no idea how much I have in my 44, so how you can make such a bold statement is interesting.
I don't feel you have to be committed at all to "beef up" a Dana 30. It can easily all be done in a weekend, and you can often times find used parts at good prices. I wasn't trying to measure anything, although it did come off that way. I was merely saying that it can all be done for relatively cheap, and it can be a great stepping-stone to get someone going until they can afford bigger axles.
Old 08-09-2016, 09:24 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
I don't feel you have to be committed at all to "beef up" a Dana 30. It can easily all be done in a weekend, and you can often times find used parts at good prices. I wasn't trying to measure anything, although it did come off that way. I was merely saying that it can all be done for relatively cheap, and it can be a great stepping-stone to get someone going until they can afford bigger axles.
No doubt. I suggested to a friend the other day that beefing up his 30 is an option he should consider.

He was debating on beefing up his 30 or replacing with a 44. I think it's an option he should be considering when figuring out if it fits his budget. A beefed up 30 housing is every bit as strong as a beefed up 44 (stock) housing. It's the internals that differ, and we can all agree on that. The larger ring and pinion are considerably stronger in 44, especially at ratios 4.88 and numerically higher.

So the discussion is more about "Should I spend the money upgrading what I have, or should I put it toward something I consider to be better?" Since I brought up the Dana 30 argument, I'll add to it thusly: Is it worth buying armor, gears and lockers (and possibly needing to pay someone to install it) for my 30, or should I find a 44 - that has stronger internal components - and do the same thing?

In the end, it's about an individual budget and needs. Had I not been fortunate enough to find my 44s they way I did, I'd likely still be debating this myself.

I can't see myself spending this kind of cash to upgrade my 44, but you never know.
Old 08-09-2016, 10:11 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
No doubt. I suggested to a friend the other day that beefing up his 30 is an option he should consider. He was debating on beefing up his 30 or replacing with a 44. I think it's an option he should be considering when figuring out if it fits his budget. A beefed up 30 housing is every bit as strong as a beefed up 44 (stock) housing. It's the internals that differ, and we can all agree on that. The larger ring and pinion are considerably stronger in 44, especially at ratios 4.88 and numerically higher. So the discussion is more about "Should I spend the money upgrading what I have, or should I put it toward something I consider to be better?" Since I brought up the Dana 30 argument, I'll add to it thusly: Is it worth buying armor, gears and lockers (and possibly needing to pay someone to install it) for my 30, or should I find a 44 - that has stronger internal components - and do the same thing? In the end, it's about an individual budget and needs. Had I not been fortunate enough to find my 44s they way I did, I'd likely still be debating this myself. I can't see myself spending this kind of cash to upgrade my 44, but you never know.
I definitely agree with you on the ring/pinion size comparisons. It's crazy to see them next to each other in real life and actually compare. No doubt it is stronger, but that doesn't mean a Dana 30 couldn't be strong enough. I would never suggest anyone build a Dana 30 if they were to pay labor prices, and it may not even be worth it without.
Old 08-09-2016, 09:13 PM
  #24  
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The major benefit of a full floater is that the shafts are able to be made of materials that are stronger in a twist, and weaker in a bend, because a full floater axle shaft can not bend like a semi floater. Does the kit address this? Most dana 44 failures that I have seen have been twisted pumpkins and stripped ring gears, a bent flange is really a very minor issue when you consider a new shaft is a couple hundred bucks. This kit eliminates the really cheap easy fixes, and does nothing about the "oh shit my whole axle is destroyed" issues.

Honestly this seems like a product for bolt on princesses.
Old 09-06-2016, 05:17 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
Hopefully we'll see Teraflex do an install video. I'd love to see this.
I guess the listened.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4knOQXoZYdQ Seems like a super easy install. Is it really worth the $5K? I dunno. I am curious if RCV makes a stub shaft that could be used in place of the stub shaft Teraflex includes in the kit, for those of us with RCVs already.
Old 09-06-2016, 09:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
Is it really worth the $5K?
HAHAHAAH

$5k?
Old 09-06-2016, 10:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TweakJK
HAHAHAAH $5k?
Definitely. I can appreciate the idea and engineering that went into this but swapping a whole axle is just as easy or easier than this conversion. Not to mention the cost.

Video shows plug welds in the rear tubes, which is just astonishing. If you have a welder you can strip and re bracket any axle you choose.



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