Mark_CuriousTracie

Correct me if I am wrong, I believe the Dana 44 (at least Rear) would become stronger due to not having stess of vehicle on axle single bearings but now split the workload and 2 separate bearings which in turn made the Dana 60 popular for our JK, and of course trussing the axle as well would beef up more. Far as the Dana 60, I know its components are slighty beefer but not much and everything breaks if someone is an idiot at 4x4ing. What hurts the Dana 60 is the dreaded thought of adding alot of weight to the JK. This in turn would slow it power to wheels dramatically to get tires spinning. Whereas a Full Float Dana 44 sounds like the best of both worlds. not saying it is the holy grail of Axles but at least considering the possibilities a Full Float Dana 44 could have.

Chuck-The-Ripper

I have 1/4 the money in my Dana 30 than you do in your 44 and I'll go 10x more places.

kjeeper10

Oh boy .......!

Mark_CuriousTracie

I gotta a question I been curious about,,, Is welding the tubes to the pumpkin a good thing or a waste of time?

twinz33

First Yes it would become stronger... Im saying WHY... So we are at 1800 for this part, then truss 150 shafts 400 locker 900 r&p 275 labor 500.... <-cheap labor and your at 4025.. When the full float UD 60 is around 4300...

As far as weight.. Really? factory 44 or not the JK is an under powered pig... And spinning tires with a small r&p 44 is a ticking time bomb.. The reason for all this strength is to run bigger tires right? Everyone has been around long enough to know the rear handles up to a 37 just fine with small modifications.. So I'm assuming this is for 40s... which = 5.38 gears to turn 40s in a "spinning" manner which means lots of broken r&p then time and money.. Even with staying 37s you need a small r&p and thats is still a ticking time bomb... Then you say to your self " I spent all this money for 37s and the guy down the street is running 37s just fine with only an arb and chromo shafts...

Have you seen a full float 60 in person? The components are much bigger... Not bulletproof as nothing is but def much bigger axle tubes, brakes, shafts, and r&p.... For nearly the same cost, or cheaper Id take the 60 any day of the week. The weight difference is a minor factor when your pushing 37-40s with under powered v6's

twinz33

Makes a big difference in the r&p when your talking 5.13 and 5.38 gears due to the size of the teeth

twinz33

If I had the option between these two axles for virtually the same price, which would I or any logical person pick... (This in mind with all the provided bells and whistles for the factory 44)

TheDirtman

The main drawback of the rear JK 44 is the semi float axle using a axle flange combo where the wheel bolts on. As you go bigger with tires and weight (as well as width) you tend to bend the axle shafts at the flange and you get the wheel wobble. A full float moves the mounting point to the hub and the axle housing not the shaft so it can handle more weight and it does not have the flange that can bend. Also if you brake the axle shaft on a full float you can simple pull the axle shaft and driveshaft and continue to run in front wheel drive. If you break a semi float axle you are done.

karls10jk

There's not much bearing surface there for 37's unless it's just rolling down the road.

ShutterBug

Not exactly sure why you feel it's necessary to whip it out and measure it, but no one was talking about you and your 30. I was simply making the comparison that one has to be committed to his Dana 30 to beef it up in much the same way one would have to be committed to his Dana 44 to install this upgrade. This had nothing to do with the merits of a Dana 30.

Incidentally, you have no idea how much I have in my 44, so how you can make such a bold statement is interesting.