je reel driveshafts? a few opinions wanted
#21
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yes that is a double cardan joint. but it is still a cv joint. thta still has the adapters though to bolt to the factory adapters.
this is the rear
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_972.htm
this is the front
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_970.htm
this is what i ll be doing. it replaces the yolks for a cleaner, simpler installation. one of our club sponsors is going to call je reel tomorrow and we will be measuring next week for a perfect fit!
this is the rear
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_972.htm
this is the front
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_970.htm
this is what i ll be doing. it replaces the yolks for a cleaner, simpler installation. one of our club sponsors is going to call je reel tomorrow and we will be measuring next week for a perfect fit!
#23
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yes that is a double cardan joint. but it is still a cv joint. thta still has the adapters though to bolt to the factory adapters.
this is the rear
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_972.htm
this is the front
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_970.htm
this is what i ll be doing. it replaces the yolks for a cleaner, simpler installation. one of our club sponsors is going to call je reel tomorrow and we will be measuring next week for a perfect fit!
this is the rear
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_972.htm
this is the front
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_970.htm
this is what i ll be doing. it replaces the yolks for a cleaner, simpler installation. one of our club sponsors is going to call je reel tomorrow and we will be measuring next week for a perfect fit!
sorry if I'm a pita but just to get the straight, I just need to order those 2 drivelines and nothing else, right?
#24
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yes that is a double cardan joint. but it is still a cv joint. thta still has the adapters though to bolt to the factory adapters.
this is the rear
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_972.htm
this is the front
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_970.htm
this is what i ll be doing. it replaces the yolks for a cleaner, simpler installation. one of our club sponsors is going to call je reel tomorrow and we will be measuring next week for a perfect fit!
this is the rear
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_972.htm
this is the front
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_970.htm
this is what i ll be doing. it replaces the yolks for a cleaner, simpler installation. one of our club sponsors is going to call je reel tomorrow and we will be measuring next week for a perfect fit!
#25
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yeah you can, but my local guy wants to call and find out what exactly they want. he said they will most likely want to measure to make sure it fits perfect. i don t want to spend all this money and screw it up. measure twice cut once as they say....
#26
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How hard is this to do on your own in a garage with simple hand tools? I've heard the stock nuts on the TC and Pinion are hard to get off...
P.S. I can already see the responses to my last comment coming...
P.S. I can already see the responses to my last comment coming...
Last edited by RebelJeeper; 05-30-2008 at 08:24 AM.
#28
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i don t know why on the price.
ok here is what i come to find out. all i have to do is tell him what lift i have and he can build a driveshaft out or 2" or 2 1/2" tube, my choice no additional cost. i can get the drive shaft for the front (1310 ujoints) for $395. jim from je reel wants pictures of my setup then so he can reference the skidplate issues.
as far as installation you need a impact gun and gear puller. the transfer case yolks are the easy ones. pop em off, pop the new yolk on and torque to 150 ft lbs. the axles are different. they are suppost to be reset on the pinoin bearing preload. i am going to do it, by counting the number of turns it takes to get the nut off, then the same count back on with a hair more to reseat the bearings. i am getting gears done soon so i am not going to pull my hair out for a month of driving to work.
ok here is what i come to find out. all i have to do is tell him what lift i have and he can build a driveshaft out or 2" or 2 1/2" tube, my choice no additional cost. i can get the drive shaft for the front (1310 ujoints) for $395. jim from je reel wants pictures of my setup then so he can reference the skidplate issues.
as far as installation you need a impact gun and gear puller. the transfer case yolks are the easy ones. pop em off, pop the new yolk on and torque to 150 ft lbs. the axles are different. they are suppost to be reset on the pinoin bearing preload. i am going to do it, by counting the number of turns it takes to get the nut off, then the same count back on with a hair more to reseat the bearings. i am getting gears done soon so i am not going to pull my hair out for a month of driving to work.
#29
I just received my 4" Rough Country Lift and am hesitating with putting it on untill I find out the specifics on the rear shaft. I call a place local and he wants 450.00 to install a double cardin shaft. 1310's front and 1330's rear. I am totally confused about what to do. I want something that is dependable. Any help making it as clear as mud, or clearer is appreciated.
#30
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from what i hear you should stay away from the 1330's. the 1310 and 1350 you can walk into any auto parts store on a sunday afternoon and they should have one 99% of the time. the 1330 are a little more rare. and from what i also i understand is the same as the 1310 in strength.