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je reel driveshafts? a few opinions wanted

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Old 05-28-2008, 04:51 AM
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Eddie snapped his 1310's in moab...

I run the 1350's with no problems. Did you talk to Jim?
Old 05-28-2008, 04:52 AM
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I went back and forth between 1310s and 1350s. 1310s are stronger than stock (from what I have seen/heard). It might not be a good idea to get the DS too much stronger as that puts the weak ling somewhere else in the drive line. I dont want it to fail easily, but IF there is going to be a failure, the DS is the place for it.
Old 05-28-2008, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Piginajeep
Eddie snapped his 1310's in moab...

I run the 1350's with no problems. Did you talk to Jim?
Was he running 37's though? Running 37's, I would prob step up to 1350's.
Old 05-28-2008, 06:08 AM
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How much stronger are the 1350s over the 1310s?
And, how much stronger are 1310s over stock?
Old 05-28-2008, 06:27 AM
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I also have a question about these.

I get the OE will work with the stock mounting but what is required to use the CV type and what is/are the advantages to using the CV style and what else do you need to hook up the CV style?
Old 05-28-2008, 07:05 AM
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just FYI, I merged two threads together
Old 05-28-2008, 03:24 PM
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ttt to get some answers please
Old 05-28-2008, 04:55 PM
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ok i did some more research today. i talked to the local driveshaft shop and they said 1310's should be fine. the 1350's really only need to be used with higher hp applications and hardcore rock crawling rigs. driveshafts and not designed to or will not support the weight of the jeep and will eventually break. he said dana 60's come with 1310 u joints. plus like stated above, running a 1350 u joint (in most cases) something else will fail first.... axles, tranfer case.... stuff like that. he said i should have no problem running the 1310's. he also said i definately should run the double cardan (cv joint) over the stock zeppo (another type of low maintenance cv joint). and i should also switch the yolks on the transfer case and axles. running adapters to adapters is going to be more to go wrong and more to come loose. he said ANYTHING over the stock shafts will be an improvement!

the real reason i am swithcing drive shafts is because i want to be able to walk into autozone or pep boys on a sunday afternoon and grab a u joint plus i want to solve my front driveshaft problems. so i think i am going to get the JE REEL shafts and call it a day.
Old 05-28-2008, 04:58 PM
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Thanks greasemonkey85 that answers alot for me anyway.

so what all do you need to buy to use the CV styles? do you by chance have a parts list that your going by?
Old 05-28-2008, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by greasemonkey85
ok i did some more research today. i talked to the local driveshaft shop and they said 1310's should be fine. the 1350's really only need to be used with higher hp applications and hardcore rock crawling rigs. driveshafts and not designed to or will not support the weight of the jeep and will eventually break. he said dana 60's come with 1310 u joints. plus like stated above, running a 1350 u joint (in most cases) something else will fail first.... axles, tranfer case.... stuff like that. he said i should have no problem running the 1310's. he also said i definately should run the double cardan (cv joint) over the stock zeppo (another type of low maintenance cv joint). and i should also switch the yolks on the transfer case and axles. running adapters to adapters is going to be more to go wrong and more to come loose. he said ANYTHING over the stock shafts will be an improvement!

the real reason i am swithcing drive shafts is because i want to be able to walk into autozone or pep boys on a sunday afternoon and grab a u joint plus i want to solve my front driveshaft problems. so i think i am going to get the JE REEL shafts and call it a day.
So is this a double cardan shaft?


J.E. Reel Rear 1310 OE Replacement Driveshaft for 07-08 Jeep® Wrangler JK 2 Door with 4-6" Lift
This allows you to use O.E. Flanges at the Transfer Case and the axle.
» Click here for details $349.99 #52301.961 » Add to cart


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