I've got a hot wheel
#1
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
I've got a hot wheel
Well, just got home and smelled a burning or hot smell. Put my hand down on my right wheel and it was HOT!! Went to the left side and I it was cool to the touch. I guess I have a stuck caliper. It's dark so I will check tomorrow. Anybody ever had this issue?
#2
Super Moderator
Do you have any smoke or burnt fluid smell? A wasted axle shaft seal will also make the wheel very hot and you'll likely have smoke/ fluid leaking.
#3
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
No smoke and I didn't see any fluid coming out of the axle tube. The axle was cool to the touch. The rotor was radiating heat.
I will check in the morning for sure!!
I will check in the morning for sure!!
#4
JK Super Freak
9 months later I could feel it dragging for about a week and then it locked up good. Wheel hot to the touch, pads smoking, rotor turned blue and warped. Replaced with a new MOPAR caliper and rotor, also replaced the lines with some Teraflex stainless lines. Added EBC yellow stuff pads.
After doing it twice I can tell you it isn't very difficult, and I highly recommend ordering the MOPAR caliper through Quadratec, as it was only about $15 more than the junky rebuilt one I got at O'reilly's. If you can wait for it to come in.
Probably could of gotten my rotor turned, but I just opted for the new one because I was frustrated.
The caliper I got from O'reilly's was covered in surface rust before the first week was up, and only lasted 9 months. Can not recommend going that route.
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#5
JK Jedi Master
I had a caliper pin so badly corroded it hung up the brake, making the wheel hot. O'Reilly had new pin set. Inexpensive part and easy replacement. Make sure to pick up caliper pin grease, too, if that is your problem.
#6
Super Moderator
I had where the inner pad on my R/F wheel had worn abnormally more than the other sides pad. So when I inspected the pads from the outside, I new I was due for a new set but they didn't look too bad. The inner pad wore so much that it popped out from between the rotor and caliper. Following that, the caliper piston pushed too far out when applying the brake and brake fluid came oozing out all over the tire and then no brakes.
I guess it's possible you could have a similar experience and your pad could have gotten jammed instead of falling out like mine.
The funny thing about my experience was that I knew I was due for new pads, and decided to get the Mopar BBK instead. The day I ordered the BBK, the following day is when I experienced the caliper piston pushed out, leaving me with no brakes. So I had to wait 5 days for the Mopar kit to arrive, since it seemed like a waste at that point to purchase stock replacements when I had a complete new brake system on the way and already paid for.
I guess it's possible you could have a similar experience and your pad could have gotten jammed instead of falling out like mine.
The funny thing about my experience was that I knew I was due for new pads, and decided to get the Mopar BBK instead. The day I ordered the BBK, the following day is when I experienced the caliper piston pushed out, leaving me with no brakes. So I had to wait 5 days for the Mopar kit to arrive, since it seemed like a waste at that point to purchase stock replacements when I had a complete new brake system on the way and already paid for.
Last edited by Rednroll; 08-14-2016 at 06:01 AM.
#7
My rear driver's side hung about a year ago. Replaced the caliper and pads with one I picked up at O'reilly's.
9 months later I could feel it dragging for about a week and then it locked up good. Wheel hot to the touch, pads smoking, rotor turned blue and warped. Replaced with a new MOPAR caliper and rotor, also replaced the lines with some Teraflex stainless lines. Added EBC yellow stuff pads.
After doing it twice I can tell you it isn't very difficult, and I highly recommend ordering the MOPAR caliper through Quadratec, as it was only about $15 more than the junky rebuilt one I got at O'reilly's. If you can wait for it to come in.
Probably could of gotten my rotor turned, but I just opted for the new one because I was frustrated.
The caliper I got from O'reilly's was covered in surface rust before the first week was up, and only lasted 9 months. Can not recommend going that route.
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum
9 months later I could feel it dragging for about a week and then it locked up good. Wheel hot to the touch, pads smoking, rotor turned blue and warped. Replaced with a new MOPAR caliper and rotor, also replaced the lines with some Teraflex stainless lines. Added EBC yellow stuff pads.
After doing it twice I can tell you it isn't very difficult, and I highly recommend ordering the MOPAR caliper through Quadratec, as it was only about $15 more than the junky rebuilt one I got at O'reilly's. If you can wait for it to come in.
Probably could of gotten my rotor turned, but I just opted for the new one because I was frustrated.
The caliper I got from O'reilly's was covered in surface rust before the first week was up, and only lasted 9 months. Can not recommend going that route.
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum
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#8
Super Moderator
My 1st guess at that would have been to replace the wheel speed sensor, since it's the signal from the speed sensor that controls the rear braking for the traction control.
#9
JK Super Freak
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#10
JK Enthusiast
Interesting, a couple weeks ago I replaced pads/rotors in the rear of my 07 JKU, just before I left to go on an off-roading trip. A day later I was experiencing the same type of hang up in my rear drivers side. I didn't have much time to problem solve so I replaced both the caliper and brake hose. I'll never know which one was the problem but everything has been fine since.
Last edited by bman; 08-15-2016 at 07:12 AM.